Hiow do you change oil and hydraulic fluid without a mess?

[Redneck in training]

I don't know how some people can change oil without a drop of it on the floor. I don't have the ability or is it a skill? I know a guy who will paint whole house and has no drop of paint on himself or floor. I would be covered. So changing oil and hydraulic fluid is a challenge. Specifically, when filling empty containers (buckets) with used fluids I always spill some. I am thinking about replacing the drain plugs with something like a hydraulic coupling automatic valve that would open when a hose is attached to it. I was looking at Fumoto or EZ Oil but don't like the lever operated valve because it might open for example by a branch catching on it. Then I found No Spill Drain Valve and Oil Drain Products and Parts | No-Spill™ Systems . It is somewhat expensive so I would ask what do you guys think? The only thing that somewhat worries me is the material. I am afraid it would deform and leak when smashed on something. I would prefer steel or stainless steel or have a guard integrated into the plug.

 

[Wagtail]

My "secret" is to use cheap, LARGE storage bins (you may know them as totes) instead of an oil collection pan/container. They cover a larger floor area and are so inexpensive that I can use two of them when doing the hydraulic system (one for the main plug and the other for the filter).

You can duck-tape the lids for transport or, for engine oil, pour from the storage bin into the oil collection pan.

 

[oosik]

Quite a while ago I looked at those auto drain systems and wasn't that impressed. They appear to be designed mainly for over-the-road vehicles and not tractors. I would really question any system that hangs down further than my OEM drain plug(s). I fear it would get wiped off, crushed or accidentally opened while in the field.

I use a large Tupperware tub for my hydraulic oil - 15 gallons. That catches it all in one shot and still has enough capacity that I can carefully pull it out from under the tractor. Yes, more than once I slopped oil - when I get in a hurry and pull the tub when I should be letting the oil settle down. I'll take a little slop and hot oil on my hands, any day, rather than have to worry about some auto drainage valving system.

 

[RjCorazza]

I also use the large storage bins to drain oil in. I transfer the oil into 5 gallon containers that have an enclosed top with a 3" screw on cap originally made for firefighting foam. I wouldn't trust any quick release or easily damaged valves on a tractor (or road vehicle).

 

[big bubba]

I also use the large storage bins to drain oil in. I transfer the oil into 5 gallon containers that have an enclosed top with a 3" screw on cap originally made for firefighting foam. I wouldn't trust any quick release or easily damaged valves on a tractor (or road vehicle).

agreed. large bins from walmart are really handy. certainly wouldn't trust any modification to the drain plug. getting large quantities of hyd fluid back into the sump can also be messy...suggest manual lever pumps designed for 5 gal containers, work great. got mine from northern tool. good luck

 

[fidowanttobe]

Yeah, I'd be leery of a valve on my oil. Totes, large funnels for used oil back into jugs and 5 gallon paint pails and cardboard underneath. But, my floor has the vintage shop look and I gave up on it loooong ago. I tell my wife it is a concrete rust preventative.

 

[cat fever]

I syphoned out as much hydro oil as I could then drained the rest without spilling any. The best option like Oosik said, a big catch pan.

 

[Billrog]

I cut the bottom off a 45 gal. plastic barrel about 10" from the base to catch the oil from my equipment. Still end up using some sawdust to soak up the spills.

 

[Coyote machine]

You're over thinking it. Don't go the risky route just because you might spill some oil occasionally. Otherwise you will be likely spilling your wallet when something goes wrong and the oil REALLY leaks out.

 

[mogwild]

I have two hoses with a pioneer fitting on one end, nothing on the other end. I put one end (suction side) in a fresh pail of oil, the other in an empty pail (secured to the pour spout with a hose clamp, so it doesn't pop out and cover everything in oil). Hit the spool valve, and suck new fluid in, old fluid out, once it's all clean fluid, change the filter.

As for engine oil, I put a cardboard "V" under the oil filter, against the block, that brings the oil out over the tire (unimog filter is in a funny spot) and into a pail. I wear some oil sometimes but it's proof I do my own maintenance

 

[MillWeld]

Here's what I do on my sawmill (may or may not be helpful in your situation). I put a right angle elbow in place of the drain plug. It drains the oil into a conical top container.

 

[ovrszd]

I cut the bottom off a 45 gal. plastic barrel about 10" from the base to catch the oil from my equipment. Still end up using some sawdust to soak up the spills.

And one thing you have plenty of is sawdust Bill....

 

[BigDog1956]

I don't know how some people can change oil without a drop of it on the floor. I don't have the ability or is it a skill? I know a guy who will paint whole house and has no drop of paint on himself or floor. I would be covered. So changing oil and hydraulic fluid is a challenge. Specifically, when filling empty containers (buckets) with used fluids I always spill some. I am thinking about replacing the drain plugs with something like a hydraulic coupling automatic valve that would open when a hose is attached to it. I was looking at Fumoto or EZ Oil but don't like the lever operated valve because it might open for example by a branch catching on it. Then I found No Spill Drain Valve and Oil Drain Products and Parts | No-Spill Systems . It is somewhat expensive so I would ask what do you guys think? The only thing that somewhat worries me is the material. I am afraid it would deform and leak when smashed on something. I would prefer steel or stainless steel or have a guard integrated into the plug.

CAT LITTER-cheapest you can buy !!!!!!!!

 

[ovrszd]

I make a LOT of shop messes. Oils and fuels of every kind. I used to buy the cheapest thing I could get. Now I buy the most expensive Floor-Dri that O'Reilly's has. I rarely have to throw any away. Small puddles, it'll suck up many of them before it's totally saturated. So, to contradict what I just said, NOW I buy the cheapest thing I can get, which is the expensive stuff.

 

[Redneck in training]

Here's what I do on my sawmill (may or may not be helpful in your situation). I put a right angle elbow in place of the drain plug. It drains the oil into a conical top container.

I have something similar on our mower. I have screwdriver operated ball valve between the elbow and the crankcase.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I have been sucking it out then taking the drain plug out for years now. Takes longer, but you just plug the air in and walk away. I have one like this that i use for coolant and a larger one we use for oils.

 

[Texasmark]

You don't. Murphy's law says so.

 

[sixdogs]

It's a piece of cake. I drain oil into a cement mixing tub I got at Lowe's. It will hold maybe 10 gallons but I can only handle maybe 5 so I plug up and empty if doing a transmission, etc. Wear rubber gloves.

For filling, I only use 5 gallon buckets and this "pail tipper" I found. Everyone needs one of these. I rarely spill even a drop. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ve-pail-tipper-5-a.html?highlight=pail+tipper

That combo of big drain tub and pail tipper and the livin' is easy.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Quite a while ago I looked at those auto drain systems and wasn't that impressed. They appear to be designed mainly for over-the-road vehicles and not tractors.

The one linked above llists JD, MF, Kubota, and Yanmar in their catalogue. Also checked and all of my passenger cars are covered.

I would really question any system that hangs down further than my OEM drain plug(s). I fear it would get wiped off, crushed or accidentally opened while in the field.

Their compact model doesn't hang down at all. You'd have to really work at it to damage it in a way that would not have also damaged the stock plug. Their standard model doesn't hang down much more, but I could see it being a problem if you worked at it. It's only about 1/2" or 3/4", though.

 

[oosik]

You know - I looked at one brand, many years ago and things could have easily changed or the ones I looked at may have only been for cars/trucks. In any case, a good system could save you from the "hot oil up to the armpit" situation and the potential of stripping the threads on these new OEM plastic drain plugs.