Ballast box vs Grandpa's implement for added weight

[plowhog]

I want to get some weight on the back of a Kubota L6060 to get full use out of the grapple and loader bucket. I was advised to get 1,200 lbs on the rear of the tractor for counterbalance, and to help keep too much weight off the front axle.

Loading the rear tires increases weight, but not weight behind the rear axle. So loaded tires won't help take weight off the front. So I need something on the 3pt hitch. There are some ancient "grandpa implements" scattered around the property, such as old rusting tillers or harrow. I could use these for ballast, but they are *large* and might snag up on things like stumps and other obstacles.

Is a ballast box the best solution for weight due to compact size compared to using an implement? And is there a source for a good ballast box that would mate up behind the L6060 cab model?

 

[Shaneard]

I would load the rears then hook to a box blade or something similar. The weight your talking about adding will have to go through a lot of items to reach the ground, axle bearings, lift arms etc, etc. By adding fluid the weight is almost directly on the ground and doesn't have to be transferred through all that other stuff, yeah it does add more weight to bearings etc. but not like hanging it off the back.

 

[LD1]

1200# would be a MINIMUM to put back there. Especially if the tires arent loaded.

~2000# would be alot better. But it depends on how far back you put it.

As to a ballast box.......I cant say that I have seen many that are big enough for this sized tractor. Most people just make their own. Do the math, build a box out of plywood, Insert (or build) one of them 3PH trailer mover type attachments.....and fill with concrete. a 2' wide, 2' long, 3' high box is ~1800#

Concrete is relatively cheap, but once done......its just a dead weight. Most people opt to spend money on a useful attachment. Such as a heavy rear tiller, box blade, bushhog, etc. And just leave that on. My MX5100, which is a little smaller/lighter than your L6060, gets the 1620# rotary cutter put on the back if I have to do any heavy lifting.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

2klbs sounds like a much better weight depending on the distance behind the lift pins. A long rotary cutter could be lighter and be more effective than a box blade. That said, a ballast box or homemade weight is ideal because it cant be built to the weight needed and they are very compact. I have an 1800lb brushhog but its worthless as ballast in tight quarters as it hangs so far out to the sides and the rear. I also have a concrete weight that is narrower than the inside of my rear tires and I can't turn sharp enough without brakes to put it into the wall when I am driving beside one. If you are a bit handy, a ballast box is an easy DIY project if you enjoy that type of stuff. If you have implements on hand, I would start by trying them out to see what works best for you. there might be something that works very well that you already have.

 

[jeff9366]

Ballast boxes are normally carried on SCUTS, where garage space is often limited. Many SCUTS are used primarily for turf mowing, secondarily for landscaping with the FEL and not much else. Hence, a ballast box is ample.

Most buying CUT tractors as heavy and powerful as an L6060 will be purchasing multiple 72" implements, sometimes Cat 1, sometimes Cat 2. I would start shopping now. Fall/winter is the most advantageous time to negotiate used implement prices.

I typically us a 60"/700 pound Cultipacker as everyday, compact ballast behind my L3560. When I have a Box Blade Rotary Cutter or Disc Harrow mounted as ballast they protrude considerably, but protrusion improves their effect as ballast. I have been operating CUTS for years and find my perceptions automatically compensate for protruding implements.

( A 72" Cultipacker is typically 850 pounds, overall width 85".)
(My Cat 1 Monroe Tufline (brand) Disc Harrow, TH971820B, with 20" pans, weighs 915 pounds. A Disc Harrow with 22" pans, 7' width of cut, suitable for an L6060, weighs 1,000 pounds. )

On a one occasion I chained my Ratchet Rake to the rear of the Disc Harrow used as ballast.

Mount what you have, for now.

You do not have to ballast for occasional maximum lifts everyday.

 

[s219]

I normally use my box blade as ballast on my L3200, but more and more realize it's too big and gets in the way or it's not convenient/appropriate to hook up for other reasons. So I am putting together a ballast box that I can just leave on all the time unless I need an implement.

I'd like to locate some scrap lead or steel that I can use, since it's quite a bit denser than concrete (steel about 3X denser than concrete, lead about 6X denser). That will let me have a smaller box.

Also plan to weld in a receiver to take a drawbar for moving trailers around.

 

[motownbrowne]

Personally, I don't like the idea of a dedicated ballast box. For some folks, I'm sure it works great, but generally i leave whatever implement I'm using mounted until I need the next implement. I'm thinking about some heavy steel weights that I can hang off/stack on top of my most common implements. Ideally in 75-100# units, so I can adjust as needed. I will probably rig up a concrete or sand filled drum that has three point pins sticking out and a couple of chains that can fit into the skidding plate on my Farmi winch. That way if I don't have an implement on I can use that, or quickly pick it up with my winch, which is relatively light and is generally mounted from November to April.

 

[MHarryE]

You'll probably think its cumbersome but my best counterweight is my 3 point bale spear and a bale. For snow, I have a bale outside, L6060 in heated garage. Drive out, spear the bale, and I'm in business. Spear doesn't take up much room in garage. Lots of weight well back of tires, excellent traction.

 

[4570Man]

What condition is grandpas tiller in? If it's no longer operational I'd turn it upside down and fill it with concrete. Once it dries you'll have a nice ballast box. If it is operational I'd probably look for a different option.

 

[stuckmotor]

Barring an accident, I don't think you have anything to lose by trying the grandpa implements before buying the ballast box.

 

[stuckmotor]

You'll probably think its cumbersome but my best counterweight is my 3 point bale spear and a bale. For snow, I have a bale outside, L6060 in heated garage. Drive out, spear the bale, and I'm in business. Spear doesn't take up much room in garage. Lots of weight well back of tires, excellent traction.

