Ballast Can I do it Myself?

[mmranch]

Howdy folks... it's been awhile.

I've been dealing with a tire-leak dilemma and have been trying to find the best way to solve it. I have never really worked on my tractor tires before other than mounting my snow chains, etc.

First some background. We are located on the top of a mountain in Colorado and get about 400" of snow each winter. Our driveway is 1/2 a mile long and about 150' of elevation gain from the bottom to the top (so you can imagine the grade). I have a 2009 TYM 603 that I use to move snow, skid logs, etc. etc. The rear wheels have calcium chloride liquid ballast inside a tube in the 16.9-24 R4 tires. (At least I think it's in a tube?).

Many months ago, my L rear wheel started leaking from the valve stem and I had to replace the valve stem core. I promptly got sprayed while changing the core but I got it installed and all seemed fine (other than my burned skin). Then after plowing snow for a couple of months this winter, I started seeing strange drip patterns on my shop floor... I knew something wasn't right but I couldn't see actual leaking and the tire was still inflated. So I kept plowing and one day, I noticed the tractor listing to one side and looked and the tire was almost flat and there was calcium chloride spots all over the snow around me. So I was able to limp the tractor back to the shop and get her jacked up, etc. I re-inflated the tire and then noticed bubbling/spewing from the valve stem hole area (not from the valve stem itself). I also noticed that the valve stem hole area of the rim was corroded. I'm guessing that there is a puncture in the tube and it could possibly be near the valve stem. There is still some amount of ballast in the wheel... not sure how much but it is still leaking slowly with the tire off the ground and the valve stem rotated to the 12:00 position. (Chains are removed off this wheel... and already starting to majorly corrode).

Because of where we're located and in the middle of a big winter... I can't get any service up here to fix the wheel. And it would cost me a lot. I'm currently paying someone else to plow our road and I need to get this machine back in service.


One possible solution is I could dismount the wheel, transport the wheel to a tire service place, have them drain the ballast, replace the tube, fill with ballast again, transport the filled wheel back home, remount the wheel, etc. I have an engine lift that could hoist the wheel but it would be a difficult process to precisely get the filled wheel up into my 68 Chevy pickup and back down. Plus the engine lift can only get the the wheel so far into the pickup because of it's design. Plus I would probably have to mount/dismount chains on my pickup just to get her up and down the mountain (probably twice). We don't usually use this pickup in winter so she could break down along the way. All in all... a major major pain.

The other solution is my preferred method... do it myself. But I haven't done this type of a procedure before and I don't have all the tools I need to do it. The tools I think I need to get are:

Tire irons to open up the tire.
Large container to hold the liquid ballast... not sure how much ballast is still in the tire.
Pump of some kind to pump out/in the fluid.
Hoses to hook from pump to tire/container.
Calcium Chloride powder.
New tube.
Not sure what else.

Since the Calcium Chloride has been on the rim, I might need to totally dismount the tire in order to clean the tire & rim? I've never dismounted a tire from a rim before... seems like it would be really hard without special machinery.

My basic question is... is this project something that I can do myself? Or would I be better off, trying to transport the wheel and let someone else do it?

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[Shaneard]

If you can figure out a way to get the fluid out (if you want to save it) then by all means go for it! I had a rear leaking recently (16.9-30) and hauled it to get fixed, they sucked out 100ish gallons of fluid, removed tire, installed new tube cause it was pinched and had a hole in it, pumped fluid back in and only charged me $108 and some change and that includes the price of the tube. I say only because I wouldn't touch it for that. I understand you being up a mountain and snow and all makes your need to do it your self a lot more than me needing to do mine. The fluid in and out is the biggest challenge. If your not trying to save the fluid put it on the bottom and remove the valve stem and catch what you can. I would highly recommend installing something other than calcium chloride upon refilling, that stuff is awful on rims. Be sure and secure your tractor real good, you don't want to be beating on the tire breaking the bead and knock if off your supports, you could get hurt or worse. Best of luck to you!

 

[mmranch]

Thanks very much for the ideas! Safety will definitely come first whatever route I take!

Thanks again.

 

[Shaneard]

You're welcome! And for the record, the man did mine on the tractor by himself and it took him about 2 hours and he was in no hurry. I say if you've never done one you could do it in 4 to 6 hours. They really aren't that bad if you can break the bead pretty easily. Put some lubricant around the wheel/tire when you get it broke loose and before you put it on, dish washing liquid real thick works pretty good. OH and be sure not to pinch the tube when putting tire back on rim, you don't want to do it twice (been there done that & it's not fun)!

 

[RNeumann]

Valve stems leak from time to time and are fairly easy to replace. Take weight off that tire by lifting that corner of the tractor off the ground. Spin the tire so the stem is toward the top- hopefully this will keep most of the fluid in the tire. Remove the core. When the pressure is equalized you should be able to unseat the tire near the stem. Unseating will be anything from a simple push to beating on the tire with the end of a 2x4 and sledge hammer. With the tire unseated you should be able to replace the stem.

