Most of the opinions and explanations seem to echo my own experience, although I do tend to run my own tractors at a lower RPM - often hardly above an idle. Maybe that's partly because I don't like all the extra noise of high RPM....and partly because that is fast enough both to do the work and to enjoy doing it.
I prefer HST, and agree that there was something wrong with the one you originally tried. I guess you realize that by now. Maybe it was adjusted wrong at the factory, or the brake was on, or possibly - even probably - it was simply that the wrong speed range was selected and so you were trying to start out with the tractor in the highest gear. Try selecting a lower gear. It should be capable of moving off with good power at anything idle or above.
That said, the higher the RPM, the more ultimate power the HST will have.
And by the way, not all HSTs work the same way.
First of all, not all brands have the same sort of HST foot pedal. Some have a "single rocker" foot pedal so that you press the front to go forward and the back down to go in reverse. Other brands have separate side by side foot pedals....one pedal for forward and the other for reverse. Which you choose is simply a matter of preference. They work just the same, and you will soon get used to whichever type you pick.
Speed range is a little more important. For example most HSTs have a shift lever to allow you to select the speed range you plan to be working in, but the total number of ranges offerered will vary model to model from one to six or more. Theoretically, all a HST would need would be one forward and one reverse speed, but practically it doesn't work that way. Most larger tractors have at least three HST ranges. and will often have an "on the go" finger switch for high and low in each speed - for a total of six different speed ranges. For a tractor capable of working 30+ acres like you are anticipating, you will want at least three ranges and more than that is better. In all types of tractor transmissions the top range is for traveling, all the lower ranges are for working.
HSTs are typically coupled to the engine in a torque-sensitive fashion so that as you push on the HST to change the speed.... or if the tractor encounters a load.... then the the engine RPM will automatically rise and fall to meet whatever the work demands. This type of HST is referred to as being "auto-throttle" and will also automatically return to idle when the HST is in the neutral position or when you lift your foot from the HST pedal. If I were in your position I would most definitely want the auto-throttle option.
By comparison, very early models of HST required you to set the operating RPM with a hand throttle and then vary the ground speed with the position of the HST pedal. Some people got to prefer that constant full throttle operation, and it isn't uncommon for the automatic load sensing HSTs to have a switch that will turn off the automatic function and return the tractor to a more manual HST. Mine has that switch and I do use the manual setting sometimes on very cold mornings when I don't want the engine to rev up to much until it is fully warm.
And there is a teaching advantage too. When learning how to operate a HST machine there is no better way to teach yourself about HST than to try out a tractor with HST and auto-throttle, and then turn the auto-throttle off and operate it for a while that way. Do that, and the relationship between HST, throttle, and ranges become much easier and instinctive to understand.
HST really shines when changing speeds and loads a lot. You change speeds and load a lot when doing loader work or chores or doing dirt landscaping. Shuttle shift is preferable when you are at a constant speed for longer times like when plowing or seeding 10 acre or larger field with long rows. Mowing is sort of an in-between operation and there you chose one or the other to suit yourself.
But both types of transmission will work. In fact, in the last 50 years I've had about equal numbers of gear shifting tractors and power shifting tractors. I've only had a couple of HST machines. Our land is less than 20 acres and rugged. Rocks are common and snow is a factor too. I much prefer the HST. If I was farming crops on flatter land I'd go for shuttle or just straight gears.
My recommendation: buy as nice a tractor as you can possibly afford. Get one with every feature you can dream of and get the next larger size than you think you need. This is going to be your mechanical farm hand and will be used more than you can possibly foresee. It doesn't have to bee new. After all, when a tool is expected to last 20 or 30 years, there can't be much wrong with buying one with 5 years on it. There is nothing wrong with good used low hour tractors - choose a dealer and let him guide you there. BTW, tractors years start when they are sold, not by year of manufacture like autos.
Finally, a tractor is only as good as the implements it works, but luckily you will find that used implements work just as good as new ones, and cost far less. You want a loader, good 3pt, and accessory hydraulic outlets. For implements past that point I recommend you rent them first.
good luck,
rScotty
