ROPS, a thread I did not want to post

[tstex]

Gentlemen,

In order to remove the leaking cylinders off my front end loader, I had to park my tractor on level ground that also has a metal roof cover. The ROPS would not allow me to do so, therefore I had to take the ROPS off.

Prior to removal, I looked inside my original M5400S OP's Manual and it did not have anything on the ROPS. Unfortunately, when I removed the overhead/inverted "U" bar, the brackets [that I was not aware] fell into the sq sleeves on both sides. '

Now that I'm in this [precarious] position, I'm seeking advice on how to retrieve, then reinstall the brackets and ROPS bar. I'm pretty sure now that I only had to remove one set of bolts and loosen the other one - I would conjecture that the ROPS bar then folds down. I did not have access to the internet at the time or I would have done so. The shed that I store it has an un level gravel/dirt floor, thus made the removal impossible. We were also looking at rain so I could not do outside unless it was covered.

I'm getting my cylinders back tomorrow and would like to also reinstall the ROPS. All driving of the tractor is on 100% flat ground at this time. Also does anyone have the torque spec's for retightening the bolts to the ROPS?

Again, I appreciate everyone's help and thank you in advance,
Tom

 

[dickfoster]

Magnetic retrieval maybe. If you don't have one just tape a good strong magnet to a stick. You'll have to fight the magnet sticking to the inside walls of the tube but you still should be able to shove it down there and the magnet should attract and drag the loose part up and out of the sleeve.
Question is how did you mange to do it on both sides?
I thought all ROPs folded, mine does but I guess it's not as standard as I thought it was.

 

[Ford850]

Put the magnet on a stick, as DF suggests. Then get a piece of PVC pipe slightly smaller than the square sleeves, long enough to reach the dropped part. Put the pipe down the sleeve and slide the magnet down inside the pipe to keep if from grabbing onto the sleeve/sides.

 

[tstex]

Thanks - the only good magnet I have is a bit too large to fit into the sleeves. I removed the bolts from both sides first, then when I removed, they both fell...at that time, I knew something went wrong. I was really surprised to find NOTHING in the op's manual about the ROPS.

I did not have a lot of time to investigate due to a wk call that was sprung on me, but w a flashlight, I did note that the brackets still have the nut on them. If that is welded on then I should be able to retrieve w a sturdy string. If the nuts are on there only due to being stuck on, then I have more of a challenge.

 

[dickfoster]

Thanks - the only good magnet I have is a bit too large to fit into the sleeves. I removed the bolts from both sides first, then when I removed, they both fell...at that time, I knew something went wrong. I was really surprised to find NOTHING in the op's manual about the ROPS.

I did not have a lot of time to investigate due to a wk call that was sprung on me, but w a flashlight, I did note that the brackets still have the nut on them. If that is welded on then I should be able to retrieve w a sturdy string. If the nuts are on there only due to being stuck on, then I have more of a challenge.

Then go to a hardware store and get yourself a neodymium magnet. They are not expensive but are small and strong. Handy to have around.

 

[tstex]

Thanks DF - will do. I cannot concur more on the handy nature of a good magnet.

I was working an electric fence line where the grass had really grown up thick, over 2 ft, when I noticed a small metal part I had in my top shirt pocket had fallen out when I was bending over [5-6 times to get plastic insulators off ground. So, I got my magnet on a wooden handle and went back to all the areas..there is nothing like the sound of that "click" when something metal is picked-up and sticks to the magnet.

I'm going back out early tomorrow morning so I'll get the magnet today - I'll post back w results - Thx, tstex

 

[dieselcrawler]

Having spent 15+ years as a residential electrician, fishing wires in walls and other blind spaces...

Wire... any kind of stiff wire, I would often use any scrap of solid 12AWG copper wire I stripped out of romex, but steel electric fence wire (heavy gauge) would work. Bending a 'J' hook on the ends, and a flashlight, does wonders. Patience and persistence pays off.

Good luck...

 

[tstex]

Hey Guys, wanted to give you an update.

I did buy the magnet [bc I know I will use it for something], but ended up using some old thick copper wire. The old farmer made his own telephone poles and strung copper wire in the air. I eventually took it all down, saved the old insulators and wire.

With the wire, I made a "J" hook and pulled out both brackets on the first try. They probably weigh at least 10lbs ea. It was a total "beech" getting the ROPS back on w a one man/one pair of hands. I still need to line-up the right side to get the bolt to go into the hole. If anyone has the procedure, I am ALL EARS.