If that doesn't work or the rim is beyond repair you could try the above with a tube. Also note field fixing a tire is a common repair that tire shops do everyday. Your location, hill, snow etc is nothing out of the ordinary.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm on the other side of this fence.

I do not say this in any condescending manner at all.

If doing this yourself was anywhere near your knowledge and equipment level you would already have done it and only be posting this thread to show others your methods. Because you are asking, I'm saying you should transport it.

Also understand that when it's apart you may discover that the rusted rim near the valve stem is what has caused the problem. If so, then you are going to need a rim. One that size will be $100 or somewhere near that. I paid $110 for a 11x28 rim.

As Shaneard said, refill with something other than calcium chloride.

Post your results, whatever path you choose.

 

[k0ua]

Watch the "old" man for some tips:

 

[ovrszd]

I rest my case.

 

[RNeumann]

Watch the "old" man for some tips:

To replace the valve stem all that is needed is the first minute of the video! Everything else isn't needed........
If you break the bead and the rim is rusted beyond repair that a different story. But to replace a valve stem is a simple task.

 

[fried1765]

I'm on the other side of this fence.

I do not say this in any condescending manner at all.

If doing this yourself was anywhere near your knowledge and equipment level you would already have done it and only be posting this thread to show others your methods. Because you are asking, I'm saying you should transport it.

Also understand that when it's apart you may discover that the rusted rim near the valve stem is what has caused the problem. If so, then you are going to need a rim. One that size will be $100 or somewhere near that. I paid $110 for a 11x28 rim.

As Shaneard said, refill with something other than calcium chloride.

Post your results, whatever path you choose.

Advice by "ovrszd" is spot on!
Drain the fluid, and take the wheel/tire in for repair!
Take the time to clean up the rust (IF you can save it), and prime, and epoxy paint rim.
Replace the tube with a NEW one!
Go to TSC, and buy a tractor tire fill fitting ($10).
Buy as many gallons of windshield washer fluid as you will need to fill the tire (75% - chart for gallons on internet))
Take the EMPTY wheel/tire home and mount it on your tractor.
Put tire stem at top position. Leave tractor on jack, with just some weight on the tire.
Attach your tire fill fitting, and add windshield washer fluid with a small cheap electric pump (drill pump?).
"Beet juice" would be great, but it is too expensive, and you cannot do it yourself.
After 75% full, top off with desired amount of air.
NOW: Do the same to the other wheel!
NEVER use CaCl again!!

 

[roadhunter]

The joys of liquid filled tires.

If you are tired of screwing around with tires just foam them. Never have to worry about sticks, branches, nails, etc.. again. Costs a little up front but it pays off when you dont' ever have to deal with the nightmare that liquid ballast can be at times. Getting flats in the woods, flats in the middle of winter, etc...

Both my JCB and little skidder have foamed tires. I have plenty of other things to worry about than flats on my equipment.

 

[boggen]

i built a custom 30 gallon 12v electric sprayer, to pull behind tractor, riding lawn mower, and a couple times a vehicle.

i have used the sprayer to also suck out fluid from tires, and then put fluid back into the tires. 12v electrical sprayer (the pump) a cheap one can work. without a all the hoses and actual tank of a sprayer.

i do not remember the name. i want say grempco? spelling they sell a tire fluid kit, that connects to valve stem. one hose connection you pump in fluid, the other hose you use to exhaust air from tire.

the larger TLB i have, tires 4 feet plus tall. i had someone else do it. guy noted easier for tire to be left on tractor. when trying to break the bead / seal, assuming you have correct tire tools / breakers.

if you take tire off of tractor. having a second tractor with FEL helps a lot. due to just plain "WEIGHT" of tire and trying to man handle it. that is just tire itself and rim. a cherry picker / shop lift. around 150 to 300 bucks. can work as well. acts like a little mini crane that you can move around on concrete / asphalt or a sheet of plywood if it comes down to it. really helps with trying to get tire back onto tractor and aligning the bolts. takes a couple up and downs and adjust chain. but there is not a lot of grunting trying to get things aligned.

there some techniques, and using FEL of tractor, you just took tire off of. to break the bead. along with using the 3pt hitch to break tire bead.

having proper tire irons to actually get the bead of the tire over the rim, and then back on. is a huge plus. and less likely to mess something up.

dish soap (used for washing dishes) can be a nice slip n slide way of helping to lubricate bead of tire and rim edge. to get things to move.

i do not remember the name. harbor freight, grainger, maybe tractorsupply. it is a more costly setup. but geared for bead breaking of tires. bolt it to concrete if memory serves. a pipe goes up, then a disc / rim tire iron goes, and another pipe above it. so you can pry against with tire irons.

