Ballast 2x2x2 concrete weight box

[Jeff Lary]

My wheels are filled as well bty.
It is 8 cubic feet 2'x2'x2' within an 1/8 " I am very sure of my measurements ha ha. Like I said earlier it is the weight of the mix + water + the steel involved . The steel is a guess but a very good one I think. The steel plate in the bottom of the unit with 1/8 " holes drilled every 4" around it's perimeter to attach the 1 x 12 boards to this plate alone probably weighs 35-40 pounds.
Then I have a category 1 draw bar in-letted into the wooden box for the lower lift arms to attach to. Then the upright steel for the top link is 2" channel iron 18" tall with steel plate connecting the 2 channel iron sections, two of these back to back with room in between for the top link to fit. This gadget alone probably weighs 20 pounds not counting the Draw bar . And maybe a pound of 7018 rod for good measure ha ha. The metal inside the box is 1/4" galvanized 1" 1/2" steel pipe cut to maybe 30" long each there are 3 of these. Plus misc 1/2 re-bar and other scrap steel for reinforcement .
Oh yes she will be stout!

 

[Sysop]

My dealer agrees with this formula for tractors with unloaded rear tires. He recommends 1/2 the loader capacity with filled tires. Although the geometry is slightly different than 3pt ballast, the Rim Guard in the R4 tires on my MX5800 adds almost 1000# of rear weight.

Your dealer is wrong. That weight is all on the ground. None of it is supported by the tractor. While it does keep the tractor planted on the ground, it does absolutely nothing for transfer of weight on the front axle.

The only way you are transferring weight off of the front axle for loader use, is to use the rear axle as a pivot point and hang weight on the rear. The "rule of thumb" applies with or without loaded tires.

I have 1450# of rimguard in the rear tires and a 1000# rear blade on the 3-point. Its always been enough for any heavy lifting with either my grapple or bucket.

Just because it has always been "enough", doesn't mean it hasn't created extra wear on your front axle components. The more weight that is on the 3pt, transfers weight using the rear axle as a pivot point from the front end, producing less weight on the front axle. The less weight there is on the front axle, the less the components will wear. Sticking with 2/3rds capacity on your 3pt ENSURES you aren't wearing out your front axle components prematurely.

The only thing tire ballast does is provide traction and stability.

 

[robertm]

So enlightening. Kubota says add 300# to THEIR ballast box on a BX. I have probably 2x that minimum on mine, and it's JUST enough.

 

[LD1]

Valid argument that a relatively small size difference can make a big weight difference, but might want to check the math.

I'll assume you meant cube and not square. Example: "24" square is 1260#"

Using a density of 145 lbs/cuft

23 x 23 x 23 = 1021 lbs
24 x 24 x 24 = 1160 lbs
25 x 25 x 25 = 1311 lbs

It is somewhat surprising that 1" difference per side can be a result in cubic foot difference in these sizes.

23" cube = 7.041 cubic feet
24" cube = 8.000 cubic feet
25" cube = 9.042 cubic feet

Yep, I meant cubed.

Came up with the same cubic foot numbers you did as well. 7, 8, and 9.

Screwed up adding 1015 +145 in my head and it snowballed after that.

My post should have said 1015, 1160, and 1305.

145 pound difference each step up. That's what I get for trying to add in my head I guess.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Depends who you get on the phone.
There is a man that works the parts desk at my local Kubota dealer if you asked what size drain plug is in a 1944 Allis Chalmers model B carb bowl he could tell ya. I called to ask his opinion the other day but instead I got a voice I knew was that of a blow hard salesman I recognized . I went ahead and asked the question is this going to be enough or too much weight for my tractor. He thought a moment then said " yea I think 300 or 400 pounds would be better you'll never need more than that" I thanked him a hung up. Sometimes your better off slamming your juicy parts in a door than to try talk to some fellas. I try to remember just because they work there does not mean they know what I need to know.

 

[LD1]

My dealer agrees with this formula for tractors with unloaded rear tires. He recommends 1/2 the loader capacity with filled tires. Although the geometry is slightly different than 3pt ballast, the Rim Guard in the R4 tires on my MX5800 adds almost 1000# of rear weight.

Agree that your dealer is wrong.

Seems he is only concerned with stability and not lessening the stress on the machine.

2/3 on the rear + 1000# in each tire is no more stress on anything than if the tires were unloaded. The weight I. The tires installed carried by the axles, housing, bearings, etc. Sure it makes you more stable and adds traction, but is no replacement for proper counterweight on the rear

 

[Jeff Lary]

I am going to try to up load some pictures of the box

[[/ATTACH][[/ATTACH].

