Here's my setup. Reluctant to call it rig in comparison to most others on here! It's a bit small :laughing:
'07 Defender has a 2.4 Ford diesel. Same engine as Transit and Ford Ranger, but don't know if you get it in the US. The trailer I just rent from a local guy when I need it, only costs me 」30 a day so no point buying. My tow bar is a touch high for the trailer since I took the adjustable height drop plate off because it kept grounding off road.
We have Transits here, but later gen diesels. Much of the world has the Ranger Duratorqs now, but I'll be a bit surprised if I see them here.
If yours is a pre-emission motor, and stick, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, I can't import it for another 5 years. If you still own it in 5 years, drop me a PM.
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What is the Lister project ?
Rgds, D.
Engine has a cat but no DPF, which is a good thing. They still suffer with EGR valve problems though. Six speed Ford manual transmission. Same as some Mustang I believe. I can't imagine I'll ever part with it, but if I do, I'll drop you a line!
The Lister is a 1918 L Type, 5hp, for restoration, but I haven't touched it yet. It's missing the mag, but otherwise seems in good order and compete. Goal is to have it running for its 100th birthday in May next year.
I used to drive Range Rovers for work, 6 cylinder 2.5 BMW diesel, smooth but quite slow. We never had too much trouble with the air springs. The 2.7 and 3.0 diesel that came in the Discovery (LR4 in the US???) is much better. We get the Range Rover with 4.4 V8 now, ive never driven one.
The Defender is like something from the dark agesin comparison. It's rated to tow 7700lbs, which it will do all day long, but very slowly!
What year did those motors go EGR ? Something like 2002 ?
Cool Lister project - post details in another thread please :thumbsup:
Rgds, D.
I think EGR valves were introduced in 98 or 99 on the previous TD5 diesel, all Defenders after that had one. The 2.4 Ford engine came in '07 and revised to a 2.2 with DPF in '11. It's coo on to have the EGR blanked and disabled here, as they don't test if it works. People used to remove cats and DPFs too but they are now checked at the annual test.
You need to readjust that weight distributing hitch. Those spring bars should be near parallel to the trailer frame once latched and loaded. You'll need to loosen the head where the spring bars go in, two bolts. The top bolt may need to come out to add washers as spacers, some just have a bolt you will screw in more. There is also a bolt that goes in the bottom to help secure the amount of tilt there is on the head. Once the head is tilted away from the truck and tightened down, the spring bars should hang below level slightly. Set the trailer on the ball, lock it, raise the trailer and back of the truck up till the bars are near level, then lock the chains for the spring bars on their mounts. Lower the jack to set the weight back on the system.
New forum member and 1st post. Just got a Kubota BX23S TLB w/ thumb, tiller, box blade, and 4 ft cutter. Glad I had the HD towing package and brake controller. Also have an older John Deere 950.View attachment 520090