Chain saw sharpening advice sought

[Creamer]

If you think about it - the dealers main purpose is to make the chain sharp. They have no vested interest in making the chain last longer. The only way you will complain is if the chain does not cut when you get it home. They are not going to take a chance so they will take extra off just to be sure.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

If you think about it - the dealers main purpose is to make the chain sharp. They have no vested interest in making the chain last longer. The only way you will complain is if the chain does not cut when you get it home. They are not going to take a chance so they will take extra off just to be sure.

Also if that chain touched ANYTHING hard they have to cut a new edge to each affected tooth, if the edge angle is wrong from someone trying to resharpen that chain incorrectly in between sharpenings then they have to take a lot of the tooth out to make the chain correct.

 

[bigtiller]

I have always hand filed my chains while still on the saw. I clamped the blade in a bench vice and pushed the file from the inside out. Is that the correct way? I ask because one of the the mechanics at my stihl dealership said it didn't matter which way the file traveled. He would file the chain inside-out on one side and outside-in on the other side.

Is he correct in saying it doesn't matter what direction the file travels?

 

[atsah]

I sharpen one side then turn the saw around and go in the same direction on the other side. I have used one of these for the last 35 years, I find it works best for me. I send the file down the tooth in one direction 4-5 times and it cuts like it was new.

 

[bigtiller]

You lost me....

Do you go inside to outside on both sides of the bar?

 

[atsah]

With your bar on the saw and the bar closest to you, you file outside to inside, turn the saw around, your bar will be furthest from you, your file should go inside to outside. If you take your file and put it in the tooth, it's evident which direction your file should be going in. The file guide above has two slots, one for the file sharpening from one side and one slot for the other side.

 

[Creamer]

Theoretically if you hold you file perfectly straight and with the angle of the tooth on each stroke it should not make a difference. Going outside in makes it easier to "catch" the edge which is the cutting edge therefore I prefer to go inside out.

 

[bigtiller]

Thanks Creamer. I don't have a bar like atsah has pictured, I file my chains free hand only. And I think I will continue filing from the inside to the outside.

 

[Deere Dude]

On the electric sharpeners has anyone made theirs so you can spin the wheel in either direction?

I am not sure I understand the question. On bench mounted sharpeners the wheel stays at the same angle for both sides of the chain, but the chain rides in a guide that swivels so both sides can be sharpened.

Most of my chains I set the wheel at 60 deg. and the angle at 30 deg. I do one whole side at 30 deg. then swivel to do the other side at 30 deg. I must have sharpened one chain 25 times before I threw it away.

If you meant to run the sharpener motor backwards, nope.

 

[TomSeller]

If you meant to run the sharpener motor backwards, nope.

yes, I was referring to running the motor the opposite way to be consistent in the wheel's direction of cutting relative to the chain tooth.

 

[motownbrowne]

I have always hand filed my chains while still on the saw. I clamped the blade in a bench vice and pushed the file from the inside out. Is that the correct way? I ask because one of the the mechanics at my stihl dealership said it didn't matter which way the file traveled. He would file the chain inside-out on one side and outside-in on the other side.

Is he correct in saying it doesn't matter what direction the file travels?

I wouldn't recommend filing one side one way and the other side the other, but it's true that either way works. If you really want to dork out on filing saw chains, check out square filing. There's a few different types of files that you can use, but most people who do it file each tooth from the inside out.

If anyone is interested, square filing, if done properly, results in a chain that is 25% faster cutting. Also smoother in the cut and they even have the potential to be more durable. It is, however, not easy to learn, and requires special files which are quite a bit more expensive than regular chainsaw files. Fun to play with, though.

 

[turnkey4099]

Theoretically if you hold you file perfectly straight and with the angle of the tooth on each stroke it should not make a difference. Going outside in makes it easier to "catch" the edge which is the cutting edge therefore I prefer to go inside out.

Same.

