LandPlane,, My DIY

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I have two other tables like that, a 4X5 and a 5X5,,, I promise a pic of those cleared off,,,
when this project is complete!! :laughing:

Actually, the 5X5 is clear, except for two tool boxes,,,
the 4X5?? Well,, that one is so deep, it may never get cleared off,,, :confused2:

The Jet is a 9X16, I bought it 16 years ago,,, W E L L used, so I am guessing it is over 20 years old...
The saw easily ran 4,000 hours in the first 6 years I owned it.
I am talking motor on time,, not leaning on it thinking time!!

It cuts as accurately today as the day we first set it up.
I know how to change a blade,,, FAST!!

I think our blades are 135" long, and our saw can swivel to cut a 45 degree. So have you drawn up plans in CAD?

 

[CADplans]

I think our blades are 135" long, and our saw can swivel to cut a 45 degree. So have you drawn up plans in CAD?

My blades are 120", and yes, the saw will normally cut 45 degrees by rotating the vise jaws.
I built drop-in fixtures that cut 30, 45, or 60 degrees without moving the back jaw of the saw.

This build was not CAD designed, because I was using only available materials.
Also, the build was just relaxation time in the shop.
Frequently, I will just go out to the shop and build.

My "woodsplitter-press" was a "go out to the shop and build",,,

 

[jwmorris]

If you are going to add hoses and a hydraulic cylinder to the equation, why not make it useful for all of your implements instead on just one and at the same time simplify the build?

Even with the manual ratchet you are adding complexity and cost to your implement that cannot serve you on any other you might have.

Vs this as a top link.

 

[CADplans]

If you are going to add hoses and a hydraulic cylinder to the equation, why not make it useful for all of your implements instead on just one and at the same time simplify the build?
Even with the manual ratchet you are adding complexity and cost to your implement that cannot serve you on any other you might have.
Vs this as a top link.

I understand,,, but,,, there is no added cost, as I have not purchased ANYTHING other than the Caterpillar blades for this build.
The added time and effort is my shop relaxation time,, and, as I have explained before,,
I have found that the geometry of the 3 point hitch gets screwy when you shorten the top link.
When you shorten the top link too much, the three point hitch goes into a "collapse", reducing the digging capability of the attachment.

The three point hitch works best when the top link is adjusted to a "sweet spot",, not overly short, not overly long.
I have found this to be true with each of the 4 tractors that I have owned.

So, the extra adjuster gives me adjustment, and keeps the three point components at their optimal positions/lengths.

Maybe it is just me,,, but, for the 30 years I have been using my tractors, short top links have not been successful.

 

[jwmorris]

Maybe it is just me,,, but, for the 30 years I have been using my tractors, short top links have not been successful.

Sounds like you have it covered.

The "digging capability" of a land plane is limited by the skids though and all your doing with the top link is making it so they are in contact with the ground front to rear.

If you made the top link too short you would just be on the front edge of the skid with blades in the air and nothing happening.

If it were not for the need to pick it up you wouldn't even need a top link to drag it around and smooth.

 

[CADplans]

Yesterday, it took me every bit of 3 hours to move the 325 pound blade assembly into the frame, and get it tack welded into place.

If I had realized the massive weight of the blades, I might have opted for the lightweight snow blade replacements CAT offered.
The blades are in now, so it is all water over the dam,,, boy, I got my exercise, yesterday.

I was so tired, I took the pic without picking up all the tools,,, better than no pic, I guess.
As a comparison, I would bet that blade assembly weighs more than many complete commercial landplanes.
My goal was to end up with a VERY heavy, VERY rigid LP,,, I think I got there!! :thumbsup:
I watched too many videos on YouTube of LP's bouncing, and jumping until they filled with material.

Today, I finished the welding of the blade assembly to the slide plates, the blade assembly moves up and down freely, no binding.

The LP was setting there, I just could not resist,, I had to hook it to the tractor, and go for a spin.
The LP worked perfectly for probably 500 feet, then the blade assembly slid up about a half inch, the four Wilton clamps could not hold the blade assembly down.
It started to pour rain, so I did not get a pic of it operating,,, but, it did a GREAT job.
I only have a single blade assembly in the frame, but the results were perfect, before the blade moved.

I have, for 30 years, used;
A grader box
Three different rear blades (a John Deere 6' [the JD is a massive one from the 1960's], a Rhino 6' and a Bush Hog 7')
Various front end loaders (at least 5 different ones)
A homemade pasture drag that works OK on gravel
A 953 CAT with a 4 in 1 bucket
and
A 7' landscape rake with gauge wheels.

NONE of those tools flattened the driveway as nice as the landplane,,, on its first outing.

Next, I have to fab the brackets that will support the blade assembly at the proper height.
I will be doing a LOT of grading with the front blade assembly before I consider adding the rear blade.
That front blade assembly is 14 inches wide,, so it is kinda acting like dual blades by itself.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

That's great news. Would there ever be a reason to want to raise or lower the blade relative to the bottom skid edges? How far does it protrude from the bottom now?

 

[CADplans]

That's great news. Would there ever be a reason to want to raise or lower the blade relative to the bottom skid edges? How far does it protrude from the bottom now?

I am expecting that there will be situations where the grader blade could be:
1 1/2" below the runners
and as high as 2" higher than the runners.

We had 3" of rain in 30 minutes late last night, about 1/8 of a mile of my driveway was obliterated.

Today, I welded spacers in to hold the blade at 1/2" below the runners, rather than just trying out the LP,, it had to do real work.
My plan was to put the driveway back to what it was.

As I started, the LP moved gravel so easily, I ended up widening the driveway from 9' to about 12 feet.
The driveway has not been that nice in close to 20 years.

Pics later,,,

 

[jwmorris]

My goal was to end up with a VERY heavy, VERY rigid LP,,, I think I got there!!
...
The LP worked perfectly for probably 500 feet, then the blade assembly slid up about a half inch, the four Wilton clamps could not hold the blade assembly down.

Looks like a winner!

To lock adjustments in place just drill a hole through both the ridged and adjustable part and insert a bolt. I used slots for mine, set the skids on material the thickness I want them off the ground (did this on concrete) then Tighen them down. I had figured I would need a precise hole and a decent bolt with a shoulder but it hasn't moved so far and I have snagged a few things that stop the tractor smoothing paths back in the woods.

 

[CADplans]

Looks like a winner!

To lock adjustments in place just drill a hole through both the ridged and adjustable part and insert a bolt. I used slots for mine, set the skids on material the thickness I want them off the ground (did this on concrete) then Tighen them down. I had figured I would need a precise hole and a decent bolt with a shoulder but it hasn't moved so far and I have snagged a few things that stop the tractor smoothing paths back in the woods.

Yea, I am trying to decide how to anchor the blades, either the through bolts, or possibly a couple brackets, with various spacers.
A pair of brackets with spacers would put less stress on the bolt, so I am leaning that way.