1949 8N Won't Start

   / 1949 8N Won't Start #81  
The way it's running right now, I don't think I need to pull anything else off the tractor. If it starts to run bad, I'll look at the valves then.

Agreed, I'm not sure how a bad spark discussion got a stuck valve comment anyway... ;)
 
   / 1949 8N Won't Start
  • Thread Starter
#84  
I have no clue. Ask Soundguy, he the one who told me how to fix it. This is the first time it has started reliably in the year I have had it.
 
   / 1949 8N Won't Start #85  
"It's the carburetor".
The next time that you smell gas and see it dripping from the carb, it won't "start reliably".
Happy tractoring, but keep this in mind. :)
 
   / 1949 8N Won't Start #86  
Congrats on getting it going.
 
   / 1949 8N Won't Start #87  
So if it ran a few months ago hooked up wrong.... why the problems now?

creeping corrosion.

When you setup an ignition system, and all the parts are new, shiney, clean, bright and tight, the resistance issue for the primary is more of a range than a fixed number. Once you hit enough primary resistance so that the coil doesn't get thermally damaged, and that you are not damaging the points, then you can run.. but.. that magic number can be a pretty significant range. it could be 2.85 ohms to 5 ohms.. depending on the coil ( and yeah.. chinese made 12v coils are ALL OVER the place in terms of dc resistance on their primary... it's hard 2 buy 2 from the same manufacturer and get the same reading... I've checked! ).

Now.. what this means is that 2 running systems side by side may have 2+ ohms different in their primary resistance. both make spark and run.

If one has a perfectly tuned carb, and good clean connections.. it's spark could be a little weak but still run.

Add in a year of setting in a barn.. points surface area decreases a bit from micro pitting. and an oxide layer forms, coil that was made in some sweat house had a few more or less winds than the next coil, and some of the wire insulation on a few turns were marginal, so you have some shorted turns after a couple years of heat cycles... bat cables are only 70% battery has aged, nominal coltage is down .02 vdc. wire connection on top of coil is getting some corrosion on the brass contacts.. the pigtail setting in the points concave screw has lost some copper wash and it's surface contact resistance has gone up .5%, the air gap at the distribuitor cap posts and the rotor has widened 2$ from arc jumping.... etc, etc. Add all that up and you have a machine that was running with too much resistance .. but 2 years later.. enough 'stacked' tolerances' added up and suddenly that magic 'range' was exceeded and it went from running to non running. Removing that resistor that wasn't needed thru it back into that magic range.
 
   / 1949 8N Won't Start #89  
creeping corrosion.

When you setup an ignition system, and all the parts are new, shiney, clean, bright and tight, the resistance issue for the primary is more of a range than a fixed number. Once you hit enough primary resistance so that the coil doesn't get thermally damaged, and that you are not damaging the points, then you can run.. but.. that magic number can be a pretty significant range. it could be 2.85 ohms to 5 ohms.. depending on the coil ( and yeah.. chinese made 12v coils are ALL OVER the place in terms of dc resistance on their primary... it's hard 2 buy 2 from the same manufacturer and get the same reading... I've checked! ).

Now.. what this means is that 2 running systems side by side may have 2+ ohms different in their primary resistance. both make spark and run.

If one has a perfectly tuned carb, and good clean connections.. it's spark could be a little weak but still run.

Add in a year of setting in a barn.. points surface area decreases a bit from micro pitting. and an oxide layer forms, coil that was made in some sweat house had a few more or less winds than the next coil, and some of the wire insulation on a few turns were marginal, so you have some shorted turns after a couple years of heat cycles... bat cables are only 70% battery has aged, nominal coltage is down .02 vdc. wire connection on top of coil is getting some corrosion on the brass contacts.. the pigtail setting in the points concave screw has lost some copper wash and it's surface contact resistance has gone up .5%, the air gap at the distribuitor cap posts and the rotor has widened 2$ from arc jumping.... etc, etc. Add all that up and you have a machine that was running with too much resistance .. but 2 years later.. enough 'stacked' tolerances' added up and suddenly that magic 'range' was exceeded and it went from running to non running. Removing that resistor that wasn't needed thru it back into that magic range.

Excellent explanation!
Thank you.....
From another 8N owner.
 
   / 1949 8N Won't Start
  • Thread Starter
#90  
I've never had anything explained so simply and thoroughly to me before. Again, thanks for everything Soundguy. I had the tractor out yesterday blading over badger holes on my property. I'd actually forgot how much fun this little old tractor is to drive/operate.
 

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