 

[Jeff Lary]

Here are a few more now I just have to buy some Concrete mix !
I have no idea on how to make these easier to view? I was hoping you could just click on the first picture the scroll down through looking at the rest of them. As it is now I guess? you have to view one then go back click the next view that then go back,,,,,,

Sorry but I don't know how to make this work more smoothly for you all. If you do know how to make it work better please fix it up if you want to. I hope this will be of use to someone who want's to build a box themselves. Jeff

View attachment 506882View attachment 506883View attachment 506884[

 

[robertm]

OMG! And embedded KUBOTA letters too? I installed a 2" receiver on mine, which has a yoke to attach a strap. When I'm cutting trees down, it helps me tie off and use my trailer without removing the ballast.

 

[Deere Dude]

I am going to try to up load some pictures of the box

View attachment 506876View attachment 506877View attachment 506878View attachment 506879[[/ATTACH]View attachment 506880View attachment 506881[[/ATTACH].View attachment 506875

Looking at the picture on the right in your post.
I have a concern from looking at the top view picture. It seems the red drawbar is too far from the front of the box for it to work. Are you sure the edge of the box won't hit the 3 point links? The 3 pt links come from a narrow part of the read of the tractor and spread out to the lifting pins on the drawbar. The corner may hit the 3pt links.

The reason I ask is I did that and had to grind and chisel some out of the front corner of the box.

 

[bcp]

Looks like the drawbar placement would be a problem with many tractors.

Here's a photo of a square ballast with the drawbar forward
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ballast-too-much-post4123841.html#post4123841

And here is a centered drawbar but the weight is tapered.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/257768-tractor-wheel-weights-post3003289.html#post3003289

Bruce

 

[Jeff Lary]

DEERE DUDE
Ya that may be an issue I will have to make a dry run at it for sure good catch! It is 38* and rain today but if it ever warms up I will take the Farmi Winch off and try the box. It makes me glad I decided to post a photo of it. Otherwise I would not have thought about that. I just copied the width & height of the Farmi connections. Now I am itching to see what I will have to change to make it right.

Yes I placed some hand made letters on the back board so when finished the word Kubota will be embossed in the concrete. I used an old property for sale sign like a Century 21 or Re Max the material Is corrugated Plastic. I had my wife wrap the raw edges in painters tape so the concrete will not get into the corrugation voids. I will spray them down with some Fluid Film before I pour so they release good.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Up-date
You both were right the thing was about 10" from hooking up. Not even close. I just went out and tried it I took a photo of it the way I had it set up you can see it would never have hooked up. Then I moved the draw bar forward to a point that it would hook up easily and positioned the bar there in the box. I thought I took pictures after the draw bar move but I guess I did not. After I get it finished up I will then and post it.

 

[Deere Dude]

What are the weight ratings for those casters? I made a little cart for mine with four 300# approx ratings and my 7-800# box is a bear to push around. Unless it is on smooth concrete, forget it. But even if it can move a smidgen it might help hooking it up.

 

[Jeff Lary]

The casters,... well those my friend are harbor freight specials ha ha. The box with the steel weighs enough that I don't want to horse it around by man power alone , so I have it sitting on a small platform with four small casters just for moving it around. I will be just dropping it on the ground someplace when not in use I will not have a smooth enough place to use castors. If I had a concrete floor in a shop maybe I could then but I have no such luxury.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Don't they make some sort of gadgets that go on the end of the lift arms that give you a little extra reach for hooking up implements ?
My cousin has a new Massy 60 -70 hp cab radio heat air cond yada yada. On his lift arms there is some things at the end that you can move in and out about 3-4 inches so you can get close to the thing you want to hook up then make the small movements with these things?

 

[teg]

Don't they make some sort of gadgets that go on the end of the lift arms that give you a little extra reach for hooking up implements ?...

Telescoping lift arms??? I think that's what they are called... Otherwise, Pat's quick hitch gives few inches reach.

 

[Sysop]

They're great for getting things hooked up, but you wouldn't want to use them while extended. They would fail quickly.

 

[Jeff Lary]

thanks but I don't think that is what cousin has. His, " I think " will slide out like 4 inches so that if you get close the hitch will do the rest.

 

[Sysop]

If what you describe is what he has, yes, they are telescoping lower lift arms.



Still doesn't help OP's situation where his block interferes with hooking up.