LandPlane,, My DIY

   / LandPlane,, My DIY
  • Thread Starter
#41  
My 6X6 welding table is seldom this clean,,, so I had to post a pic of it,,,

Welding%20Table_zpsm0tmgocr.jpg


Today, I worked on the steel that will hold the front blades.
That is the reason I had to clean off the welding table. The blade assembly IS BIG!!
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY #42  
I decided to add a bit of angle adjust-ability to the top link connection.
I can use the mechanical link shown, or a hydraulic cylinder,,,

What does that do that the regular top link wouldn't do, if it were welded solid and didn't have all the extra parts?
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY
  • Thread Starter
#43  
What does that do that the regular top link wouldn't do, if it were welded solid and didn't have all the extra parts?


The mechanical link is easier to adjust than the top link, and can be exchanged with a hydraulic cylinder.

That extra joint gives me the ability to add a hydraulic cylinder, which I have.
If I do add a cylinder, I will use a 3 or 4 inch bore cylinder, so the hydraulic system of the tractor will fill the cylinder slowly.
Slow filling will give me fine control. Most hydraulic top link cylinders are 2 inch bore, which will react FAST,,,

And, I am pretty sure having the top link "centered" (half way extended) will result in the total three point hitch connection being more rigid.

When the top link is fully retracted, the geometry of the 3PH system never seems to work correctly, with my other attachments.
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY #44  
What does that do that the regular top link wouldn't do, if it were welded solid and didn't have all the extra parts?


I think it adds unnecessary complexity to the build and uses up a remote. Far better to have top and tilt on the tractor which can help with other implements without the need to fool with the hydraulics each time.

CADplans,
Flow restrictors can be installed in the top and tilt cylinder hoses to slow them down. I personally have not bothered with them but lots of people have them and like them.
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY #45  
Hot rolled steel varies enough in width, that the vise can not hold all the parts firmly.

Drop a strip of cardboard or wood between the moving jaw and parts. They will still be consistently spaced by the rear jaw and the strip will compress with the long ones and hold the shorter ones.

You can also run into the same issue in your saw. You can clamp them all together or if you have a welder handy tack the "drop" ends together so they don't move realitive to one another as they are fed.

Thanks for the tip. I have wrestled with this many times and never came up with a simple solution like that.

gg
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY #46  
... Flow restrictors can be installed in the top and tilt cylinder hoses to slow them down. I personally have not bothered with them but lots of people have them and like them.
$20 @ Surplus Center ... :thumbsup:
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY #47  
The mechanical link is easier to adjust than the top link, and can be exchanged with a hydraulic cylinder.

Why not weld it solid and add a hydraulic top link? Surly this isn't the only implement you have where it would be useful.
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY #49  
He's saying to use your hydraulic cylinder to replace your current top link, then all of your implements can be hydraulically adjusted instead of just the LP.

Nice build by the way, and thanks for the photos. I have a new version of a Jet saw at work that might be 1 size bigger, but I notice similarities in the arms that hold the sawblade in position.

Clearing off a table that size in my place would be a great accomplishment.
 
   / LandPlane,, My DIY
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Clearing off a table that size in my place would be a great accomplishment.

I have two other tables like that, a 4X5 and a 5X5,,, I promise a pic of those cleared off,,,
when this project is complete!! :laughing:

Actually, the 5X5 is clear, except for two tool boxes,,,
the 4X5?? Well,, that one is so deep, it may never get cleared off,,, :confused2:

The Jet is a 9X16, I bought it 16 years ago,,, W E L L used, so I am guessing it is over 20 years old...
The saw easily ran 4,000 hours in the first 6 years I owned it.
I am talking motor on time,, not leaning on it thinking time!! :D

It cuts as accurately today as the day we first set it up.
I know how to change a blade,,, FAST!! :rolleyes:
 
 
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