Killing unwanted trees, hack and squirt method

[dmccarty]

Back in FLA, I used to help try to control invasive plants on state land. We would use a plant killer mixed in diesel fuel that was in a 1-2 gallon sprayer. For trees we would remove the bark around the trunk and spray. For bush sized plants, we would just scrape away the bark with the boot and then spray. Some of these plants were very invasive and if you just killed the trunk, the roots would still sprout. One of the tree species would sprout from a dead trunk lying on the ground. The plant killer was to make sure the roots and trunk would not sprout.

I can't remember the plant killer. Seems like it was a 2,4 X chemical but this was decades ago. On our place I have used the DR mower to cut down Russian Olive and then spray the roots with Round Up which seems to work.

Later,
Dan

 

[ericm979]

I've been using 25% Triclopyr in diesel, applied directly to 12 to 18" of the trunk to kill poison oak. We have a lot, some in big bushes and other plants are the vine form with the leaves way up in trees. It takes about a month to kill them. It works better and uses less herbicide than foliar application. Best results are when the plant is actively growing. I also use it on cut stumps of trees that resprout. The diesel helps it stick to the bark and not just run off.

With trees I prefer to cut the tree down then treat the stump if needed to prevent resprouting. Some of our tree species like bay and eucalyptus are agressive resprouters and will keep coming back if you don't kill the roots.

I prefer Triclopyr to Glyphosphate because it's broad leaf specific. The firs are the one species we have that doesn't resprout. So it's not there killing everything. Triclopyr also doesn't last as long in the soil as Glyphosphate. It's more expensive but my only uses are as described above and only on 20 acres, so I'm not going through a lot of it. One gallon of 62% may last me a couple years.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Like glyphosate, triclopyr is long out of patent. Shop around, you will find it pretty cheap. As long as you are not spraying it over a large area, drift is no concern, so triclopyr 4 will be fine. The local farmer's co-op sells 2.5 gallons for $62 and 2.5 gallons of glyphosate for $55. If you are doing slash and squirt, 2.5 gallons should do about 150 trees.

 

[fishheadbob]

Like glyphosate, triclopyr is long out of patent. Shop around, you will find it pretty cheap. As long as you are not spraying it over a large area, drift is no concern, so triclopyr 4 will be fine. The local farmer's co-op sells 2.5 gallons for $62 and 2.5 gallons of glyphosate for $55. If you are doing slash and squirt, 2.5 gallons should do about 150 trees.

Correct. I think you could get a lot more than 150 trees with that much triclopyr (Garlon).
Some species of tree like beech or locust propagate by underground root suckers as well as seeds so they might need a return visit next year.

 

[mvwwld4u]

The method of hack and squirt is typically referred to as the hypo-hatchet technique. A true hypo-hatchet actually was a hatchet with a tubing running inside the handle and into the head with a small port to eject the chemical from a backpack tank into the cambium layer upon striking the tree. Most companies that used this method only wanted the trees to be hit a few times each rather than complete girdling because of time and chemical use. Do a google search on hypo-hatchet and I'm sure all the chemical information will be found. If memory serves me correctly though, I think garlon was a pretty popular choice.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

Most companies that used this method only wanted the trees to be hit a few times each rather than complete girdling because of time and chemical use.

Not sure I understand what you mean here. Maybe you can explain.

 

[Barry 1]

:

 

[mvwwld4u]

Not sure I understand what you mean here. Maybe you can explain.

Girdling the tree is cutting all the way around the tree, typically just through the bark and cambium layers.

 

[RalphVa]

I'd not squirt but paint with concentrated glyphosate or Roundup. Haven't actually done this.

Usually cut and paint onto stub of what I cut. Paint immediately. Works well on most anything. With a Tree of Heaven stump right after woodcutters took it down. Never got any saplings from it.

 

[hslogger]

I'd not squirt but paint with concentrated glyphosate or Roundup. Haven't actually done this.

