Looking to purchase a MF, which one is enough?

[jeff9366]

Be sure to collect a brochure on every model you test and are interested in.

 

[nalle]

Hi, Mike...
I recently got a quote of $33k total cost, shipped to me, for a new 2017 1736 with cab and HST. I thought that was a pretty good price but still more than I could pay.

Thanks Corgi,
kind of getting the feeling we should step up to the 30-35 HP Tractor, to have something we can keep for a long time. I'll head to the dealership and start to look at them, sit in them and what feels more right. I wish you the best of times with your new Tractor, did you buy local or have it shipped to you?

 

[redman135]

The "V" tread tyres I am refering to are avalible in ag or industrial. The important bit is that the "V" forms a 90 degree angle at the base. There are other "V" type treads that have a wider angle (120 degree approx) that don't stick to hillsides as well.

 

[jeff9366]

Getting the feeling we should step up to the 30-35 HP Tractor, to have something we can keep for a long time. I'll head to the dealership and start to look at them, sit in them and what feels more right.

Once you cross the 25-horsepower demarcation line, you pay for the full panalopy of "Tier iV" tractor emission controls. About +$3,000. Just be aware of why tractor prices jump $3,000 from <25-horsepower to over >25-horsepower.

For five acres, less your home, less your road, and the ability to garage store your tractor, consider if stepping up is cost effective. For the tasks you have listed, tractor weight is more important than tractor horsepower. MF 1726E @ 2,600 pounds, bare tractor, has pretty good weight. Operating weight with FEL, loaded tires, etc., will be around 4,000 pounds.

Tractor horsepower relates more to the ability to power larger capacity PTO implements. Rotary cutters are the most common PTO powered implements and the most power hungry.


I understand buying for the long term and I still advise: BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.

I bought three before achieving ENOUGH TRACTOR. It should have been two.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Be sure that you look at the ROPS bar height and compare that to your barn/garage opening for the models that you are considering. That height may help you eliminate some models. For me it was the Kubota L2501 that just wouldn't fit without folding down or cutting down the ROPS, but the Kubota B2650 would just make it. So that helped me decide between the two pretty quickly. I plan to build a large unattached garage in a couple years, and with that I can do taller doors, but for now I have what I have... And I'm not feeling the desire to play with the ROPS every time I want to use the machine.

Consider everything. Take your time. It's a major purchase and if you decide a year or 2 after buying new that you made a mistake, you'll likely loose thousands of dollars on the trade to move to what you should have bought to begin with.

My suggestion... Buy your first tractor used so that you can get out of it for nearly the same price you paid. Then when you know why you are selling what you thought you wanted but discovered that it's not enough, you take that first hand knowledge with you to go buy you brand new "last tractor you'll ever buy" unit. But it likely will not be the last, hopefully it will stick around long enough to pay it off before you trade it for the next shiny machine.

I bought my first one used a few months ago. I have a brand new B2650 ordered now and I'm trading the used BX25D in on it with no financial pain.

Just take your time.

 

[Tompet]

Reading through this post and looking at the Massey site, it appears there are four models you are considerating. The 1526 vs 1726e (which is the newest 1700 series model and likely 1526 replacement, the last 1500 series tractor available) and the 1734e vs premium 1736.

It would be nice if they have all four on the lot, but I have sat on a 1526 and it would be interesting for a direct comparison with the 1726e. I suspect the 1726e might be a nicer build and operator "feel". The 1726e shares same wheelbase size as next two larger "e" series models according to literature, so it has a larger stance than the 1526. And as Jeff pointed out more heft in the build. So like other brands it's Massey's new "under tier 4 final stuff" without associated electronics that the 1526 provided until 1726e model arrived.

I think you will notice an obvious difference in amenities, 3pt., seat, controls, loader, etc., between the 1734e and the premium 1736 and a little larger frame on the 1736. The premium 3pt. is nice but not sure if it's available on e series as an upgrade.

My suggestion is look at models in person sit on and check things out, and if unsure, go back another day because each time you look it allows you to notice other details and facts missed on initial visit. Good luck, enjoy the search, and get what you want first time...been there trading up. Btw, any other brands you are considering or is Massey chosen to simplify process! Post what you eventually decide!

