Newbie needs help with old Ford 4000

[Soundguy]

The pic is of the hole directly beneath the hyd pump. I shoved my head in there a little deeper and I think I see where it is (hard to tell with the pump in the way). You're picture helped alot. Thank you. I never would have found it without your help. It looks like I will have to remove the pump to get to it.

look from above the pump, not under it. it's very near the top of the pump, and of course in the block. fitting should be plainly obvious unless it has been plugged flush somehow.

soundguy

 

[whodat526]

look from above the pump, not under it. it's very near the top of the pump, and of course in the block. fitting should be plainly obvious unless it has been plugged flush somehow.

soundguy

and is a pain in the ***** to get to if you dont remove the pump it about middle ways of the pump towards the front of the engine

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. gotta have elf hands, and micro tools, a bit o' luck and a pocket gnome to do it with pump on.

he'll be lucky if there is a few inches of good stub line left he can union to.

soundguy

 

[Dragonlord8096]

I got it installed. Don't have elf hands so I had to take the pump off. The PO had put a bolt in it. Ran all over town to find a fitting that would work, but I finally found one. Got 40 psi at idle, 60-65 at WOT.
The year thing still has me confussed. I had read that the 62's were red, then blue beginning in 63 (mine's blue and grey). I also read that the "1" is 41202 meant it was produced in 63 or after. But then the serial number puts it in 62.
It does have a double clutch. 1st position disengages engine, 2nd pto.

 

[Soundguy]

all 000 4 cy;s with a 5 spd had a dual clutch.

sn batches were by order sometimes.

blue grey was the 000 / 4 cyl line.

red / grey was the 01 and previous.

not uncommon to see a small disagreement for a model with a late sn and otherwise a early next year model designation

don't think on it too hard. ford didn't

 

[whodat526]

and all parts will interchange with a 801 and a 4cyl 4000 except the emblem but everything else is the same

 

[Gale Hawkins]

In change over years strange things can happen. Many were repaint blue after the paint aged and to bump resale value because like know most could never figure out the difference or cared.

 

[bigjohn125]

it goes in BEHIND the hydrauli pum, at the rightrear of the block,

look ahead of your right foot, ther eis hte hyd pump. has the tach cable going to the snout.. now, aft of that a few inches. ie.. start looking a tthe pump , the end towards the front of the tractor.

there will be a lil fititng in the block between the pump and block. probably has some capilary tube sticking out of it pinched off. cap is 1/8" steel line if original.

now.

you 99% of the time have to remove the pump to work ont he fittings.

if you are lucky however, and there is a few inches of line left, and the end s not mangled carefully cut it with a tubing cutter, use a scotch brite pad to clean the metal tube to shiney.. don't bend or kink or break it.. now use a 1/8 to 1/8 brass compression union. if the metal is real pitted, here's a trick, mix some jbweld 4 minute epoxy, and use a qtip and coat the end of the tube, then slide the ferrule on, dab a lil more on the ferrule and behind it.. work quick.. now go ahead and torquw down the compression nut to lock the ferrule onto the tube and into the union.. let that set while you unroll some 1/8" cap line.. I prefer copper, and bend it carefully to fit from dash to the new union, leaving some slack, coiled gently .. union it up and connect the gauge very loosely.

crank engine over till oil drips at the gauge, then torque correctly.

the bleeding is not necescarry but I like to do it.

if you have especially small or delicate or nimble hands and tools, you can work on it with the pump in place, even if the tube is pinched off at the fitting.

sometimes some fool has simply put a PLUG in.., forcing you to mess with it..

soundguy

Soundguy, thank you very much for this tip. I used the compression union and it worked perfectly and saved me a ton of time not having to take off the pump. No leaks and only took a few minutes. Thanks, again. I really appreciate the knowledge on this forum.

 

[Soundguy]

Soundguy, thank you very much for this tip. I used the compression union and it worked perfectly and saved me a ton of time not having to take off the pump. No leaks and only took a few minutes. Thanks, again. I really appreciate the knowledge on this forum.

Welcome!

I'm glad that old dusty post of mine helped someone.

I've bought quite a few tractors over the years that had from none to some oil line left. Some were plugged.. some had only an inch, some had a few inches. If it's enough to work with.. it sure beats pulling the pump.