How to mount T&G wood on ceiling...

[dragoneggs]

smstonypoint - that looks very nice and the white paint job helps with the illumination. OH, MY - I just noticed - is that a solid oak floor. I do like that and the dark stain you used on it. I don't ever remember a shop being so clean - I think that's cleaner than my kitchen.

Somehow I knew Steve's shop would be orderly.

 

[Gunny]

Somehow I knew Steve's shop would be orderly.

It is amazingly clean. My woodworking shop never looks that tidy or clean, and I've got a dust collection system.

 

[Gem99ultra]

>snip> I DO have a router but it's a monster and wouldn't be very controllable overhead like that (I have thought about mounting it on my router table and using it to (what's the word) "free hand" the cutout instead of using a jig saw)

I'd hold and move the board on top of the table rather than try to hold & control the router (don't recall the model number but it's the big porter cable, 2 1/2 hp or maybe as much as 3 1/2... I forget and am not a big wood worker to know those specifics!)

Not knowing the diameter of the light cans, IF you can get a hole saw the right size, that would be my choice. If not, cutting the holes out with a jig saw leaving about 1/8" to the inside diameter, then finishing it with a template router bit would be my second choice. You would definitely need to make a template for that method, and definitely need a router small enough to use freehand. (YMMV)

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Here's a pretty interesting video of a guy doing it by himself, with some handy home-made helpers....

That dude is a bada$&!

 

[Richard]

Not knowing the diameter of the light cans, IF you can get a hole saw the right size, that would be my choice. If not, cutting the holes out with a jig saw leaving about 1/8" to the inside diameter, then finishing it with a template router bit would be my second choice. You would definitely need to make a template for that method, and definitely need a router small enough to use freehand. (YMMV)

The issue (as I see it) is the hole for the lights won't necessarily be on a single board... so as the boards are put up, the hole will have to be formed to go around the already installed light, no?

If accurate, then cutting the hole with a hole saw won't work (in my opinion) as I've never been able to cut a partial hole in a board (I've tried)

 

[dadster4]

Ok, thanks folks!!

We do have a finish nailer already (and the nails as a matter of fact)

We also felt the boards should be finished first so they're already painted and cut to near length. Will cut to final length when they go up.

Ok, here's question number 2...

We already have about six can lights. She's going to move them about 6-10 inches (if there is enough wire up there)

I'm guessing that each board will need to be cut out as it's installed, going around the can light verses using a hole saw afterwards, correct?

When we've put the drywall up, I cut a hole 'near' the size of the can opening and used a rasp to finalize it, making it as snug a fit as I could.

I don't have that luxury with the boards..... I DO have a router but it's a monster and wouldn't be very controllable overhead like that (I have thought about mounting it on my router table and using it to (what's the word) "free hand" the cutout instead of using a jig saw)

I'd hold and move the board on top of the table rather than try to hold & control the router (don't recall the model number but it's the big porter cable, 2 1/2 hp or maybe as much as 3 1/2... I forget and am not a big wood worker to know those specifics!)

Most of the boards will only have a crescent cut out of one side when you hit a can light...test fit the board and mark the location of each can at the edges, then make a template of the can cutout size and use that to layout the partial circle on each board. I would use a small jigsaw for the cuts, the can's trim will cover any small gaps.

 

[Gem99ultra]

The issue (as I see it) is the hole for the lights won't necessarily be on a single board... so as the boards are put up, the hole will have to be formed to go around the already installed light, no?

If accurate, then cutting the hole with a hole saw won't work (in my opinion) as I've never been able to cut a partial hole in a board (I've tried)

Thee and me on cutting partial holes. I've had to either nail the two pieces together or clamp them good and solid. Even then, it's chancy. Like dadster4 says, using the jigsaw would be easiest, and will most likely cover up small gaps.

 

[EddieWalker]

Why take down the sheetrock? It's holding all your insulation in place and there is no advantage to removing it. What size are the can lights that you are moving? Have you looked into replacing them with LED can lights? For me, it's easier and cleaner to run the wires to where you want the lights to be located, making sure the ceiling joists are not in the way, then coming back after the ceiling is done and drill the holes for the lights, and installing them.

I would not use glue on tongue and groove ceiling for the simple reason it's not needed, and it's expensive.

I prefer a pneumatic stapler over a nail gun for ceilings. If you ever have to pull one down, you'll see how much stronger a staple holds the wood over a nail!!!! I staple into the tongue part of the wood, at an angle so it doesn't interfere with the next board going up. I think I used 2 inch staples on the last job that I did. This is all older tongue and groove that I took down from inside the house walls. It was nailed on, and it came off fairly easily.

 

[Redlands Okie]

How to mount T&G wood on ceiling...

Same as EddieWalker said. Leave the sheetrock. Why waste the time and labor to remove it. Knock a hole in the sheetrock as needed to move the lights. Stapler would be better than finish nails but either would work. You can still glue to the sheetrock if needed for a bit more support and less warping issue. Jig saw works fine for cutting the wood for the lights. Good time to swap to LED of some sort. Just in case, remember no splicing wires and covering the splice up. Must be in a accessible box from above or below. For what it might matter the insulation install in the video is improper. Main issue is it have paper face stapled to the edge of the joist. Over lap the paper at sides and ends.

 

[Firehawkmph]

Hi,
I finished off one of the ceilings in my shop with t & g knotty pine, 1 x 6. The boards I was using were 18' long. I set up aluminum pick planks through good stepladders to span the length of the ceiling, which was 36' I could walk along the planks and do about 3-4' of width before moving the setup. 15 gauge finish nailer worked well, nailing through the male tongues on an angle. I had to cut out around multiple outlets. I used my hand held jig saw. The area I did was 28' x 36', cathedral ceiling, 15' high in the center. Started at the lower edges and worked up to the center. Measured every so many rows to make sure I wasn't running off. Keep a wood chisel handy, some of the boards will be bowed a little. Set the board in place, drive the chisel into the joist where it's bowed and lever it into place, chisel in one hand, nailer in the other. It's actually a fun type job. Here's a couple pics, one is the ceiling in my auto shop, other is the walls in my wood shop.
Mike Hawkins