============
on the old allis chalmers CA tractor. i dismounted tire from tractor. then used shop lift / cherry picker to pick it up and toss into back of truck, and drove it some place else to get repaired. it was liquid filled.

another time. (other rear tire on the CA) pulled tire, emptied the liquid, and sent if off to get a new tire put on. (ripped out the side wall).

another time (original side of CA), dismantled and repaired it all. ya really need proper tools, and enough muscle power to get it done. it is not for the weak without proper tools.

i do not have a "bead set" tank. were once you get tire on to rim (without tube) you set the beads so you can get air into the tire and hold. as a result tend to get tubes. so i can just air the tire up and and let the beads pop into place.

====================
TIP: google search "tractor tire" and goto manufacture websites, and due a dealer lookup. and goto a 2 to 3 manufacture websites to find your local folks. call up places 2 hours a way. prices can very a lot. even with travel distance. make sure you double check on actual distance cost, labor cost, mounting / dismounting cost, filling tire cost, tubing cost. some just charge flat rate, while others nickle dime you every spot they can.

===================
warning to state it. be careful. tires can go KABOOM! and they can go SLICE when wires come out of them.

 

[newbury]

To replace the valve stem all that is needed is the first minute of the video! Everything else isn't needed........
If you break the bead and the rim is rusted beyond repair that a different story. But to replace a valve stem is a simple task.

The OP wrote that his tire has tube.

<snip> I'm guessing that there is a puncture in the tube and it could possibly be near the valve stem. <snip>

How do you replace the valve stem with a tube? Do you cut the valve stem out and patch a new one in?
Or just put a whole new tube in?

 

[RNeumann]

The OP wrote that his tire has tube.



How do you replace the valve stem with a tube? Do you cut the valve stem out and patch a new one in?
Or just put a whole new tube in?

Hmmm I assumed he used the wrong term- which I should have clarified. My apology. Most don't have tubes. Every once in a while someone will throw a tube in so they don't have to patch or can't patch or just like running tubes. Either way it's easy enough to look by breaking the bead. If it has a tube you will need to remove one bead, replace the tube, and replace the bead.
I'm not too worried about his fluid at this point. He is paying someone else to plow because of a tire.....he can worry about that once he has his machine back and is able to care for his property.

If it has a tube I haven't seen a process to replace a stem- you would need to replace the whole tube.

If OP can't figure out how to do this based on the video above and the descriptions in the posts then I'm with the post who said he shouldn't do this. It would be harder for me to remove the wheel and take it in to a shop than break one bead and fix the thing while still in the tractor.

 

[Rocky J]

Just to add more thought to your idea, How long does it stay up when you air it up ?(thinking could you drive it to them) How far is it to the tire repair shop ? Would they come if it was at the bottom of the steep drive ( is the steep grade the reason the service call is a problem )?

 

[Shaneard]

How do you replace the valve stem with a tube? Do you cut the valve stem out and patch a new one in?
Or just put a whole new tube in?

Here ya go! TR218A Air/Liquid Valve Stem | GEMPLER'S
I wouldn't recommend this way unless it was a really expensive tube. I would buy a new tube if it was less than $100 to save the headache of failure.

 

[olPete]

I did one last week. Luckily it was just plain water in the tube, doesnt get so cold here and if it is cold then I stay in for a bit..
I just pumped it up, got the valve to the top and blocked it up. Removed the inner stem, the weight of the fluid broke the bead..
By the time it had deflated the tyre was loose on the rim, could shove the rest of the stem in and pull out the tube. Took a bit of work to wrestle it out but got there. Got impatient in the end and cut the whole valve out with a knife to speed up the draining process.
Found the rough spot in the carcass that had rubbed the hole in the tube, gave that a buff with the grinder until i was happy, blew the crud out with air and mopped out the moisture.
Heaps of baby powder.
Put in new tube. Levered the tyre back onto rim and set valve correctly by moving tyre around with a bar. Inflated it to about 25psi and gave it a bang where it didnt want to seat. Then deflated and put water back in.
Now that works well with water, didnt realise just how lucky we are to be able to get away with it down here.

How corrosive is calcium, never heard of anyone using it where we are?
Cheers
Pete

 

[k0ua]

How corrosive is calcium, never heard of anyone using it where we are?

Think saltwater. It rust's anything it touches. If you get it on your leather shoes, it dry's them out and curls them up. If you get it on your skin, it dry's your skin. I had a tubed rear tire get a big hole in it from a thorn, and each time it came around to the fender it sprayed this salt water on the painted fender. After the repair the fender rusted, and it took some time for me to get the rusting stopped.

 

[olPete]

Think saltwater. It rust's anything it touches. If you get it on your leather shoes, it dry's them out and curls them up. If you get it on your skin, it dry's your skin. I had a tubed rear tire get a big hole in it from a thorn, and each time it came around to the fender it sprayed this salt water on the painted fender. After the repair the fender rusted, and it took some time for me to get the rusting stopped.

Oh wow. I'm pleased don't need it, we in ZL4 land only think it's cold

 

[k0ua]

Oh wow. I'm pleased don't need it, we in ZL4 land only think it's cold

Are you licensed? de K0UA