I also saw this on the net and tried it - it works. Mount the saw in the vise upside down. You can now stand alongside it to file one side and stand at the end to file the other side, no need to turn the saw around in the vise.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Cleaned, sharpened, greased and ready to go.

 

[turnkey4099]

View attachment 511389View attachment 511390

Cleaned, sharpened, greased and ready to go.

Nice! And I'll trade you my 193T for that 192T. The 192 was a sweet heart to start, easy pull, easy start. I had several...as in 3. of the 192. 1st one I ran over with a load of wood, 2nd one I was using on the woodpile and stuffed it in the garage through the back window when I was done. Next time I needed it forgot that and couldn't find it, bought the 3rd one. Found the2nd one a couple days later. Sold #3 back to the dealer as a used say (1 tank through it). 2nd one then grew legs off the back of the truck. Bought the 4th, a 193T. Smallest saw in my collectiona nd the hardest to pull even after warmed up. I know 3 other people with the 193 and all of them cuss the hard pulling thing.

I'll never be without a top handle - they rule when it comes to brushing out a tree!

 

[TomSeller]

Nice! And I'll trade you my 193T for that 192T. The 192 was a sweet heart to start, easy pull, easy start. I had several...as in 3. of the 192. 1st one I ran over with a load of wood, 2nd one I was using on the woodpile and stuffed it in the garage through the back window when I was done. Next time I needed it forgot that and couldn't find it, bought the 3rd one. Found the2nd one a couple days later. Sold #3 back to the dealer as a used say (1 tank through it). 2nd one then grew legs off the back of the truck. Bought the 4th, a 193T. Smallest saw in my collectiona nd the hardest to pull even after warmed up. I know 3 other people with the 193 and all of them cuss the hard pulling thing.

I'll never be without a top handle - they rule when it comes to brushing out a tree!

I agree on a top handle. I have a 192 that was supposed to be the yard saw for limbs that fell off. Quickly became more than that. I wish I had bought the 200, but no regrets considering the price difference.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I bought my 192 at a pawn shop, looked like it only was ran once, chain was loose but saw looked brand new and was only 3 years old.

That same pawn shop had a very used MS-460 magnum, I happen to call my cousin and he said buy them both because he wanted the 460, I think they were asking $250 for the 460 and $150 for the 192, I negotiated him down to $300 for both saws, my cousin gave me $200 for the 460 and I kept the 192, including tax and gas I have less than $200 in it, I have loved it ever since.

It buzzes right threw the little stuff, I can top a tree out in no time enough for the 660 to have working room, those two saws are the dream team for me.

 

[420GLH]

I picked up the dremel kit for my saws, works like a charm. I knock the drags down a little with each sharpening. Works fantastic.

 

[beowulf]

I am the OP. Update: In January I purchased the Granberg 12V sharpener (see link below) and run it off of my battery charger. I am very happy with it. It is fairly easy to use and sharpens beautifully - the chains seem sharper than when new. Because I already have a bucket full of once used but dull chains, I can keep sharpening all of those for years and likely will need a new chainsaw before I run out of sharp chains. I cannot say with certainty how this sharpener is better than sharpening by hand, but for me it was one of the better purchases I have made.
PRECISION GRINDER (12V) - G112XT - Granberg International

 

[Diwali]

Apparently Stihl make a manual hand tool that sharpens the cutter and files the raker simultaneously and at the correct angle too. On YouTube users are raving about it but when I checked the UK price it is ridiculously expensive at around ｣60. For that price I can buy 10 or more Chinese made chains!

 

[thatguy]

Apparently Stihl make a manual hand tool that sharpens the cutter and files the raker simultaneously and at the correct angle too. On YouTube users are raving about it but when I checked the UK price it is ridiculously expensive at around ｣60. For that price I can buy 10 or more Chinese made chains!

Pferd cs-x. On iPad, can’t link but google will take you there. About $30 but check the website for the correct size first