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

If you're going to cross the 25hp river, better make it worth it. Buy bigger and buy something you'll enjoy operating (ie, ergonomics and trim level). My suggestion is to look at something in the 30-39hp range and get a "premium" trim level.

I bought a 1643 with FEL and while it's a very nice tractor that seems to exceed its listed performance specs, I frequently find myself running out of tractor on our 125 acre farm. A 1652 would have been the better choice and I wish I had bit the bullet and gone in that direction.

Listen to our advice on this matter: buy enough tractor. Buy bigger than you think you need.

 

[nalle]

Once you cross the 25-horsepower demarcation line, you pay for the full panalopy of "Tier iV" tractor emission controls. About +$3,000. Just be aware of why tractor prices jump $3,000 from <25-horsepower to over >25-horsepower.

Yes, I am bit worried about the the Tier Stuff. Bad experience with Trucks. Now just sticking with our old reliable Truck.
If I understand you correctly the 25HP would be plenty for the things we are planing to do, but the added weight of the Tractor will help with Stability, getting the work done and Safety. Correct?

Be sure that you look at the ROPS bar height and compare that to your barn/garage opening for the models that you are considering. That height may help you eliminate some models. For me it was the Kubota L2501 that just wouldn't fit without folding down or cutting down the ROPS, but the Kubota B2650 would just make it. So that helped me decide between the two pretty quickly. I plan to build a large unattached garage in a couple years, and with that I can do taller doors, but for now I have what I have... And I'm not feeling the desire to play with the ROPS every time I want to use the machine.
Consider everything. Take your time. It's a major purchase and if you decide a year or 2 after buying new that you made a mistake, you'll likely loose thousands of dollars on the trade to move to what you should have bought to begin with.
My suggestion... Buy your first tractor used so that you can get out of it for nearly the same price you paid. Then when you know why you are selling what you thought you wanted but discovered that it's not enough, you take that first hand knowledge with you to go buy you brand new "last tractor you'll ever buy" unit. But it likely will not be the last, hopefully it will stick around long enough to pay it off before you trade it for the next shiny machine.
I bought my first one used a few months ago. I have a brand new B2650 ordered now and I'm trading the used BX25D in on it with no financial pain.
Just take your time.

We don't have any Shed/Garage for the Tractor or anything else for the matter. Tractor will be a tool used to help with a build of said such Shed/Garage.
Used ones do exist, but are expensive around here. Well really New ones to, but new are easier to shop the price down. Example: New Yanmar 424 here is 17.5K as their best deal, used around 16K and I was able to shop down the MF 1526 to under 16K (with delivery).
Generally agree with used, but also don’t want to buy someone else problems and my local mechanic would do a Inspection. Though with us being out in the Woods, drive time would become a issue for him going 1 way 1-2 hours or more.

My suggestion is look at models in person sit on and check things out, and if unsure, go back another day because each time you look it allows you to notice other details and facts missed on initial visit. Good luck, enjoy the search, and get what you want first time...been there trading up. Btw, any other brands you are considering or is Massey chosen to simplify process! Post what you eventually decide!

Thanks, other Brands. Well we are open. Just want to have something that will be around in a couple years in case we need a Part, for that reason was looking at the “Bigger” Brands and not the pure China Company’s. Yers I do understand that all are pretty much in some way from the Asia side of the globe.

If you're going to cross the 25hp river, better make it worth it. Buy bigger and buy something you'll enjoy operating (ie, ergonomics and trim level). My suggestion is to look at something in the 30-39hp range and get a "premium" trim level.
Listen to our advice on this matter: buy enough tractor. Buy bigger than you think you need.

Thanks, advise is what we are looking for. So if we make the cup into the Tier 4 Stuff then make it to a nice one. Gotcha.
My wife ain’t liking it, but she never likes to spend anything. Lol


Thank you everyone.

Mike

 

[ID Corgi Ranch]

In my first post I meant to say I got a quote of $33k for a new 1742 with cab...not a 36. Not a great deal on a 36...but darn good on a 42.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

In my first post I meant to say I got a quote of $33k for a new 1742 with cab...not a 36. Not a great deal on a 36...but darn good on a 42.

That is a good quote.

In 2013, I bought my 1643 Hydro open station with FEL for $28,500.00.