Selling House and Failed Septic Inspection

[TheMan419]

Actually, I see now that teejk's exit pipe is way down at 9' below grade (probably because he has a full basement with some plumbing down there?), which would put the tank down quite low. Not sure about the leeching bed, though. He may have an effluent pump tank like I do, in order to get the effluent up to a more reasonable level. In any case, there is no way I would dig my leeching bed ditches down to 12 ft, and a deep septic bed is not really recommended.

Yeah the one we had installed the bed was at most a couple feet below grade. Thankfully we had a part of the yard that was down hill from where the pipe exited the house. Gravity is your friend.

 

[teejk]

Actually, I see now that teejk's exit pipe is way down at 9' below grade (probably because he has a full basement with some plumbing down there?), which would put the tank down quite low. Not sure about the leeching bed, though. He may have an effluent pump tank like I do, in order to get the effluent up to a more reasonable level. In any case, there is no way I would dig my leeching bed ditches down to 12 ft, and a deep septic bed is not really recommended.

We indeed have a full basement here and it's plumbed for future toilet/lav/bar. And bottom of the tank is quite low. I think the pump is now more the rule than the exception. That also entails an alarm btw to alert for pump failure. Fortunately if it ever failed anything in the pump chamber is clear liquid and there is never much in it because the pump operates on a float switch much like a basement sump pump.

 

[roadhunter]

20 feet deep?! The top of my tank is MAYBE 1 ft. below the surface - what gives with the 20 feet?

Must not be a gravity fed system and the tank is not buried below frost line. I'm not familiar with those types of setups. If this was a normal gravity fed system and the lines coming out of the tank were at 12 ft deep then the bottom of the tank would be 18 ft or so depending on the tank.

For the depth of lines you described that is an enormous amount of dirt work which seems makes you total cost of $6,500 seem really cheap. A 100 ft long trench 12 ft deep takes some serious equipment and time, especially if you had to terrace the trench to keep it from caving in.

 

[DK35vince]

My lines are around 2ft deep and top of tanks is maybe 1ft or less like yours.

My sewage lines are gravity feed with full basement. Pipes run under the basement floor. The tanks are downhill from the house.
Only pump is in the second tank pumps the liquids only uphill to the sand mound (where it had to go due to perk test)
My water lines are at 42" deep due to frost line, but septic lines don't need to be. Not laying full of water, so no need. They are only 1 1/2 to 2 feet deep.

 

[teejk]

Must not be a gravity fed system and the tank is not buried below frost line. I'm not familiar with those types of setups. If this was a normal gravity fed system and the lines coming out of the tank were at 12 ft deep then the bottom of the tank would be 18 ft or so depending on the tank.

For the depth of lines you described that is an enormous amount of dirt work which seems makes you total cost of $6,500 seem really cheap. A 100 ft long trench 12 ft deep takes some serious equipment and time, especially if you had to terrace the trench to keep it from caving in.

As I recall the field is nowhere near that deep and relies on the pump to go up and out.

 

[Travelover]

OP here. So, my crooked real estate agent, who has from day one assured me that if the septic test failed, he'd negotiate a cost split with the buyer, now says, "tough luck, you have to pay the full cost, or you can't transfer the title." Shame on me for even slightly trusting him. Next step is to meet with the soil guy from the county and see how expensive a system I'm stuck buying for the next guy.

 

[TheMan419]

OP here. So, my crooked real estate agent, who has from day one assured me that if the septic test failed, he'd negotiate a cost split with the buyer, now says, "tough luck, you have to pay the full cost, or you can't transfer the title." Shame on me for even slightly trusting him. Next step is to meet with the soil guy from the county and see how expensive a system I'm stuck buying for the next guy.

Do you know if an offer to split the cost has even been made? At least the way the contracts are written here, if such an item came up on the inspection either side would have the right to walk from the contract. That means you have room to negotiate. The buyer could simply stand their ground and say no. However you would have the right to pull the plug on the sales contract. Depending on how much the folks want the house that is leverage.

When we sold the buyers saw the house at 3, and we had an offer from them by 5 p.m. So we knew they wanted the house badly. So we countered their offer at darn near full price and they accepted.

We knew there were things in the house they would ask us to fix, they did and we said no. None of it was major but they took the house as is.

Not saying someone would do that with a septic, but it seems like you might need a new agent.... or at least some explanation of why we went from a cost split to tough luck.

 

[Travelover]

Do you know if an offer to split the cost has even been made? At least the way the contracts are written here, if such an item came up on the inspection either side would have the right to walk from the contract. That means you have room to negotiate. The buyer could simply stand their ground and say no. However you would have the right to pull the plug on the sales contract. Depending on how much the folks want the house that is leverage.

When we sold the buyers saw the house at 3, and we had an offer from them by 5 p.m. So we knew they wanted the house badly. So we countered their offer at darn near full price and they accepted.

We knew there were things in the house they would ask us to fix, they did and we said no. None of it was major but they took the house as is.

Not saying someone would do that with a septic, but it seems like you might need a new agent.... or at least some explanation of why we went from a cost split to tough luck.

What you have said is true, but in my case I don't have the leverage. If I walk, I still have to fix it, then wait until spring to get a decent price for it, with a torn up yard. I agree that I need a new agent, but I can't switch horses at this point in the stream.

My disappointment with the agent is his assurance he could negotiate a split, then his 180 degree spin the day after the inspection. I feel he was disingenuous.

 

[check]

What you have said is true, but in my case I don't have the leverage. If I walk, I still have to fix it, then wait until spring to get a decent price for it, with a torn up yard. I agree that I need a new agent, but I can't switch horses at this point in the stream. My disappointment with the agent is his assurance he could negotiate a split, then his 180 degree spin the day after the inspection. I feel he was disingenuous.

And of course the agent did NOT give that assurance in writing.

 

[Travelover]

And of course the agent did NOT give that assurance in writing.

No, I'm sure he would say it is what is called "puffing" in the sales business, which means that if you catch me in a lie, I was "puffing".