Lights, Mirrors and Ammo Boxes.
I've had my 2003 3510 for almost 6 months now and it sure seems to be well put together and sturdy. Based on the neat things other folks have posted I've added a couple of gadgets that make it even funner to work with.
It's first job this spring was weed spraying in the annual campaign against the demon knapweed. The weed sprayer is powered by an electric pump, and trying to run the pump off the light wires didn't work too well because they were only kicking out about 10.5 volts. Running a fused 10 gauge wire from the battery solved the voltage drop problem, but got me to thinking that it might be nice to have a power center at the back for lights and the chute rotation motor when running the snowblower in the dark this winter.
The blower is a Lorenz 630 mounted on the 3 point hitch, which means a lot of time operating in reverse. I'm not flexible enough to keep my neck cranked backwards that long, so I figured that some big rearview mirrors would be the way to go. Amazon has 9 x 16 trackhoe mirrors for something like $20.00 so I mounted a couple of those on 1/2 inch conduit which is both cheap and easy to work with.
The 3510 has a work light for the 3 point, but it is pretty minimal. Looking through the forums at that the things other folks have done for lighting led me to the LED light bars on Amazon, and I rigged them up to the ROPS bar. These LED lights are unbelievable. The light bar and two spot lights cost a total of about $50.00 and they light things up like like it was daytime.
I wanted the power center for the lights, the sprayer plug, and the electric chute rotator for the snowblower to be housed in some kind of reasonably weather proof housing that won't shatter at -20 and that will last for a while. I also wanted a tool box to hold shear pins, hitch pins, wrenches etc. On the bi-weekly pilgrimage to Costco I saw a set of ammo boxes for $18.00 and thought hmmm.
It tuns out that the 50 cal. box easily bolts on to the right side of the deck if you remove the step frame.
I bolted the 30 cal. box to the left fender, and bolted positive and negative bus bars to the inside of the lid, so that it is easy to get things both wired and un-wired. The main power comes in to a relay on 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse at the battery. The lights run through a paddle switch, and the chute motor runs through a big polarity-reversing DPDT switch with a switch lever big enough to work with heavy gloves or mittens.
