Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader

   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I stumbled across a thread on orange tractor talks , they are working on similar problem your friend is having and I wondered if the websites they listed might have anything that would help your friend . Thanks for the heads up on pump not being able to be relocated . I didn't realize it was in such a tight area until I saw a picture of one installed . Thanks for all your advise and input , I really appreciate people like you .
Nobody has or seems to make a 35mm 26 spine but maybe these links will offer something that can help others .

1982 L245DT crankshaft splines - OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

Kubota 3537-8853 PTO FLANGE - Discount Yacht Supplies, Vetus Nautical Accessories, Scandvik Parts, Garmin Marine Electronics

Hub City Inc -:)
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Hi Dick , I ordered the connecting rods from Scott Kent at Maine Tractor , I told him you referred me and to give you a discount on parts for referring me , he laughed and said that was a good idea LOL. Thanks.
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader #23  
Do the the bores have ridges partway down from the pistons being stuck? Do you have a recommended diesel engine repair shop lined up? They'll help you decide what work the block & head needs. Sometimes, when a tractor has an unknown history but is already apart, a shop might suggest a full rebuild (rebore with new pistons etc). But other times it can make more sense to get it running again with minimal new parts (maybe just hone and rings) so you can see if the rest of the machine is worth diving deep on the engine.
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader
  • Thread Starter
#24  
The bores look o.k. and are standard bore , the pistons had heavy corrosion on the aluminum body of the pistons and that appears to be what had the engine seized , the rings are stuck in the pistons but over all it does not look like the rings rusted to the cylinder walls . I do not have a machine shop lined up , I am new to TX and I have no idea who to go to or stay away from . I don't feel safe using the old pistons again , with the way the previous owner beat the rods up I can picture a broken ring land coming loose when I least expect it .
I have built several super charged engines over the yrs. even a few alcohol burners , so I think I'm comfortable giving the diesel a try , But at the same time I'm a little nervous since this is the first diesel I will be getting this deep into .
Also with the horror story's I have been reading about gasket sets with seals that do not fit and possible head gaskets being too thick and then having low compression problems , I just can not decide who to buy a rebuild kit from . I just can not get over the prices that Kubota dealers want for the gasket set . Do you have any recommendations , Thanks .
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader #25  
Yes the Kubota kits might be a bit more, but you are getting a known excellent quality kit that will be right. You'll be happy you did. I've lost count of the number of Kubota engines I've rebuilt over the last 30 years. If you have the skill to build high-performance engines the little diesel will be no problem. Just like you wouldn't skimp on cheap parts in a blower motor, don't skimp here for all the same reasons.
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader #26  
I stumbled across a thread on orange tractor talks , they are working on similar problem your friend is having and I wondered if the websites they listed might have anything that would help your friend.......

My friend's external hydraulics were restored to working condition today.

His L355ss has the 4-piece front pump drive and the second section's internal coupling splines were stripped. A replacement part isn't available so our solution was to add four dog-point set screws to take the place of the stripped splines, and preserving the external hydraulics on this tractor.

Here's what was done to make this repair:

The first section, the part called a "bushing", remained mounted on the crank. The failed coupling, chain sprockets and pump were unbolted and taken out. A new steel collar was made and pressed on over the end of the stripped coupling, increasing its wall thickness. Four holes for 1/2" set screws were then drilled and tapped through collar and coupling. The shafts and pump were then bolted back in place, using a wrap of plastic shim stock to take up the looseness in the stripped splines.

Using a long drill from the right side of the tractor, deeper 3/8" dia. holes for the dog points were drilled into the "bushing". Set screws were installed in each new hole, with dog points reaching in past the stripped splines. The pump shaft now drives securely, running true and strong.
 
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   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader
  • Thread Starter
#28  
The connecting rods were delivered today from Maine Tractor , The rods are in perfect condition , absolutely perfect . I highly recommend Maine tractor for anyone looking for parts .
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader #29  
I may be late but just found this thread, if anyone knows where I might find a gear for the 540rpm pto it would be much appreciated, if not anyone interested in parts it's an 1983 L345 with the 1720 front-end loader, new R1 ag. On rear
 
   / Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader #30  
I'd suggest starting a new thread for this something like "L345DT damaged rear pto gear(s)" That should get more eyes on it.

Is the tractor apart now? Which gear? any pics? Might be helpful to add some details like when and how the damage happened - does it still work? is there noise? are both pto speeds effected? I broke mine years ago using a rotary mower. One gear had broken out teeth and two more had cracks. Best luck, Dick B
 
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