Drill bits for metal work.

[N80]

I've been doing more projects lately requiring drilling in metal. For instance, homemade winch mount for my car/tractor trailer. Drilling through some fairly hard and thick stuff. Some of the cheap multipurpose bits I have won't last long enough to drill one hole.

To make things worse, I know little to nothing about drill bits.

I do various backyard/basement/driveway DIY jobs and fabrication projects. I don't mind paying for decent tools that match the sort of jobs I want to do. But, I'm also not a professional and do not need tools/equipment that has to be perfect 24/7.

So I guess my question is what do I need to look for in metal drilling bits, usually 1" and down? What are good brand names I need to look for. My next question is, is it better to buy high end stuff that will last longer or cheap stuff that I throw away? All drill bits will get dull at some point. Third question, is a bit sharpener worth the money/time/effort.

Thanks for any input here.

 

[bunyip]

Have you considered step drills for large holes, I hear they make life a lot easier.
I have bought tool manufacturers bits but I'm pretty sure they don't make them eg DeWalt-Hitachi etc.
We use Sutton but I think it is a local product so not much use to you.
Cheap stuff generally costs more so I bite the bullet and part with the cash although I did buy a cheap belt sander for a one of job 20 years ago, it is still in my shed somewhere.

 

[hosspuller]

For drilling metal be sure to use a cutting fluid. Will make your drill bits last longer and cut cleaner. Also consider the grind angle and for large sizes a split point.

A sharpener is dependent on your drill volume and sizes. More drilling and larger sizes make a sharpener easily justified.

 

[/pine]

Over 1/2" things get tougher to drill especially in steel etc. that is 1/4" or thicker...Uni-bits work well in thinner stock...

keeping bits cool (oil / cutting fluid) is paramount as well as low speed...

The "Drill Dr." type sharpeners do a great job but the price goes up for larger sized bits 1/2"+

There are some very good videos on how to sharpen larger bits with a grinding wheel to keep them cutting well. on youtube.

If you happen into a project that requires a large quantity of holes that are not too big say 5/8" or less...most machine/welding shops can punch the holes easier than they can often be drilled FWIW...

 

[RNeumann]

Over 1/2" things get tougher to drill especially in steel etc. that is 1/4" or thicker...Uni-bits work well in thinner stock...

keeping bits cool (oil / cutting fluid) is paramount as well as low speed...

The "Drill Dr." type sharpeners do a great job but the price goes up for larger sized bits 1/2"+

There are some very good videos on how to sharpen larger bits with a grinding wheel to keep them cutting well. on youtube.

If you happen into a project that requires a large quantity of holes that are not too big say 5/8" or less...most machine/welding shops can punch the holes easier than they can often be drilled FWIW...

I have a drill dr that will do up to 3/4”. The thing works awesome.

I’ve had good luck with Irwin. Honestly though- with the drill dr I just buy the middle of the road at the big box stores if I break something in my drill index.

IMHO- anyone who lives in the country or would otherwise be hung up on a project if a bit went dull should have a drill dr or another way to sharpen bits. No reason to end a project because of a little $5 consumable product.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I use hole cutters rather than twist drills, wherever possible. They drill rounder, more accurate holes, and with less effort. They can be used with a hand-held drill or a drill press. For twist drills, I get them from McMaster-Carr, the quality is reliable. I hand sharpen bits 1/2" and larger on a bench grinder. Smaller bits I just replace.

Small hole cutters:

Blair 11 Rotobroach Cutter Kit Hole Saw Kit - Hole Saw Sets - Amazon.com

Larger hole cutters:

Amazon.com: champion hole cutter

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. Good advice. I do use cutting oil. Will look into the Drill Dr. and the hole cutters. Thinking about recent projects I'd say most of the holes are less than 3/4".

 

[Redlands Okie]

Keep the RPM down slow. As in being able to see details on it as it turns. Allows your cutting oil to keep the bit cool. Lots of pressure on a slow bit usually is ok. Fast RPM and the bit is soon to be useless. I usually know i am doing fine when i see curly cues metal shavings coming off the bit or hole or at least larger chips. Small dust like particles tell me i am doing something wrong.

 

[Industrial Toys]

An old GF bought me a Drill Dr. 3/4". At first I had good results and then I couldn't sharpen a bit nicely to save my life.

I have had sets of those gold and titanium drill bits, usually on sale. They are crap compared to industrial bits. I have various black industrial bits and have had them for decades without sharpening.

You need to spend the bucks to get good bits. I can never get myself to do it.

 

[marchanna]

A set Cobalt bits will stay sharp a little longer and get you through some of the harder metal. Look for a split point drill, it will cut a little freer. Larger diameter drills require lower rpm and high pressure. Small diameter drills will need higher rpms.

If you're using your bits in a hand drill, then you probably won't notice a difference between the high quality and cheap stuff. But if you're using them in a drill press or a mill, quality is the difference between 20 holes and a 1000 holes.

I´ve never used a Drill Dr, so I can't comment on how well they work, but having sharpened tens of thousands of drills in my life, I would say that sharpening drills is worth it if you are consuming a lot - but that's only the case if you don't wear them down too much before you sharpen them.