What is the best drill press for metal and how do you dril

[tcreeley]

A good way to increase the accuracy of holes without spending a lot of $$ is to invest in a set of center drills (spotters work fine also, just need more). Use them to start your holes; good to make a habit to use on all sizes, especially on anything small (less than say .400) where twist drill point often deflects.

Center drills are great to use. A short cut I use is a center punch. Mine is on a hammer handle, a repurposed hammer that I had made for blacksmithing.The bit finds the mark and does not drift. - A center drill is a pleasure to use when I can find it!

 

[Mace Canute]

I have a Bridgeport clone knee mill that I use for drilling all the holes I need. I also have an old Buffalo Forge #15 benchtop drill press that I got in a swap for some machining work. It's between 55 and 60 years old and is still easily an order of magnitude better in quality than the usual consumer grade fare you find today.

 

[bcp]

Most has been covered but I'll add that getting a 3ph press can sometimes be more affordable,...

Ditto a 3ph drill ...

Where are you guys finding these 3 point hitch drill presses?

Bruce

 

[NoTrespassing]

As one said above, CLAMP your work, especially if it's thin material. A 6" piece of sheet metal spinning at 200 rpm will slice the crap out of you. Unplug the drill press when changing speeds if it uses step pulleys for speed changes. Always wear safety glasses. I never wear gloves when drilling, others may have a different opinion on that. That's just how I was taught. Machine auctions are a great place to get nice heavy equipment at bargain prices.

Kevin

 

[k0ua]

When we say "chip", This is kinda what you are looking for not little dust like "chips'.

Speed, feed pressure and lube.

View attachment IMG_20160917_180847898.jpg

 

[kydick]

hey i like that idea of using that electrical box to hold the oil. mine keeps falling away.

 

[dstig1]

Where are you guys finding these 3 point hitch drill presses?

Bruce

 

[Tractor Seabee]

On the "sorta" cheap side, this one goes down to 200 rpm

13 in. 16 Speed Drill Press

With a 20% off coupon it'd be $225. Would work for drilling maybe up to 3/4" holes in 1/2" mild steel as is, and if you're handy enough you could probably adapt this motor



Depending on how accurate your bigger holes need to be, hole saws can work OK - I've cut 2-1/2" holes in 3/4" steel using them at slowest (180 rpm) speed (normal 12-speed Taiwan DP) and a CONTINUOUS stream of compressed air cooling them - messy but doable. A "magnetic broom" can help afterwards with cleanup, like one of these

It'd probably help if you told us more about your actual NEEDS; material thickness, hole diameters, and more accurate price range than "poor" (my definition ain't the same as Bill Gates', for example ) ...Steve

I have an early bench model of this DP. I have not detected any slop in the mechanisms. I like the 180 rpm for large holes. I have drilled up to 1" using cobalt bits (set 1/2-1 in 1/16 increments). Drilled up to 3" using hole saws. Some of these are up 1" thick steel stock. I work up to size needed in three jumps starting with a 1/4 pilot bit. I have even done some end mulling with a HF milling vise. For DP considered junk that I paid $45 for at the auction (only bidder) it has done a super job. I probably have $750 invested in accessories and various drills, mills, vises for up to 8", fence and etc. I only work at high speeds with HS bits up to 3/8 then start turning down. I always bolt my vises down, seldom don't anchor the work (maybe long or irregular pieces) support the other end of long pieces. I keep my DP level and bolted down. That way I can get true holes at right angles to the stock. I use plumbers sulfur bearing cutting oil liberally. I have an old Audel's machinists handbook I would not do w/o. Hope this helps.

Ron