Chain saw sharpening advice sought

[MH8675309]

I posted this some time back. It might help you some.

Get the right size file for your chain and drill a small hole in a golf ball - one that the sharp end of the file will stick into. Tap the the ball onto the end of the file and you got an instant handle that will work perfectly. Don't drill the hole too big. Clamp the bar tightly in a bench vise (make sure the vice doesn't keep the chain from rolling) Using the kickback for a brake file each tooth and then take the brake off and advance the chain to file the next section of chain. Make sure the chain is fairly tight on the bar and file each tooth using a motion that pushes and turns at the same time. DON'T use a sawing - back and forth motion- doesn't work very good that way. Try to maintain the angle that is already there and get in the habit of doing this often so that the chain doesn't get too mangled up. When you're done with that side take the saw out of the vice and do the other side. After some practice you'll be surprise how quick it is to touch up a chain. Remember too that the guys that use a machine are taking off more steel than you would using a file. Filing the chains gives more use since your not grinding off more than you need to.

 

[SandburRanch]

I'll be looking for a diamond burr but i not putting it in my dremel that runs 20,000 rpm or whatever it is. I can't think of a faster way for me to screw up a chain. It'll be going in my variable speed drill because I'm just wanting to touch up those little teeth, not re-manufacture them.

 

[OldMcDonald]

That has always been my objection to using a machine of any sort. I had one that used stones many years ago when I used saws a lot on eucalypts in Australia and soon realised it was difficult not to take too much off.

 

[Creamer]

That has always been my objection to using a machine of any sort. I had one that used stones many years ago when I used saws a lot on eucalypts in Australia and soon realised it was difficult not to take too much off.

Agree! I can re-sharpen many times but if I take it to the dealer I only get 6-8 sharpenings out of a chain.

 

[OldMcDonald]

Creamer, Do you buy your chains there?

 

[JRobyn]

Resharpening 6-8 times is probably 5-7 times more than many chainsaw users get!

 

[aarolar]

Resharpening 6-8 times is probably 5-7 times more than many chainsaw users get!

I typically can't get that before mine find a nail or rock. I was once sawing up a 36" DBH red oak and my buddy burnt up two chains on his 2101 with 36" bar and I got one on my 7900 with 24" bar before we realised someone had filled a hollow with concrete somewhere down the line, that was an expensive day.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

This thread got long quick, I do what I'm not supposed to and do it free hand with a cordless dremel tool, I take that in the woods with me, I have always sharpened my chains this way and am good at it now.

I have tried the files with guides, I have a guide for my dremel tool but I'm not a fan of any of it, I can get it sharper, faster by hand. With the amount I used to cut I was sharpening chains almost daily. Whether I sharpened them or took them to a local shop.

I guess I got tired of swapping chains and dropping them off. I haven't destroyed a chain yet and all my saws cut quick and are always sharp.

I also have 5 chainsaws right now I use, most in the 20in bar 3/8 chain and longest is 25in .404 chain on my 660 magnum

 

[TomSeller]

On the electric sharpeners has anyone made theirs so you can spin the wheel in either direction?

 

[Creamer]

Creamer, Do you buy your chains there?

That was one reason I learned to sharpen them. It took me a few years but I figured out their system. My excuse - I was a newbie to chainsaws and didn't know any different.