Thanks again to all, I appreciated your help and feedback,
tstex

 

[Midniteoyl]

When you get it back together, drill a small hole through the ROPs and bracket and secure it with a screw or two to prevent it from dropping again in the future.

 

[bcp]

I still need to line-up the right side to get the bolt to go into the hole. If anyone has the procedure, I am ALL EARS.

I'll try to give you some ideas, but it is really difficult to grip something with your ears.


I'm not sure about your access and arrangement, but you could try these.

Use a long, smaller bolt or screw to reach through both holes. Some side pressure to engage the threads may let you rotate or lift the bracket into place. A stiff wire with a small hook may work the same, too. Make the hook small enough to go through the bracket's bolt hole. When aligned, tighten the other bolt to hold it in place.

Sometimes you can reach an enclosed area from farther away with a long rod, maybe with some bends to make it reach.

Bruce

 

[tstex]

When you get it back together, drill a small hole through the ROPs and bracket and secure it with a screw or two to prevent it from dropping again in the future.

Thanks Mid - The bracket inside is solid steel and about 2" thick...if anything, I could prob drill a hole underneath and run a long bolt. However, I am not sure of the ROPS folks would want me drilling into it and possibly weakening the potential integrity of the bar. Now that I know how it is structured/configured, I will not loosen pull out the bottom bolt unless I have the bracket secured first...thanks

 

[Sodo]

However, I am not sure of the ROPS folks would want me drilling into it and possibly weakening the potential integrity of the bar.

You can drill a small hole and not affect the strength one tiny bit. If you're not certain, post a pic where you intend to drill, lots of folks on this forum can tell by looking if it affects strength. If you have to do this ROPS removal thing again, get setup for it so theres not a problem. Make your tractor work for YOU, not you work for it.

There are other ways. Maybe you can just glue that thing on the inside with silicone to hold it in place from falling. Or drop a piece of wood (like a 2x4) into the hole so if the nut falls it doesn't go out of reach.

 

[tstex]

This is how it is configured:

The bottom part of the ROPS bar is an open/hollowed like sq [thick-perimeters], w the brackets that fit inside. The brackets has a threaded receptacle w hole that aligns into the bottom hole of the ROPS bar. The upper part of the bracket has a nut-like receptacle that is threaded too, which one the upper "U" ROPS bar is place over the brackets and the holes aligned, you screw the bolts thru the upper ROPS into the threaded holes of the bracket. Getting the upper ROPS "inverted 'U'" over the brackets is a "beech" for one person. You can barely get the upper ROPS bar onto the brackets, but it takes fitting it slightly on one side, hold the whole thing [heavy too] and take a small sledge hammer and hit the outer side inward to move it over the bracket. Then you have to keep banging/tapping the bracket until the aligns w the holes. The left side I did, but the right side still is not aligned properly. You also have to loosen the lower bolts that go thru the brackets so they can have some play in them to fit maneuver the upper U bar over the brackets.

I thought about securing the brackets first into the upper U bar, then try to push the brackets and U bar into the holes, but that meant more weight to hold and getting those lower holes to align might even be way more difficult. Either way, I am still going to have to keep moving the upper bar until everything aligns on the right side. Maybe I might pull the whole U bar and then grease it some to help with re-fitting it. Once you torque it to spec's [all 4 bolts have lock washers] it should not move regardless of grease or not.

Thoughts ?

 

[Sodo]

This is about all I could find to try to understand your description. Prob need better pics. Is this what your ROPS looks like?

 

[Midniteoyl]

Thanks Mid - The bracket inside is solid steel and about 2" thick...if anything, I could prob drill a hole underneath and run a long bolt. However, I am not sure of the ROPS folks would want me drilling into it and possibly weakening the potential integrity of the bar. Now that I know how it is structured/configured, I will not loosen pull out the bottom bolt unless I have the bracket secured first...thanks

Holes, if done correctly, will not effect the strength. Holes filled with a screw will be the same as if there was no hole at all.

 

[tstex]

Holes, if done correctly, will not effect the strength. Holes filled with a screw will be the same as if there was no hole at all.

:laughing: Yes, w a tight screw I agree...I am not sure if the "ROPS Correct Police" would like a hole in their product.

 

[tstex]

View attachment 482519

This is about all I could find to try to understand your description. Prob need better pics. Is this what your ROPS looks like?

Yes, but w out all the pieces in the middle - I'll take a pic next time I am out and post back - thanks