Tractors and wood! Show your pics

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Nowhere did I advocate burning green wood. Your premise that wood must be split to burn efficiently is wrong. As long as there are fools, nothing is fool proof.

It is not a "premise" whatsoever. Let me know how that 12" diameter unsplit chunk of oak that has been cut two years ago works for ya, Oh yeah, you're thinking all is just fine in the outdoor boiler.
About the last part of your sentence...you're exactly right.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Who said the wood was not dry? I have dead ash stacked in full length logs that's very well seasoned.

Well, I have a BSM, and I've had wood boiler people (and others) bring me one of their "dry logs" logs to make some boards for them.

Boy are they ever surprised how "green" those logs are when I open them up!

They all say the same thing, "I never would believed how much moisture was in that log as it was "X" many years old!!"

I'm with the camp, IF you don't split it, then it's not seasoned properly for firewood, BECAUSE that's what I've seen myself when milling "seasoned" logs..

SR

 

[Piston]

I don't know where Square1 is from, but there are parts of the country where I split wood can be very dry after sitting up off the ground a while. Places out west can be so dry that it will season properly unsplit.

However I second what Rob is saying for our part of the country. I've opened up logs on the mill that have been stacked a long time, and although dry on the outside, they are "wet" on the inside.
I mill mostly pine, oak is 10 times worse.
(For those that don't know Rob's acronym, BSM=Band Saw Mill)

What mill do you have Rob?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Norwood Lumbermate 2000,

It's been a GREAT mill...

SR

 

[cat fever]

I don't know where Square1 is from, but there are parts of the country where I split wood can be very dry after sitting up off the ground a while. Places out west can be so dry that it will season properly unsplit.

However I second what Rob is saying for our part of the country. I've opened up logs on the mill that have been stacked a long time, and although dry on the outside, they are "wet" on the inside.
I mill mostly pine, oak is 10 times worse.
(For those that don't know Rob's acronym, BSM=Band Saw Mill)

What mill do you have Rob?

What you say Piston is right. As long as there is a split in the tree (pine) it's usually already dry and can split pretty easy with an axe. I did cut an elm tree down once that dried for 4 years and was still to wet to split with an axe and wedge.

Saywer Rob I sure wish I lived closer to you; I'd come and help just to see how it all works. I watch youtube video's all the time about sawmill related stuff.

I'm contemplating a firewood getting trip. Not sure if I want to. I might move in a year or two and I have enough wood to last that long. Not to excited about moving wood to the new place wherever that might be.

 

[ultrarunner]

Cat Fever... say it isn't so?

You have put a lot of effort into the homestead...

Whatever you decide I hope it works out best for you.

 

[cat fever]

Cat Fever... say it isn't so?

You have put a lot of effort into the homestead...

Whatever you decide I hope it works out best for you.

Thanks,

That is one BIG reason not to move.

However, SLC has some really bad air during the winter when we get the "inversions". Having asthma makes me want to go higher in elevation to cleaner air. This would happen after I retire which I'm thinking real hard about right now.

 

[ultrarunner]

I notice that I am happiest at sea level (Not the Hot Regions) or in the mountains... the in between not so much.

For me Western Washington on the Puget Sound has been a good compromise and my future plan.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks,

However, SLC has some really bad air during the winter when we get the "inversions".

Boy that is surprising. The air in your beautiful avatar photo looks crystal clear. I can see that a decision like that would be tough to finalize.

gg

 

[square1]

Let's review your suppositions:

...un-split wood is burning at less than half the efficiency of dried out splits...

...the needed work of splitting to burn wood efficiently...you are burning wood that is certainly retaining a lot of moisture...this type of wood burner...

...12" diameter unsplit chunk of oak that has been cut two years ago...

You, not knowing a single characteristic of the wood, not the length or diameter of the rounds, length of time seasoned, environmental conditions (natural and / or external influences) during seasoning, type of wood, live or dead tree (if dead for how long before felling), type of burner...in short you have introduced numerous strawmen to prove your point when the only statement I made was wood does not have to be split.

About the last part of your sentence...you're exactly right.

As you have demonstrated remarkably.

Watch your first step, your perch on your high horse is a long ways up.

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