New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?

   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #41  
I guess my concern on an indoor tank would be if your barn burnt down. Even if the fuel tank WASNT to blame for the cause, I'm sure the insurance adjusters would do their best to deny your claim. :(
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Agreed!

My other option is to put the tank outside, next to the barn....which they would blame if there was a fire. Or my 500 gallon propane tank that is next to the barn.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #43  
Something else to throw into the mix. I had an injector job on my truck at a service center that does all injector and pump fixes in a big area. When paying my bill I noticed some people coming in and buying stuff from cases in back of the counter and I asked him what it was. And of course what was needed for diesel injector longevity.\\

Ho said that was Standyne Lubricity Formula and was needed because diesel now days was very dry and not good on injectors and pumps. I asked about a couple other kinds of stuff noted to dry water up in the diesel tank because I have some Power Service on hand. His statement was PS does a good job of drying water from the fuel because of alcohol content but it actually is to dry. It is worse on the injectors as it needs lubrication and not dryer fuel. t seemed to make sense to me

People put a lot of different things in their diesel and unless there is a catastrophic failure, it is good stuff and works. I would suggest putting a drying type in the fuel but also a Lubricity Formula in also.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #44  
Here are my thoughts, and yes, I am also accused of over-thinking or having too much time on my hands.

Site the tank to suit you. Here in the NE some homes have two 375-gallon home heating oil (diesel) tanks in the basement; I have one 275-gallon tank. I did get a permit from the local FD (at the time it was issued w/o expiration date). If you have a friend in the FD, ask him, he has probably seen a lot. If no such friend, the fire marshall, building inspector, firefighter will give a pass-the-buck standard answer. Shade will reduce the heating and cooling cycles that increase condensation.

Raise the tank on blocks or some kind of frame. This will give you room for the drain plumbing, and room to view weeping or other signs of impending failure. Mitigating a soil contamination incident may be as problematic as a fire.

Tilt the tank slightly. This allows Bottoms, Sediment, and Water (BSW) to collect at the low end where you can tap it Sediment may collect all over the bottom, but a slight (1") pitch will facilitate flushing if you have to do that. Make sure the pump suction is at least 2" above the bottom.

Put a nipple and cap below the ball valve on the drain. All valves leak, and a ball valve lever can be easily hit, cracking the valve. Periodically open the drain into a vessel such as a one-gallon glass jar. Let the sample settle and see how much BSW you have. Decant or siphon good oil off the top of the sample and put it back in the tank. How long you wait between samples will depend on what you find {and how much time you are distracted by studying oil futures to get the lowest price each 3 year cycle). Given the infrequency of refilling, the tank will act as a settling tank extending the life of your filters. In perusing the web sites of the snake-oil salesmen (Power Serve, Lucas, Bell) I note they "disperse" water and contaminants i.e. hold them in suspension (until they are filtered?).

The oil companies/distributors have added their own snake oil prior to filling your tank. I would treat only as problems (such as algae) arise. Secondly, I would treat the diesel in the fuel tanks of the vehicles. As suggested, I would buy only summer diesel. (PS literature warns against using their cold additive year-round.) When temps fall, treat the vehicle tank plus a couple of 5-gallon containers. If the fuel in the storage tank gels use the treated fuel in those containers while you heat the tank. There are electric battery blankets, water line tracers, etc. even an incandescent bulb with some space blanket shielding may raise the temperature enough to pump.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Something else to throw into the mix. I had an injector job on my truck at a service center that does all injector and pump fixes in a big area. When paying my bill I noticed some people coming in and buying stuff from cases in back of the counter and I asked him what it was. And of course what was needed for diesel injector longevity.\\

Ho said that was Standyne Lubricity Formula and was needed because diesel now days was very dry and not good on injectors and pumps. I asked about a couple other kinds of stuff noted to dry water up in the diesel tank because I have some Power Service on hand. His statement was PS does a good job of drying water from the fuel because of alcohol content but it actually is to dry. It is worse on the injectors as it needs lubrication and not dryer fuel. t seemed to make sense to me

People put a lot of different things in their diesel and unless there is a catastrophic failure, it is good stuff and works. I would suggest putting a drying type in the fuel but also a Lubricity Formula in also.

This appears to be why my Kubota dealer uses a PS product and Stanadyne. Reduce the water and algae and make up the lubricity.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Thanks Captain! Great summary!

