Sicma vs Ansung tiller

[Catman8]

Thanks for the info guys, in the earlier post it was mentioned that the more tines you have the more hp is required, the one thing I did not take into account is that the same width in different models from the same manufacturer has different amount of tines, that's why I could not understand why a heavier tiller of the same width required more hp until I compared the different models and the amount of tines of the same manufacturer. Maybe this post will help others understand, because I missed that fact. I contacted a Ansung dealer here in Ca. and he suggested the ER062, he suggested the yjro62 might bog down my tractor, of course depending on soil conditions and depth, that was his suggestion.
What I still don't understand is the minimum hp should not be the same for all three models as they indicate if more tines = more hp.

Ansung
Yjc062 36 tines 533lb. 26-45 hp
ER062 42 tines 656lb. 26-45 hp
Yjr062 48 tines 703lb. 26-45 hp

 

[jeff9366]

It probably indicates that all the Ansung tillers are too heavy for sub-compact tractors or will not mount properly on sub-compact size Three Point Hitches. While sub-compact tractors often have Cat 1 size Three Point Hitches, sub-compact tractors often require smaller dimensioned implements than compact tractors.

(( This is the case with Moldboard Plows and Cultivators, in particular. ))

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Depends on rotor speed too, faster speed needs more hp, but a faster rotor speed does a better job too.

Lots of folks here keep saying, just go slower! I'm guessing they never heard of "soil structure", or knew you aren't suppose to pound your soil into dust and going too slow does just that!

SR

 

[Catman8]

It probably indicates that all the Ansung tillers are too heavy for sub-compact tractors or will not mount properly on sub-compact size Three Point Hitches. While sub-compact tractors often have Cat 1 size Three Point Hitches, sub-compact tractors often require smaller dimensioned implements than compact tractors.

(( This is often the case with Moldboard Plows and Cultivators, in particular. ))

JD told me that a 2032R was a compact tractor not a subcompact, do you think I will have mounting issues with these model tillers?

 

[Catman8]

Depends on rotor speed too, faster speed needs more hp, but a faster rotor speed does a better job too.

Lots of folks here keep saying, just go slower! I'm guessing they never heard of "soil structure", or knew you aren't suppose to pound your soil into dust and going too slow does just that!

SR

Sawyer Rob, what model of the Ansung tillers that I have listed do you feel would work best with a JD 2032R?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I've never run that model of JD, so I can't help you with that...

SR

 

[powerscol]

Measure you three point and let us know I believe you need 28" for cat one. All I can suggest is rent one first, even another brand of similar size and weight and see how it goes. Also check the JD site for matching 3pt implements for you tractor. Would be a good starting point as a comparison. What puzzles me is the ERO has a larger diameter rotor swing that the Yjr and a deeper tilling depth (1/2") so I would imagine would take more power. Seems strange. There are several venders here that sell the Ansung brand - perhaps they can help too.
Home has all the specifications on the models. Hope this helps

 

[Catman8]

I just got a call today that the truck driver loaded my JD and is on his way from MN. to CA. I can take delivery on Tuesday then I can measure the three point. I had another thought, do all manufacturers of tillers use the same gear ratio, and do all the tines have the same rpm's. I'm trying to figure out why the same size tiller from different manufacturers have different hp ratings.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

No they aren't all geared the same, even the length of the tines can be different!

Two of my tillers, have multi speed gear boxes....that's one sign of a REAL, HD tiller...

SR

 

[Catman8]

No they aren't all geared the same, even the length of the tines can be different!

Two of my tillers, have multi speed gear boxes....that's one sign of a REAL, HD tiller...

SR

So do you think that is why they have different hp ratings for the same size tiller.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Who knows what's in the mind of those engineers that designed them...

There's lots and LOT of things that can change the hp rating...

Did you call the maker and ask them? Wouldn't THEY be the ones to ask??

SR

 

[Catman8]

Who knows what's in the mind of those engineers that designed them...

There's lots and LOT of things that can change the hp rating...

Did you call the maker and ask them? Wouldn't THEY be the ones to ask??


SR

You have a good point, the manufacturer should be more knowledgeable than a salesman, but usually when you call the manufacturer there is no one who can take your call, and they reefer you to a sales distributor, been down that road once before but I will give it a try tomorrow. Thanks

 

[powerscol]

in some cases like Flail mowers, manufactures will state a certain HP to get a bigger(heavier) tractor. It does not take the HP to run it, but the bigger tractor to handle the weight. My Bobcat CT 235 is a heavy tractor for its hp - 3600 lbs vers 2800 for a different brand. The YJR 074 is supposed to need 50 hp (now down to 40) the big reason for this is it is heavy. My YJR weighs close to 1000 lbs, but I see its on a diet now at 919lbs but they did change the 3pt frame. I know it is back there, and it can lug my tractor down, but I just slow up and let things recover. With a gear drive tractor that can be a problem. So the manufacturers weigh on the side of caution.

I was told I could not run a full size baler with my tractor and that I had to go mini. Got to thinking about the old days and what farmers used back then, Tractors were heavier but about the same power. Bottom line - I run a full size Hesston 4550 baler without problem, even sub 450 rpm. I am just not fast but I get it done. One thing I do is test operate each unit before I buy - the exception is the new flail mower I have coming. However I did go lift a piece of equipment with the same weight and dimensions to check.

So HP requirements are relatively close and there so everyone is happy - can you run with less HP - probably, but not as fast as a bigger tractor would do. Given the size of you unit, try out some tillers first - even some of the lighter models are good such as from TCS and others - you can add weight to stabilize and many folks love them. Do a search You can trade up later. If you let us know where in California you are, others may be able to help better. There has got to be a rental place or Agg dealer somewhere near you. Check Craigslist too.

 

[Catman8]

I have no experiance tilling, so if I did rent a tiller I would have no idea if I was tilling correctly, as others have pointed out and from what I have read there is a correct way to till to preserve soil structure and not turn your soil to dust. So choosing an oversized tiller sounds like a bad thing to do. I think before i make a large purchase, I need to read up on how to till properly, then I would have a better understanding when I rent a unit. Thanks for the idea:drink:

 

[powerscol]

In doing your research contact your local county agg service. They can offer advice for you specific situation and soil type. What works for others may not work for you. With my Colorado clay, I work in a lot of composted horse poo, peat and fertilizer based on soil tests. My soil is different than yours, and I till until I am at 1/4 inch or less on the soil grains (others will go at this procedure). Each year it is getting better. It used to take 4 passes to loosen up, now only 2 with the second pass cross the first at full 8" debth. With my tiller I have the rear gate set tight against the springs, so it compresses after tilling, making things ready to plant.

Hope this helps.

 

[Catman8]

Thanks Powerscol, yes very helpful information, this is the whole point of a forum were people can share their knowledge and experiences with others.