Restoring old Implements back To there former glory
- Thread starter Greenrivercummins
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Greenrivercummins
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- Canmer, Kentucky
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- Farmall C, Farmall super C, Farmall H, Farmall Super M, Farmall 560, Farmall 656, Farmall 706, Farmall 766, JI Case 311-B, Ford 871, Ford 4000, Ford 8000, Ford 8600
Sorry to take so long to answer sixdogs but, I used Gloss white same as the front and rear Rim's and Grill to tie it all together. Here's my latest restore a 16' 8-Ton Kory wagon. My father housed tobacco on this wagon many years ago it belonged to a friend a few miles away. He put a new floor and runner's on it 5 years ago. But while hauling a load of tobacco a wheel bearing went out and it sat in a barn under a tarp till i bought it form him. I replaced and/or re-greased all the bearing's, sanded, primered, painted and built a new rear gate. It was well taken care of so it was a pretty easy task. All that remains is the Decals i picked up today to be finished and new flotation tire's.
Before
During with my other restored Wagon's
After
Before
During with my other restored Wagon's
After
sixdogs
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- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
Looks good and Kory is a nice wagon to restore. On the wheel bearings, I always replace all if needed, clean and regrease. Bearings are so cheap it isn't worth the time to clean the old ones. New or greased bearings make me feel better.
hghvolt
Member
Greenrivercummins, would you happen to know a source for IH plow parts? I am just starting to clean my 3 bottom 12" plow and need to replace the shares and land slides.
OP
Greenrivercummins
Bronze Member
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- Jul 26, 2015
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- 62
- Location
- Canmer, Kentucky
- Tractor
- Farmall C, Farmall super C, Farmall H, Farmall Super M, Farmall 560, Farmall 656, Farmall 706, Farmall 766, JI Case 311-B, Ford 871, Ford 4000, Ford 8000, Ford 8600
Yeah Sixdogs the previous owner replaced both inner and outer bearings, seals and race on the right side. But, when i was taking the wheels off to paint it they were really hard to spin. He had run the lock nut all the way up and also used regular grease. So i took them out cleaned and re-greased with bearing grease properly tightened them now they all spin perfect. The way it pulled coming home the day i bought it i was surprised they were that tight glad i didn't live but, a mile or two away could have ruined the new bearings or worse.
Hey hghvolt i haven't bought from this company yet myself but, they seem to have a lot of IH farm equipment part's Duffield Equipment Quality Farm Implements also i have trouble with there website when going to the next page. i have to scroll down to where it shows Pages "1 2 3 4" etc. just right click on the page you want and hit "open in a new tab" then close out the old page.
Hey hghvolt i haven't bought from this company yet myself but, they seem to have a lot of IH farm equipment part's Duffield Equipment Quality Farm Implements also i have trouble with there website when going to the next page. i have to scroll down to where it shows Pages "1 2 3 4" etc. just right click on the page you want and hit "open in a new tab" then close out the old page.
sixdogs
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- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
You can also try one of the mail order farm parts places. Sloan Equipment is one, Shoup another and they have what you want. Most farm stores like Rural King will order this type of part and not charge for shipping to the store. Get your part and model numbers correct before you even start looking. These are easy parts to find.
redobbin
Bronze Member
What method(s) do you use to get rid of large scale surface rust?
sixdogs
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- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
Photos would help on this. If I had a disc harrow frame with large flaky rust I would probably blow off what I could with a pressure washer and hit it a little it with a grinder with a wire wheel on it. Nothing extensive. Wear goggles or sunglasses because those little wires in the wheel fly off. Then if it looked presentable with no flaking or loose rust left I would prime it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. (Before the primer, scrub it with a wheel brush and soapy water with dishwashing detergent. Scrub good and let dry. this gets all the dust off.)
Wait a half hour after primer if it's warmer weather and then give it a light, misty finish coat of OEM--NOT FARM STORE--paint. In another hour give it a heavier coat of finish that should cover everything. Clean your equipment, crack open a brew and admire your handiwork. This is for an agricultural quality paint job and not a showroom quality that you want to store in a pretty environment and never use.
