Selling House and Failed Septic Inspection

[hawkeye08]

If you have conventional system, it sounds like you need some new drain-field lines, we put our drainfield in with enough space between the lines to put new ones when needed.

 

[Weedy Fields]

We had issues with our conventional system a few years ago. Got the name of a local guy with a backhoe who worked on septic systems "under the table". Turns out the guy is the local "gravedigger".
He add about 75 ft to the length of our field. No problems since.
Now days they are very strict on septic systems around here. They even map them out very accurately.
No more "perc" tests.
They do soil analysis.
At our new place we didn't make it for a conventional, we had to go to a "at grade" system, in between a conventional and mound system.

 

[Travelover]

OP here. I appreciate all the tips. Since the county approves the system, I kind of have to dance to their tune, but hiring an independent soil analyst sounds right. There is a good possibility the soil is marginal for percolation, but I want to avoid an engineered field if I can.

 

[Ford850]

We had issues with our conventional system a few years ago. Got the name of a local guy with a backhoe who worked on septic systems "under the table". Turns out the guy is the local "gravedigger".
He add about 75 ft to the length of our field. No problems since.
Now days they are very strict on septic systems around here. They even map them out very accurately.
No more "perc" tests.
They do soil analysis.
At our new place we didn't make it for a conventional, we had to go to a "at grade" system, in between a conventional and mound system.

I'd never thought of that as an option. If you have the space to do that, it sure seems like the easiest solution. I wonder if it is 'legal' in some of those stricter areas.

 

[dmccarty]

OP here. I appreciate all the tips. Since the county approves the system, I kind of have to dance to their tune, but hiring an independent soil analyst sounds right. There is a good possibility the soil is marginal for percolation, but I want to avoid an engineered field if I can.

The county might approve or disapprove but the state might be able to over rule the county's decision. Find out the rules and the process. The two Soil Scientists involved with our situation could only do so much regarding the county inspector since said inspector could cause them lots of problems. The Soil Scientists could not come right out and say that the inspector was incompetent and ignorant. I could say it, but chose not too, and let the state inspector tell the county inspector, in a polite way, that the county inspector did not know what he was doing.

Later,
Dan

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I'm selling my house and have a purchase agreement contingent on passing appraisal, home and septic inspections. Everything passed until today when it failed the septic inspection, which is required by the county to pass the title. The house is 50 years old and I've lived here for 27 years with just two people maximum using the system. I'm kind of shocked, as the system has never given any issues at all.

My question is what my options are. The inspector said it probably means a new drain field next to the old one at about $10K, maybe more if the ground does not perk well enough. I'm in SE Michigan, Wayne County.

Anyone have experience along these lines?

I'm a real estate broker licensed in Minnesota.

Ask what failed? It could be you need to add a tile field, or that the septic tank itself is deemed to old, or it could be you lack proper electrical service to a lift pump. Regardless, buyers assume a functioning septic system when they write a purchase agreement.

Pick up the phone and get a septic guy to inspect your home and get three contractor estimates.

Since it is winter, and if your ground is frozen, you will not be able to sort out a septic system without heat blankets and lots of propane. As such, your representation needs to discuss with your counter-party's representation how to proceed.

Broker on broker discussions would typically be it'll cost X number of dollars to correct the septic problem but the problem cannot be addressed until long after the closing date.

Options:

1) The seller only or the seller and buyer can agree to some sort of equitable split of shouldering the cost to sort out the septic system.

a) The seller and buyer agree to fix the specific system right now at greater cost than waiting until spring.

b) The seller and buyer can agree to go forward with the closing while setting aside money in a trust to fix the septic system in the spring.

c) The seller can agree to put money toward sorting out the septic system that is transfer at the closing removing the cloud of a trust hovering over the title.

This needs to be discussed after you know (1) what needs to be done and (2) how much it will cost. If an equitable deal on the septic system cannot be settled upon, the seller and the buyer should cancel the purchase agreement.

 

[Travelover]

I'm a real estate broker licensed in Minnesota.

Ask what failed? It could be you need to add a tile field, or that the septic tank itself is deemed to old, or it could be you lack proper electrical service to a lift pump. Regardless, buyers assume a functioning septic system when they write a purchase agreement.

The septic field was deemed to be inadequate in its ability to peculate the septic fluid, for a 4 bedroom house. It has worked fine for two occupants.

Pick up the phone and get a septic guy to inspect your home and get three contractor estimates.

I need to meet with the county and see what their soil guy allows for a fix based on testing my lot. I hope to install a new field next to the old one, but only if the soil allows for it.

Since it is winter, and if your ground is frozen, you will not be able to sort out a septic system without heat blankets and lots of propane. As such, your representation needs to discuss with your counter-party's representation how to proceed.

We've had a mild November - it was almost 60 degrees yesterday, so ground is not frozen. I recognize that time is of the essence.

Broker on broker discussions would typically be it'll cost X number of dollars to correct the septic problem but the problem cannot be addressed until long after the closing date.

Can't transfer the title without resolution of the septic issue per county law.

Options:

1) The seller only or the seller and buyer can agree to some sort of equitable split of shouldering the cost to sort out the septic system.

a) The seller and buyer agree to fix the specific system right now at greater cost than waiting until spring.

b) The seller and buyer can agree to go forward with the closing while setting aside money in a trust to fix the septic system in the spring.

c) The seller can agree to put money toward sorting out the septic system that is transfer at the closing removing the cloud of a trust hovering over the title.

This needs to be discussed after you know (1) what needs to be done and (2) how much it will cost. If an equitable deal on the septic system cannot be settled upon, the seller and the buyer should cancel the purchase agreement.

I agree. Right now the cost is totally up in the air. I wonder if I should cover the potential field with straw bales.

 

[TractorGuy]

I had a new drain field installed beside the old one a couple of years back. Only cost about $2500.

Mine was restricted by tree roots from a Crepe Myrtle my wife and sister planted 10 feet from the septic tank. Could not get the repair folks to dig out the obstructed area and fix it. too bad I didn't have my backhoe back then but at least my cost wasn't 10 grand.

I have a separate system for my washing machine. It was the previous system my mobile home was on before building the house. They required a separate system for the washer but allowed me to use that old system for that.

 

[knukey]

Probably failed the "dye" test meaning you are getting some liquid coming to the surface that disappears quickly such that you may never have noticed it. Call your septic guy and have him check it out. Might be something as simple as a failed baffle. Around here it has become a science but the pumpers have been forced to learn and know everything there is to know (my septic guy is actually in my phone's contact list). Realize that the banks are going to err on the side of the buyer and even a minor problem will get flagged as a major problem...just the way things work today. Now assuming there is indeed a problem, if you have the room you might be looking at a divertible switch box that will use your existing tank but create a new field. Shut off the old field, use the new field. Then about every other pumping or so switch them...the old field should have had time to rest and you let the new one recover.

What this guy said! Good stuff.

 

[CCWKen]

I'm wondering about my own drain field now. I put the system in myself over 20 years ago. The only assistance was when the tank delivery guy dropped the tank right into the hole I dug. Some of the trees that were way outside the 20' drip-line clearance area are much larger now. But I guess I'm fortunate that where I am all I'd have to do is rent a backhoe for a day, extend the tank-to-field pipe and move the field. I'd guess about $400 in materials with stone being the biggest expense; plus the tractor rental. No permits or inspections. God, I love this place.

My current field is a 40' x 40' closed H pattern and I've had as many as eight family members spending a long weekend and washing clothes. Never had a problem. (Knock on wood.)