Usually cut and paint onto stub of what I cut. Paint immediately. Works well on most anything. With a Tree of Heaven stump right after woodcutters took it down. Never got any saplings from it.

Hack and squirt with the various nasty herbicides are effective , often better results with seasonal timing. Regional species do have their quirks and often you can get the straight scoop from your local certified arborist and or extension agents. It usually isn't necessary to use the baddest stuff on the market.
That said, read the labels, wear proper protection.

Cutting the tree off at the stump, and treating the fresh stump with concentrated round up or generics is the LEAST toxic in the big picture of things. Poking cuts with the tip of your chainsaw or big drill bit improves the effect, pour the stuff in the holes.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

I'd not squirt but paint with concentrated glyphosate or Roundup. Haven't actually done this..

Others have. That's why hack & squirt was invented.

 

[Jeff59Va]

Reviving and older thread here.

Question for you guys that have used hack and squirt or basal bark spraying – how long before you see any distress on the tree?

I have a grove of Tree of Heaven trees that I am trying to get a handle on. I treated a couple of weeks ago. Small sprout trees got sprayed with 2% glyphosate and they are showing signs of distress, mainly yellow leaves. Some of the largest ones I treated with hack and squirt, using straight Triclopyr (Garlon 4 generic). Some of the mid-sized ones I treated with basal bark spraying with a 20% Triclopyr in diesel fuel. The larger and mid sized ones are showing no distress at all, so I am wondering if I did something wrong, or just not enough time has passed. Is 2 weeks long enough to see any changes?

And a related question. These trees are all coming down eventually and I will replant with some native trees. From my reading about Tree of Heaven control, the game plan seems to be to slowly kill the mature trees so they do not send up a bunch of shoots from the roots. But if I plan to remove them anyway, is there any reason not to just cut them now and treat the cut stump with my 20% Triclopyr in diesel mixture?

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Girdle the larger trees, dead in weeks. This means remove the bark about 6 to 8 inches wide around the circumference of the tree.

 

[OldMcDonald]

I used to have a bit more than 3000 acres in Australia. Apart from the real desert areas most of Australia was originally all dense eucalyptus. Literally millions of acres were cleared by initially killing the trees by ring barking. That is a complete circle of axe cuts right around the tree and breaking the cambium layer. This was done at the most convenient height for the man. Men did this in the 1930s just for food, no pay.

I guess it took a while for them to die because my back paddock of 1000 acres was pretty well all regrown. The rest had been kept clear except some pine had been left and without the eucalypt competition they thrived and set seed up to a 50 yard circle with trees as close as 2 to 3 inches apart. Only finger thick of course, but the ground was totally useless.

I did a fair bit of narrow bladed axe cuts every few inches around the tree, again at a convenient height, and carried a back pack sheep drench set up - bag, tube and dosing gun. I used both tordon and garlon. Both worked and it took a little time, but the trees died. I also did some spot treatment on the ground, but the ground must be bare soil. Any vegetation is likely to take up the chemical instead of getting down to the tree roots. This is easier, but can be more expensive.

See this leaflet for both tree killing methods as well as general weed control http://www.fmccrop.com.au/download/herbicides/label/timba_label_au.pdf

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Slash and squirt is your path. The trees will be dead next spring. Basal application is on a fresh stump to stop suckering and regrowth. Glyphosate will yellow some leaves, but won't harm the tree.

 

[sixdogs]

I cut a chainsaw width cut around the base of the tree, maybe an inch deep, brush in straight 41% glyphosate--Roundup--and the tree will die. Must put the Roundup on ASAP and after 1/2 hour is too late. That's all that's needed. I girdle kill in the fall after leaves are gone and it air dries on the stump over the winter. Really easy.

 

[ericm979]

20% Triclopyr in diesel as a basal application can take a few weeks or even a month to kill the leaves.

Cutting the tree down and spraying the stump with the same mixture will work just as well.

"straight" triclopyr out of the container can vary from 8% to 64% actual triclopyr. I've not seen 100% yet.