I have done numerous paint and rebuild threads--do a search. You need to thin your paint--I use acetone--plus get a good Harbor Freight HVLP gravity spray gun. Cheap and excellent quality. Search for those threads. Acetone is very flammable and I spray outside on calm days. Don't use paint "hardener' unless you have an external supplied air system. Hardeners (isocyanates) can cook your lungs with only one incorrect use.
Post pics when your done.
daugen
Epic Contributor
The last hour has been spent happily looking at all your pictures. And enjoying the discussion.
Some wonderful work being done here.
First I could not take my eyes off that gorgeous Ford plow. But then the International red one was like farm art.
And if the gleam of JD green doesn't say heartland to you...
I'll dig for some pics, have done this for awhile on small equipment, just a play farmer, not a real one like many of you on this thread.
Particularly those whose plowshares gleam from active use.
Personally, I just hate rust. Don't want termites in my wood or rust on my metal.
Am working on a rather rare Gravely wing mower right now. Thread in the Gravely/Ariens section.
Still unbolting and nowhere near refinishing. First I have to learn how to weld. In no rush, have two of these wing mowers, and will do
each one in my spare time. Which I now have plenty of, but my barn isn't heated, except for the wood shop, so when it gets below 50, with my arthritis, I have to wait. And for sure, outside painting, have screwed up way too many paint jobs when the air was 70 and the steel was 55 due to overnight temps. And you know what happens when drying paint is too cold...so now I IR temp gun all metal before I paint.
recent projects included a 1968 IH CC 125. And we could have a whole thread on the different ways to paint wheels. I'm an old blue tape guy
but I know others have different methods that work too. And decal issues apply to everyone. Do you really need to replace ALL of them?...
Not sure I have anything big enough to qualify here, I think the OP was talking real farm implements.
Some wonderful work being done here.
First I could not take my eyes off that gorgeous Ford plow. But then the International red one was like farm art.
And if the gleam of JD green doesn't say heartland to you...
I'll dig for some pics, have done this for awhile on small equipment, just a play farmer, not a real one like many of you on this thread.
Particularly those whose plowshares gleam from active use.
Personally, I just hate rust. Don't want termites in my wood or rust on my metal.
Am working on a rather rare Gravely wing mower right now. Thread in the Gravely/Ariens section.
Still unbolting and nowhere near refinishing. First I have to learn how to weld. In no rush, have two of these wing mowers, and will do
each one in my spare time. Which I now have plenty of, but my barn isn't heated, except for the wood shop, so when it gets below 50, with my arthritis, I have to wait. And for sure, outside painting, have screwed up way too many paint jobs when the air was 70 and the steel was 55 due to overnight temps. And you know what happens when drying paint is too cold...so now I IR temp gun all metal before I paint.
recent projects included a 1968 IH CC 125. And we could have a whole thread on the different ways to paint wheels. I'm an old blue tape guy
but I know others have different methods that work too. And decal issues apply to everyone. Do you really need to replace ALL of them?...
Not sure I have anything big enough to qualify here, I think the OP was talking real farm implements.
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sixdogs
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- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
daugen--two comments from me. On painting wheels, I no longer mask them. It takes too long and doesn't work anyway. Instead, I use a HVLP Harbor Freight gravity sprayer and carefully paint the wheel. It will leave the edge of the rim unpainted. I paint that with a brush and no one has ever known the difference. if a whisker of overspray gets on the tires, remove with solvent. If you get any more than a very minor wisp of spray on the tires, you are doing it wrong.
On painting in the cold, the real answer is don't do it. But, I once had to paint at 40 degrees. What I learned was that the PAINT has to be the same temp as what you are painting to make it work. I thinned with acetone--a lot if I recall and sprayed away. It wasn't the best job ever but it wasn't bad either. As well, I did not use cr@p farm store paint but rather quality OEM Kubota acrylic enamel paint. No one ever knew by looking that I painted the items--big wheels and weights--that cold.
On painting in the cold, the real answer is don't do it. But, I once had to paint at 40 degrees. What I learned was that the PAINT has to be the same temp as what you are painting to make it work. I thinned with acetone--a lot if I recall and sprayed away. It wasn't the best job ever but it wasn't bad either. As well, I did not use cr@p farm store paint but rather quality OEM Kubota acrylic enamel paint. No one ever knew by looking that I painted the items--big wheels and weights--that cold.
