Radiator Repair Question

[coosa]

Nice find, Carey. That 2210D doesn't look like mine at all. That filter looks like it would come out easily; the side panel is much different than mine too.

I got the radiator back home in time to start on it for a few minutes. I ran into a question I oughta ask someone before finishing it. The radiator sits on 2 round pillars made out of a rubber like material. The 2 bolts from the bottom go thru the pillars and into the bottom bracket of the radiator. Is there any general rule to follow on how tight they should be? They have to be tight enough to stay in there during all the vibration of working, but it looks like the rubber pillars compress as I tighten the bolts and the bolts could go right thru the bottom of the radiator if I tighten too much. Any guidelines on how tight they should be? Thanks!

 

[winston1]

Called a radiator shock absorber. RAD. SHOCK ABSORBER_: Yanmar Tractor Parts Looked through a couple of manuals but could find no torque value. Just my 2 cents which is not worth much, just goodntight. There are suppose to be double nuts underneath to prevent them from coming loose.

 

[coosa]

Called a radiator shock absorber. RAD. SHOCK ABSORBER_: Yanmar Tractor Parts Looked through a couple of manuals but could find no torque value. Just my 2 cents which is not worth much, just goodntight. There are suppose to be double nuts underneath to prevent them from coming loose.

Winston, thanks for looking this up for me! I'm not sure what you mean by double nuts underneath. Here is a pic I just made of one side:


You can see that the lock washer is not yet tight and the end of the bolt is almost touching the radiator already. I took the radiator off on my carport, so I'm sure there was nothing else on there. If I tighten it down much more, that bolt is gonna be up against the radiator at the least, and maybe go thru it.

I didn't realize how close it already was until I just took the picture. I'm thinking maybe put a stack of washers on the underside of the bolt to essentially make it shorter, and then put a nylon lock nut on the top to keep it from working loose. Is something like that what you were talking about? I don't understand how this didn't already cause a problem from the factory; I suspect I'm misunderstanding something.

 

[Neat 1500]

The longer filters give a little more media. Most likely better filtration than the smaller filters with a little less media

Yeah I like the bigger filter's too, but was just indicating that they were longer compared to the Sakura. I haven't used anything else on mine so can't comment on any others.

 

[winston1]

Winston, thanks for looking this up for me! I'm not sure what you mean by double nuts underneath. Here is a pic I just made of one side:


You can see that the lock washer is not yet tight and the end of the bolt is almost touching the radiator already. I took the radiator off on my carport, so I'm sure there was nothing else on there. If I tighten it down much more, that bolt is gonna be up against the radiator at the least, and maybe go thru it.

I didn't realize how close it already was until I just took the picture. I'm thinking maybe put a stack of washers on the underside of the bolt to essentially make it shorter, and then put a nylon lock nut on the top to keep it from working loose. Is something like that what you were talking about? I don't understand how this didn't already cause a problem from the factory; I suspect I'm misunderstanding something.

Don't know if I can copy over Hoye's part drawings or not. COOLING_SYSTEM: Yanmar Tractor Parts #26 is suppose to be a stud, #32 are double nuts to lock the tension on the hold down. You shouldn't be using a cap screw.

 

[coosa]

Thanks again, Winston. And thanks for the link; I didn't know Hoye had detailed drawings like that. I guess I need to spend some time on their site.

I guess this proves I have an aftermarket radiator. Maybe that could be part of the reason it is running hotter than some of you think it should? I'll figure out some way to make it tighten down without putting a hole through it. A good day to all!

 

[winston1]

We are not understanding each other. You just need a stud bolt in place of the cap screw you now have. Then you will be able to tighten it down and lock it with the double nuts.

 

[careyo63]

I knew they didn't look right so I checked my Cooling Sys. Dia. and Hoyes Ym2000 Dia. and went out and checked mine. Your bolts are upside down. Studs or threads pointing down. Tighten the first nut then the 2nd. will lock it. With those studs sticking up that radiator may stand a chance of not getting damaged. May need to use shorter bolts. If you can't get them turned around. Washer it up more to make sure the bot doesn't hit the Radiator.?

 

[coosa]

We are not understanding each other. You just need a stud bolt in place of the cap screw you now have. Then you will be able to tighten it down and lock it with the double nuts.

Thanks for looking out for me. It didn't come with a stud bolt and double nuts; this is they way it came from Fredricks. You think I should go look the hardware to rig it up that way it is in the drawing?

I started on the job, took a break, and checked the board and found your's a Carey's posts. I already have it together and did it by adding 2 washers and another lock washer in between and got it to tighten down much better than it was before. I think this will hold as well as following the original system, but I could be missing something. Here is the way the bottom looks now:



The lock washers appear tight, and there is plenty of clearance above.

 

[careyo63]

You should be good with the extra washers and you understand what we are saying. You just want t make sure that the bolts does not hit the Radiator as best you can.