The oil companies/distributors have added their own snake oil prior to filling your tank. I would treat only as problems (such as algae) arise. Secondly, I would treat the diesel in the fuel tanks of the vehicles. As suggested, I would buy only summer diesel. (PS literature warns against using their cold additive year-round.) When temps fall, treat the vehicle tank plus a couple of 5-gallon containers. If the fuel in the storage tank gels use the treated fuel in those containers while you heat the tank. There are electric battery blankets, water line tracers, etc. even an incandescent bulb with some space blanket shielding may raise the temperature enough to pump.

The Stanadyne appears to low the "pour point" which I'm assuming decreases the temperature in which gelling would occur? Since it adds lubricity as well - perhaps just treat the entire tank with the Stanadyne?

However you're suggesting to avoid the PS designed at algae only - correct? Just want to clarify.

I understand why my Kubota dealer uses PS for algae and in addition to Stanadyne. I don't know that I can see how this cocktail of snake oil would "hurt" anything. Can you? I would still of course check the drain valve for water every so often to be sure.

Capping the tank without a vent seems to be the common consensus. I still wonder if a check valve for 2 psi (tank label warns to not go above 3psi) would be a good idea. I'm not worry so much about pulling a vacuum since my pump will be low gpm. Unless I just crack the fill cap open when I pump.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #47  
I'm sorry if I were misunderstood. I would accept the fuel as delivered. If I found a problem that a particular snake oil addressed, I would experiment by treating the fuel in a vehicle tank before I treated the storage tank. If and when algae appears in the storage tank, treat the storage tank with an algicide; I have no opinion of the relative merits of any brand. If there is a lot of BSW I would continue to purge/drain the storage tank rather than add an additive that holds water or sediment in suspension; gravity is cheap and has already separated the BSW.

I quote from the Power Serve website "Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost is intended for use only during cold winter months when temperatures drop below +30F. Use Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost (in the silver bottle) for peak performance in non-winter months." That implies their product has some qualities that are detrimental but are likely outweighed by the property of preventing gelling. There may be tradeoffs in other additives, e.g. dries water but reduces lubricity.

The marketplace agrees the anti-gel products work. Whether by lowering pour point, cloud point, or something else I leave to the alchemists formulating the stuff.

I am very leery of unvented tanks. I was trained to leave a gauging hatch or manhole cover cracked open during a bulk liquid transfer; heard tales of tanks collapsing or rupturing because of clogged vents. I would want some sort of pressure relief valve or a vent. I suspect you could suck more humid air into the tank during a transfer than would be naturally aspirated through a vent by temperature changes.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #48  
I have used Stanadyne Performance Formula for around 25 or so years and learned about it from a customer of mine that owned a diesel repair shop in farm country of a cold and damp climate. he was telling me of all the fuel pump business he was getting from the switch to lower sulphur fuels, especially in Fords, and how it was unnecessary. He was an educated man that understood engines and pumps and got me to use Stanadyne. He could have cared less if I did or not and did not even sell it.

Anyway, in those years since I have used it, I have put on lots of hours on around 10 tractors and in all sorts of operating conditions. I have stored fuel inside and out, in big tanks and small and in temps that used to reach 35 below. In that time, I 've never had a problem, never had an injector off, used five year old fuel and because of that, think this algae talk is someone pulling my leg.

Maybe it's just me but since trouble usually follows me around, I'm going to give Stanadyne the nod. That my story and I've never used anything else and never combined anything. This doesn't need to be overthought.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel?
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I agree with you guys (Captain & Sixdogs).

I've been using Stanadyne for the last 3-4 years and never had an issue. I guess I feel better about not using an algicide since my co-op hasn't seen any issues either.

Working in industrial factories all my career, I too am leery of unvented tanks. I've seen tanks (large tanks mind you) and semi trucks crunch in on itself like a pop can. My co-op said just to buy the flip style fill cap to keep the dirt out and it will let the tank breath some. He agreed I could probably get away with using a plug instead...buuuuuuttttt we're both a little concerned.
 
   / New Storage Tank - How to Protect My Fuel? #50  
I agree with you guys (Captain & Sixdogs).

I've been using Stanadyne for the last 3-4 years and never had an issue. I guess I feel better about not using an algicide since my co-op hasn't seen any issues either.

Working in industrial factories all my career, I too am leery of unvented tanks. I've seen tanks (large tanks mind you) and semi trucks crunch in on itself like a pop can. My co-op said just to buy the flip style fill cap to keep the dirt out and it will let the tank breath some. He agreed I could probably get away with using a plug instead...buuuuuuttttt we're both a little concerned.

I would forget to remove the plug 50% of the time and forget to replace it the other 50%...... :)
 

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