My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

3/8 would be fine. No reason to even use 1/2" on the front even you can stay 3/8 there also if you wanted.

I can't remember what options EA had when I ordered the grapple, other than AG or flat faced: I think everything is 1/2".

Really appreciate everyone's input. I've learned a lot in a very short period of time

Will be measuring for lengths of hoses and then place a parts order. Will also be needing to figure a mount for that bulkhead connection: or perhaps just kid of tie it up; note sure that I need a clean solution when I doubt that I'll be taking the FEL off (especially now with a good FEL).

 

[holeycow]

Grease all your electrical connectors that you can get at including the ground strap bolt.

Check all lines for abrasion points/routing. I put some heater hose around the airconditioner lines under the hood where they insisted on touching something sharp-ish. I pulled some wires out of the bottom corner of the cab tubing to have the loom guard contact an edge, rather than the small gauge wire insulation outside the guard. I put a few pieces of heavy tape here and there to protect some things...**** maybe.

Tiny details that can eliminate future issues.

Don't know about yours and I haven't seen it mentioned on here, but my 2013's windshield washer reservoir had a tendency to occasionally jump out of it's moorings (hitting the occasional bad bump). I fixed that by putting a piece of about 1" packing foam from something behind it to take up the jiggly space and snug it up. Been good for a few years now.

Thought I would mention that just for the heck of it and since you will be crawling all over your tractor pretty soon doing that install.

Oh, make sure the air intake system is sealed up proper. That one always worries me with any new motor.

You may have already done these things...sorry if I am preaching to the choir.


Anyway, good to hear your loader was replaced and everything is straightened out.

 

[DieselBound]

holeycow, thanks for the input. I'll review this thread for all such tips and look to apply them as I can: when I get my garage built I'll be able to go through things.

 

[DieselBound]

Doing some work the other day and encountered an odd situation. I was shifting into gear (lots of in and out of the tractor- safety switches are a pain!) and hit "M" and stepped on the travel pedal and nothing! I shifted into "H" (because the lever went into it fairly easily) and same thing. Poking around I decided to step on the reverse travel pedal- MOVEMENT! Step on the forward travel pedal and NOTHING. Can't recall what I did (perhaps flipping on/off the Linked Pedal switch?), but it started operating correctly again and I had no further issues.

Speaking of shifting, the shifting is really bad. I find that I'm constantly having to battle to get it to go in gear. It seems that altering the engine rpms helps.

Switched out the pallet forks for the bucket. More and more I can see how a front-mount camera is going to help. I believe that the replacement monitor is due to arrive later today: will have to wait as I need to get on with getting my woodshed built.

 

[DieselBound]

Looking over my bits for the hydraulics for the FEL 3rd function and was wondering whether I should utilize "adjustable" or standard fittings. Examples are for 90 degree elbows (which is what I need).

Standard:
2501-06-08 | 3/8" JIC Male x 1/2" NPTF Male Pipe 90°

Adjustable (# 9059-06-08):
9059 | SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x BSPP Adjustable 90º Elbow

Clearly, the adjustable one is quite a bit more expensive. Just wondering whether it's worth the added expense.

 

[Citydude]

I used adjustable. Especially useful in tight areas.

 

[DieselBound]

I used adjustable. Especially useful in tight areas.

Ack! With so many bits I lost track of what these were really doing. The elbow here would be used at the back end, the connection to the quick coupler. As such I'm thinking that it's moot to go adjustable because that elbow is going into the coupler and the coupler isn't fixed on the other side (going in to the female coupler): the lay of the hoses themselves will dictate how the elbow directs out from the coupler.

I was caught up thinking about the elbow that I'm attaching directly to the hydraulic top link, which ends up with no free movement/swivel as it anchors to the cylinder. Here an adjustable elbow makes sense (in order to fix/force the alignment).

 

[Citydude]

Ack! With so many bits I lost track of what these were really doing. The elbow here would be used at the back end, the connection to the quick coupler. As such I'm thinking that it's moot to go adjustable because that elbow is going into the coupler and the coupler isn't fixed on the other side (going in to the female coupler): the lay of the hoses themselves will dictate how the elbow directs out from the coupler.

I was caught up thinking about the elbow that I'm attaching directly to the hydraulic top link, which ends up with no free movement/swivel as it anchors to the cylinder. Here an adjustable elbow makes sense (in order to fix/force the alignment).

Yes, no need for the adjustable type on the couplers. I was thinking coming off your valve where alignment is paramount.

 

[holeycow]

On the hydraulic top link. Idk, but I just walked into Princess Auto in Grande Prairie, Alberta one day and in about 20minutes of humming and hawing I was out the door with a toplink, premade hoses, fittings, and bushings (cat1 to cat2 issues). Came home and in about 1/2 an hour I was picking up bales. I already had some good hardware to use for pins and a couple of hydraulic ends.

My problem is that I have to be really careful to lower and raise the 3pt with the toplink in the extended position or the outfit will "over centre" and be stuck in the down position. Not exactly stuck, but I would be sure to destroy something if I tried to raise the 3pt or extend the link.The cat1 link is a little too short in the closed position. It works really well except for this annoying detail.

You might wanna just go to a supplier and "build these things in your hands".

Anyway...

 

[bgruss75]

Speaking of shifting, the shifting is really bad. I find that I'm constantly having to battle to get it to go in gear. It seems that altering the engine rpms worked.

I had/have the same issue. Seems as it warms up to operating temperature it gets smoother to shift as well as the more hours I put on it. I'm up to mid 20 hours and things seem to be settling in.