I'm doing something wrong with this drawbar right?

[petebert]

The original drawbar plate was broken when I bought this tractor(Ford 3600). So I bought a replacement on ebay. It came with the flanged pin and clevis pin you see in the picture. I originally had it installed the other way around. Go to put my drawbar in and the large pin won't lift up high enough to get the draw bar in. I'm not using an original Ford drawbar, maybe the original style is thinner and will fit?

So to make it work I took the entire plate off and flipped the pin around. Now whenever I want to use the drawbar I have to crawl under the tractor slide the pin in and get the clevis pin into it. Is there a better way to do this? This doesn't seem like a very good method.

 

[Spanner]

Pin inserts from underneath and an "R-Clip" secures in the upper space. So you have it correctly orientated in the lower pic.

The drawbar is too 'thin' and the hole looks too baggy.

You could put a spacer on top of the drawbar to level it - But the hole is still too baggy so you will get 'shock' noise as you take up the load slack when pulling. That wears your new Pin & Plate.

 

[CalG]

You are doing it right. That's just the way they do it.

I did slide a washer in against the hitch pin. Even more a PITB, But I leave the draw bar in pretty much always.

 

[Big Barn]

Pin inserts from underneath and an "R-Clip" secures in the upper space. So you have it correctly orientated in the lower pic.

The drawbar is too 'thin' and the hole looks too baggy.

You could put a spacer on top of the drawbar to level it - But the hole is still too baggy so you will get 'shock' noise as you take up the load slack when pulling. That wears your new Pin & Plate.

X2 everything Spanner said.

Except that "baggy" term. Must be down under talk.

 

[Spanner]

LOL. Think "baggy trousers"...

 

[Big Barn]

LOL. Think "baggy trousers"...

Also interesting is your reference to "R" clips.

Around here we call them "hitch pins" which in essence could mean several types. "R" clips makes much more sense.

I will relabel my parts bin.



Terry

 

[LouNY]

A good reason for the clip be it a snap ring or cotter key is that it is protected up there if it was hanging down it would be dragging in the grass and brush and being removed with out you being aware of, definitely need a bushing for that drawbar hole to take up the slop

 

[Ortimber]

All of our new Kubotas have the draw bar installed with the clip on top.

 

[Leejohn]

I got my hair pin on the bottom. With hair pin on top and it gets pulled out there goes the pin and draw bar. At least you get a 2nd chance to save the pin and bar.

 

[kthompson]

You may find the cat 1 to cat 2 pin bushing will take up the slack between the pin and the drawbar. That much slack I think will lead to fast wear on the pin but also the mount. As to the clip pin being on the top don't think you can insert the pin from the top and the clip pin is very protected.

 

[Big Barn]

If I recall correctly the Fords (1950's era?) had a quarter turn pin that inserted from the bottom that didn't require a clip on top.

I'll check my parts room tomorrow. None of those tractors still here but for some reason I can picture the pin.

Terry

 

[Big Barn]

Okay. I couldn't wait 'til the morning and I just went out to the shop to check my stash.



Found the pin I was looking for. You guys with the older Fords can correct me if I'm wrong. THIS is what I recall using for securing the swinging draw bars of the 1950's + or - era.



Terry

 

[jimmysisson]

Why remove the drawbar? Is it in the way of an implement? All mine have inserted from the bottom like yours, clip safely on top.
Jim

 

[petebert]

Yeah it would get in the way of all sorts of stuff. Although I was looking at my neighbors tractor with a quick hitch. If I had one of those everything would probably clear it fine.

 

[Big Barn]

Yeah it would get in the way of all sorts of stuff. Although I was looking at my neighbors tractor with a quick hitch. If I had one of those everything would probably clear it fine.

Most drawbars have at least two holes for length adjustment. Would shortening it up provide the extra clearance you need? Or maybe swinging it to the extreme left or right?

Terry

 

[kydick]

if that was a ford draw bar you have it in backwards. the hole for that end is the same size as that pin on a ford drawbar. I think that hole is for whatever you are going to pull with the tractor.

 

[Big Barn]

if that was a ford draw bar you have it in backwards. the hole for that end is the same size as that pin on a ford drawbar. I think that hole is for whatever you are going to pull with the tractor.

Good call. I think you're right.

Must have been a flat bar with no offset on the implement end for him to insert it that way. Still not the proper drawbar, though looks too skinny.

 

[kthompson]

I do join the others saying the draw bar looks to be installed backwards and also it is not as thick as it should be. It may not have the strength it needs to support the vertical load that can end up on that draw bar but even if strength is not an issue the slack is. It will allow the draw bar to move up and down a lot and for some implement no issue but if you have a trailer or pull sprayer on there you will get a lot or can get a lot unless the front is is heavy enough to keep heavy weight on the tongue. Also with that slack in there the draw bar is lower on the pin end than it should be so what ever you are pulling probably will not set as level as it should. If you must use the draw bar for a while do get it shimmed to take all the vertical slack out.

 

[petebert]

It's not a Ford drawbar, I was hoping to get away with using the one I already have. I don't think it can go in the other direction. I'm looking at the Ford ones on ebay and wondering if this style might work best for me C5NN85F Ford / New Holland 39 4 41 46 Rear Curved Drawbar | eBay Especially since it's got the smaller holes at the rear, which I'm guessing I can lock it with the small pins at the rear with.

To clarify, I bought a drawbar plate like this from ebay, I bought just the plate since I already owned a drawbar. See the two pins that restrict how much it swings? Well as you can see they only drill 4 holes in these foreign made replacements, so there's a 1" gap on each side of the drawbar. The original ones had a bunch of holes to lock the drawbar in all sorts of different positions. Ever try to back up a hay wagon? It's even less fun when your drawbar moves to the side at an angle before the wagon even begins to move.

Here's the drawbar I own.

 

[Big Barn]

You could probably "bush" the lateral adjustment pins in the sandwiched area where the drawbar swings to eliminate the play.

For instance if you have 2" play in total you would need two 2"OD bushings with a bore to accept your two existing adjustment pins.

At least you'd be able to back your trailer easier.



Terry