Lights, Switches, Electric Chute Rotator

[AaronGoulais]

I have been at this little project for a while. After some research through the various forums I was able to narrow down my needs.

1) Electric chute rotator
2) LED Lights (can`t see anything at night, snowblowing would be difficult)
3) Some sort of switches, location being the issue.
4) Lastly, power source.

I began with dismantling the power seat out of my neighbours 2004 Chevrolet. I was able to get two (one for backup) power seat motors. After testing, the motors seem to fair well with the load of my snowblower chute. I needed to determine what kind of switch I will need to power this, how much the motors draw (AMPS) and where I can mount the switches.

So, I purchased a 9 x 6 x3in Mastercraft Maximum clear waterproof box, 2x WP toggle switches (for lights) and 2x DPDT momentary on switches (chute rotation and eventually deflector actuator) and 4x 18watt Cree LED spot lights (2x forward, 2x reverse). Of course all the wire, connectors and 3x inline fuses.

My power source is the Aux lighting circuit that comes standard with my BX at the rear of tractor (left of toplink). The circuit is rated 20amps, and I believe I am within 75% capacity of that circuit. I did my best to make it look neat and tidy. Finishing touches still need apply (split loom for wires, and paint for lights mount)

I am trying to add pictures and a video.

 

[AaronGoulais]

The following link is for the video of the chute rotating, unfinished at this point.
Electric Snowblower Chute Rotator - YouTube

 

[Stomper]

Nice work. Those lights make a huge difference. The stock lights on my L2501 were pretty much useless because as soon as I raised the bucket for traveling it blocked the light. I also installed a forward and reverse light bar. Now it lights up my whole yard just like yours.

 

[AaronGoulais]

Nice work. Those lights make a huge difference. The stock lights on my L2501 were pretty much useless because as soon as I raised the bucket for traveling it blocked the light. I also installed a forward and reverse light bar. Now it lights up my whole yard just like yours.

I was concerned with how the clear box was going to look, I think it turned out pretty good.

 

[Stomper]

Yeah it actually looks kinda cool. It makes you have to be very neat and tidy electrician.

 

[Fallon]

Just remember fuses are there to protect the wire, not the devices plugged in. Make sure you always have a fuse with an equal or preferably lesser rating than the ampacity of the wire it's protecting. Best practices is to run the smallest fuse that won't blow while powering the device. It gives you more headroom to protect things.

Seat motors might not like being exposed to snow & moisture. But at the junk pile prices it may not be worth caring.

Get noticably bigger switches than you think you need or use relays. When a motor stops getting power, it turns into a generator as it spins down. The voltage spike when that motor/generator spins down & the power has nowhere to go is significant. It will wear out or fry switches in relatively short order. A flyback diode Flyback diode - Wikipedia would be the usual answer, but that would cause issues with running the motor in reverse. Other snubber Snubber - Wikipedia configurations may be more appropriate here.

 

[AaronGoulais]

I haven't quite finished the "clean-up" I intend on covering up everything. When speaking to the fuses, that is exactly what I did. 3, 5, 7 amp fuses blew when the chute came to a stop. 10amp seems to be sufficient, yet still protective. You completely lose me going to flyback and snubber. Rocker switches are 20 amp and toggle are 25 amp, hoping this is sufficient.

 

[Bentru]

Nice work. My only suggestion is not to route the wires thru the top link pin handle. They tend to rotate with vibration and your wires might not appreciate that.

 

[Fallon]

I haven't quite finished the "clean-up" I intend on covering up everything. When speaking to the fuses, that is exactly what I did. 3, 5, 7 amp fuses blew when the chute came to a stop. 10amp seems to be sufficient, yet still protective. You completely lose me going to flyback and snubber. Rocker switches are 20 amp and toggle are 25 amp, hoping this is sufficient.

It won't be to horrible to just go with that & wait to see if it fails. If it does, wory about it then.

 

[MoDMaN007]

Nice work.....Way to use that Goulais spirit and salvage what you need.

I used a Power window motor for mine and it has been going strong for 4 years now...still need to build a box around it. If your unsure of the switches ability to handle the load then use a relay.