Here are some thoughts on Lance's no start situation and diagnosis of his Mahindra:
I will try to make this brief (those that know me, know how much that hurts me

)
While the video is not entirely clear on exactly how Lance got the starter solenoid to pull up, I got the impression that he ran that black wire directly from the starter terminal on the key switch to the starter solenoid. Unless it was designed to work that way AND I am quite certain it was not, I can see some potential problem ahead.
The starter solenoids of tractors of this size will draw a fair amount of current themselves. Maybe close to 20 amps or so. I doubt the keyswitch contacts were rated for that. I could be wrong, and I don't have his tractors schematic at hand to confirm, but this is what I think.
I think that his tractor likely has a starter relay that is supposed to supply the current to the starter solenoid and have contacts rated to support this load. The starter relay coil would be energized by the key switch thru the two safety switches on the PTO and the Range selector which he wired around that did not solve his problem.
Since I believe (but cannot prove without having specs and a schematic) that the key switch contacts are not rated to deliver the current the starter solenoid will draw through repeated applications, I believe that Lance will continue to have no start problems because of burned contacts on the key switch.
I also believe that while it is up to individual to decide if they wish to keep the safety switches intact, I will point out that one of our members about a year ago was severely injured when he started his tractor with a screwdriver and the tractor ran over him and hit a wall.
Who among us when we are tired hasn't overlooked a safety procedure (like double checking the tractor is not in gear and the brake is set) when we do something like start the tractor while standing on the ground or with a screwdriver. These things are fine to do for diagnostics, and we all do them, but you must realize you are taking a risk, and to double, and even triple check the parameters you are overriding.
Just like when someone hands you an "empty" firearm that they have checked. It is still a good idea for you to check it yourself before you pull the trigger. And even then keep the muzzle in a safe direction so that nothing would be destroyed if it did fire.
There is no substitute for using the scientific method when troubleshooting and having the proper equipment (a voltmeter and the wiring diagram of the tractor) in this case. And finding the actual fault and rectifying it instead of a workaround hack. Or using the field expediant to get you going, then take the time later to actually find the fault the proper way.
Those are my thoughts, and I hope I did not get too verbose or preachy, and maybe it will help someone else.
James in Branson,
been fixing broken crap for over 50 years. 