Ditto.

 

[CalG]

Is a ballast box the best solution for weight due to compact size compared to using an implement?

From my end. It all depends on how much ROOM you have to do the things you want to do with your tractor.

I have a rather "compact" property that amounts to a series of three "push ups" of ledge running the length of the yard.
I've less than 80 feet before a "vertical" transition. A compact concrete ballast gives a useful increase in maneuverings.

In winter, when most work goes "with the lay of the land". the back blade stays on and is all that is required to facilitate bucket work.
If only I could keep from hanging up on any of these dang maple trees! ;-)

 

[milesaweigh]

I want to get some weight on the back of a Kubota L6060 to get full use out of the grapple and loader bucket. I was advised to get 1,200 lbs on the rear of the tractor for counterbalance, and to help keep too much weight off the front axle.

Loading the rear tires increases weight, but not weight behind the rear axle. So loaded tires won't help take weight off the front. So I need something on the 3pt hitch. There are some ancient "grandpa implements" scattered around the property, such as old rusting tillers or harrow. I could use these for ballast, but they are *large* and might snag up on things like stumps and other obstacles.

Is a ballast box the best solution for weight due to compact size compared to using an implement? And is there a source for a good ballast box that would mate up behind the L6060 cab model?

Lead wheel weights from tire shops etc. work well in a ballast box. I use a small Kubota ballast box full of lead weights on my L3540. Box is 3 pt. hitch ready. Total cost was $200 for the box. weighs at least 2000 lbs. and very compact. I work mostly in the trees and around buildings so the shorter the rig the better.

 

[rkidd]

I really liked the idea of a dedicated ballast box for my B2650. I wanted to fab one up that was compact and one that was adjustable for doing tasks like plowing snow with my loader or bucketing material. I welded up a frame and welded on a drawbar. Then I fabbed up the mount for the top link and welded it on. I bought 10 peices of rr track that weigh 100 lbs apeice. With the frame weighing 150 lbs I added 5 rr tracks for a total of 650 lbs. That has been the perfect amount of weight. I can get a full bucket of dirt with my 60 "bucket and the machine stays planted even driving on uneven ground. I have left it at that weight for everything I do. Of course then I had to paint it Kubota orange to match the tractor!

 

[Baby Grand]

A cheap option that has other uses is a pair of 3pt forks. Construct some plywood sides and floor on a pallet and load it with rock, gravel, steel scrap, old batteries, DU, what ever you have laying around that's dense and that you have lots of. You can even make 2 or 3 of these pallet weights, if your need to change you ballast load for different tasks.

3pt forks get a lot of use around our place - moving firewood loaded on pallets makes keeping the woodstove stoked a lot easier. Putting implements on pallets makes stuffing them in the shed and pulling them out to get at the one that you need (the one way in the back, it always seems) a quick shuffle.
-Jim

 

[varmint]

R Kidd, that's a really nice job you did on your weight box! Mine is somewhat similar, in that the ballast is removable/adjustable... in my case, heavy stones. The trailer hitch comes in handy when I have a firewood trailer to move, and still want the rear weight. The chain rails also are very handy, and add a bit of weight, obviously.

 

[mike69440]

R Kidd, that's a really nice job you did on your weight box! Mine is somewhat similar, in that the ballast is removable/adjustable... in my case, heavy stones. The trailer hitch comes in handy when I have a firewood trailer to move, and still want the rear weight. The chain rails also are very handy, and add a bit of weight, obviously.

View attachment 492106

My Ballast is pinned to my customized HF 3Pt Quick Hitch, Filled with steel bars and weights over #650 Lbs.
It stays on the back of the tractor most of the time except when I need the PTO.
Comes off easy as long as I do the process slow, careful, and deliberate.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/327912-custom-3-point-attachment-2-a.html?highlight=

 

[rkidd]

R Kidd, that's a really nice job you did on your weight box! Mine is somewhat similar, in that the ballast is removable/adjustable... in my case, heavy stones. The trailer hitch comes in handy when I have a firewood trailer to move, and still want the rear weight. The chain rails also are very handy, and add a bit of weight, obviously.

View attachment 492106

Great job on your ballast box! Nice and compact to get around. Alot of nice features. Looks awesome!!

 

[SDT]

I want to get some weight on the back of a Kubota L6060 to get full use out of the grapple and loader bucket. I was advised to get 1,200 lbs on the rear of the tractor for counterbalance, and to help keep too much weight off the front axle.

Loading the rear tires increases weight, but not weight behind the rear axle. So loaded tires won't help take weight off the front. So I need something on the 3pt hitch. There are some ancient "grandpa implements" scattered around the property, such as old rusting tillers or harrow. I could use these for ballast, but they are *large* and might snag up on things like stumps and other obstacles.

Is a ballast box the best solution for weight due to compact size compared to using an implement? And is there a source for a good ballast box that would mate up behind the L6060 cab model?

I have both L6060 and M9960 tractors with FELS.

I change all of my own tires so never use liquid ballast of any kind (probably would not use it even if I did not change my own tires).

I bought a Kubota ballast box sized for the M9960 for use with either tractor. The larger ballast box is suitable for use on either tractor and can be loaded heavier than can the smaller box that Kubota recommends for the L6060. Of course one need not fully load it. I loaded mine with unopened bags of "playground" sand bought from Lowes while on sale.

Any counterweight behind the rear axle is far more effective than loaded tires, and the further behind the axle the more effective. Correspondingly, a long implement, such as a rotary cutter is more effective than a shorter implement of the same weight. The problem is maneuverability. A long implement on the three point limits maneuverability considerably and requires a larger storage space.

Axle bearing load is a specious argument.

Regarding source: Kubota sells ballast boxes of several sizes.

SDT