Chain saw sharpening advice sought

   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #81  
Generally speaking chains cut better the further back they are filed. They become lighter, and the kerf gets a little narrower. Maybe something else happens too, I'm not sure, but the guys that take this stuff very seriously consider chains to be getting good when they're close to the witness marks at the back of the cutter.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #82  
I was thinking the same thing about the short teeth as I watched the video. I really liked the video tho, great detail and lighting and camera closeups and focus really made it easy to watch - and he was very thorough.

Thanks for the tips. I can't wait until it arrives and I can start sharpening - even tho with all the rain we have been getting it will be a while before I get to any of the sawing tasks.

That video gives you an idea of chain lifespan if properly maintained. You own enough chains to last decades once you develop a quality sharpening technique.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #83  
Wow! Don't think I've ever seen a chain sharpened to the point of having the teeth as short as that Granberg video! That one is to the point of the trash bin in my book, but obviously will still cut well!

Since you have a bunch of old, probably well-worn chains, I think you will be happy with the power grinder. Manual filing of really bad teeth, even with a sharp file, gets tedious after one or two chains worth.

The Granberg looks terrific - it duplicates exactly what I do freehand with a Dremel. Just still be careful to not use too much pressure for too long such that you overheat the teeth.

Oh, and regarding the chain cutting straight through a log - I'm not convinced that this is solely because of uneven tooth lengths. I have sharpened chains where a couple of teeth have been badly damaged by hitting barbed wire, so required grinding down shorter than others. The chain still cut just fine. I think that consistent "hook angles" between the teeth on opposite sides is more critical, and the Granberg should ensure that.

A tooth or two being shorter won't cause it to cut on a curve - but if one side is sharpened consistently shorter than the other side, it will cause it to cut on a curve. This is the problem I had when using cheaper electric sharpeners - and why I built a custom base setup for mine. From the box there was slop in the rotating joint - so when you'd turn it to grind the 2nd side, it would move, and you'd get different tooth lengths for one side vs the other.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #84  
You brought up the Oregon Powersharp Sharp and I had seen it in the past and it seemed like a gimmick, but this time I went and looked it up on Amazon which had mixed reviews and then on a YouTube video which seemed positive. What I wasn't aware of it seems it is proprietary and you have to also buy an Oregon bar and chain matched to the Powersharp and your saw.

I had a Craftsman saw that had something similar built in. It had a curved stone spring loaded away from the chain in the rear housing. They called it a barracuda chain. To sharpen all you had to do was rev the saw and move the sharpener handle so the stone touched the cutters. It worked great and would cut like nobody's business. I heard they discontinued it due to kickback regs. The people responding to this thread discussing the saw obviously never tried using one.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #85  
Oh, and regarding the chain cutting straight through a log - I'm not convinced that this is solely because of uneven tooth lengths. I have sharpened chains where a couple of teeth have been badly damaged by hitting barbed wire, so required grinding down shorter than others. The chain still cut just fine. I think that consistent "hook angles" between the teeth on opposite sides is more critical, and the Granberg should ensure that.

Tru that. uneven length teeth unless they are visibly considerably short on one side that the other will cut straight if they are sharp.

Clues as to when a chain needs sharpening.

1. cuts a bit crooked. Don't listen to the guys who will tell you your bar is bad, 99% of the time there is nothing wrong with the bar, it is just a dull or badly ssharpened chain.

2. You have to put pressure on the saw to get good chips. It should pull good chips withount needing pressure. My left hand is rarely applying down pressure or that only slightly.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #86  
Too bad that Granberg thing isn't available in a 120v version. I do all my sharpening in the shop and have no need for a 12v battery there. I keep my spare chains in the saw case and if I need one in the woods I change it.

I will continue to sharpen by eye with my dremel. May not be as accurate but works for me and much faster than dealing with a jig.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #88  
Too bad that Granberg thing isn't available in a 120v version. I do all my sharpening in the shop and have no need for a 12v battery there. I keep my spare chains in the saw case and if I need one in the woods I change it.

I will continue to sharpen by eye with my dremel. May not be as accurate but works for me and much faster than dealing with a jig.


If you have an old junk PC computer and a wire cutter, you can have DC power on your work bench. Take out the power supply and Google how to wire it. Very simple took my about 10 minutes to do. 12V DC at the flip of a switch. Didn't cost a penny either.
 
   / Chain saw sharpening advice sought #89  
I've tried different gadgets over the years, including a Harbor Freight bench mounted sharpener, and always went back to hand filing using a clamp on file guide with wood handle.

I just bought (ever seeking to make life easier :D) the Timberline sharpener from Bailey's, and I have to say I'm impressed. You can't get the angle off...it has a pawl that keeps the teeth at the same point, so the all stay the same length...it's quicker than filing....so far, I like it !
 

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