dig it 198t transmition problems

[jyednak]

I disconnected the line under the pump to drain everything.
I actually took it completely off and checked that it wasn't clogged.
When I took the line off the fluid poured out pretty quickly.
I didn't see anything in the tank.

 

[joachimb]

I disconnected the line under the pump to drain everything.
I actually took it completely off and checked that it wasn't clogged.
When I took the line off the fluid poured out pretty quickly.
I didn't see anything in the tank.

I believe we may have the same problem in forward. However, I have no issues in reverse. Have you found the problem?

 

[67datroad]

Still keeping this thread alive as my digit 198t is still going strong. I was digging a spot out to move a carport to last week and blew the seal on my dipper cylinder. I had one of the bucket cylinders rebuilt a few years ago and it was expensive. This one is bigger so I figured bigger means more money. I decided to tackle the rebuild myself this time. There were no scratches or nicks in the cylinder rod so I figured what did I have to lose? I used Heartland to source the new seal kit. You will need the serial number off of the cylinder so they can get you the correct kit. I could not find the serial number until I removed the cylinder completely. This cylinder has a gland rod holding the gland in place. You need to use a spanner wrench to turn the gland clock wise to extract the pin. The gland pin has a 90 degree at one end that fits into a whole in the gland itself. Once that is removed the entire cylinder rod can be removed from the cylinder tube. I had a bit of burring where the gland sits which made mine a bit difficult to extract. Once I got rid of the burr the entire assembly came out. On the back end there is a piston with a big nut on it. You will need to remove that to slide both the piston and the gland off of the rod. That nut was torqued to 240 ft lbs so I used an impact to remove it. I have a very big torque wrench that goes to 250 ft lbs for reassembly. Bought it years ago working on a Z car rear end. Carefully remove all of the old seals and keep them in order of removal. Most of the seals had disintegrated which is why I had a leak. Good idea to take a picture just in case. Clean the parts thoroughly and work in a clean environment. Reassemble the seals and o-rings just like they came off. I used oil to lube up the parts as that is what the digit uses for hydraulic fluid any ways. The inner gland seal is a single piece called polypak. You cannot get this seal in without a special tool. The seal goes in an inner groove in the gland and is bigger than the hole it goes into. This tool deforms the new seal so you can get it in the gland and pop it into the groove. There is no way you are going to get this seal in without damaging it. Get the tool. Once reassembled clean the snot out of the rod and slide the gland on first and then the piston with its new o-ring and seals. Torque the nut to 240 ft lbs. I actually temporarily hooked up one end back on the machine so I could torque that nut. I almost ripped my vice off of the bench trying to do it that way. Slide assembly back into the cylinder tube generously oiling as you go. It will be stiff due to the new seals. Line up the gland so you can see the hole the new gland wire hooks into. Insert the new gland wire and with your spanner wrench rotate the gland counter clockwise to roll the gland pin into its groove locking the gland in place. Reinstall on machine and hook up hydraulic lines. Top off hydraulic fluid and you are back in action. I am not afraid to rebuild any hydraulic cylinder going forward and I know I saved a ton of money. Thank.

 

[Modestmouse]

I think my ignition coil is bad in my Digit 185T Tractor/Backhoe. I think I need to remove the flywheel housing to get to the coil but before I do, I would any input on how much I need to take off to reach it. I am following the spark plug wires but after they enter the housing I cannot see where they go.
Thank you
Geneva

 

[67datroad]

I would look online for the parts breakdown on the motor before I tore into it. There should be plenty of info on where the coil pack is located on the internet. That way you can get a part number and find out how much a new coil pack is going to cost you as well.

Steve

 

[ljm1715]

So I also had hydrostat problems and found that the unit uses a modified sunstrand 15u I sourced one from a john deere 315 my rotating assembly was bad so I tore the one from the JD installed in my unit used a new seal kit buttoned it up works like a dream I have lost a little speed but still has plenty of pulling power as I didn't ream my pistons as a poster in the forum suggested but all in all 200 dollars back in the game

 

[AmahastPL]

Hello all,

The purpose of this post is to help others. Information posted on this website saved my little tractor, perhaps I can help someone else.

I have a 1992 vintage Dig-It 198T. Purchased it from an estate sale some 5 years ago. 198T is just slightly bigger than Kubota BX25 and in my opinion is a perfect fit for a homeowner.

I've lent my tractor to a friend and received dreaded phone call: "engine runs, but it doesn't go".

My first instinct was a bad pump. However, on 198T the pump also provides power to the power steering pistons, and my steering was good.

Then I've removed the wheels and noticed a large gap at the hub, something was not right...

I've removed the cover, the hole on the left is for the shaft that goes to the differential. The finger points to where my axle has... snapped.

The way the differential works on 198T, if there is no resistance on both sides (for example, if you remove one axle...) no power to anything, the other wheel will NOT spin.

 

[AmahastPL]

#1 points to two prongs. If you ever must push the tractor, shut down the engine, and press on those 2. They will depress about 1/8" and will allow you to move the machine.

#2 is your pump. This creates pressure

#3 is your hydro-static drive. This directs the oil

#4 is a mechanical shaft

#5 differential, splits the power to both wheels

#6 is your differential-to-hub axle, the brakes attach to it at the end (#7)

#6 engages a 114 teeth wheel, trading rotational speed for torque.

Another shaft goes from the center of the sprocket wheel to the road wheel.

Another website, ISaveTractors.com has this handy diagram:

 

[AmahastPL]

Call Adam at Mission Manufacturing. The number is (812) 385-5061.

Very polite and to the point guy. Have a copy of your user manual, back of it has all the systems break down and all the part numbers.

While removing broken axle... it kind of became a pretzel... I should have just cut off the parts with a grinder. Instead I've tried to push it out on a press. The housing cover (cast iron) cracked. New one was $200. Replacement axle was $130. Axle bearings are $30 (you'll need two). Everything said and done the repair was about $500 in parts. If that seems like a lot to you, remember that the Home Depot charges $350 to rent a backhoe for ONE day.

Adam also knows those tractors. My instinct told me that there should be a bearing in that hole under the differential axle (where the silver cap is), there is not. Also, few part numbers are wrong in the manual, but Adam knows all about that...

 

[AmahastPL]