Finally built a laser grading rig using my box blade.

[jenkinsph]

Yes, I used a top link to support my tongue , so i could adjust the angle, but I would use a hydraulic cylinder for doing what you are. The ball hitch should work out good, I use different stuff on my draw bar so I just built a swivel clevis. You’ve done a very nice job on your build.View attachment 545691View attachment 545692

My concern is setting the box blade with all this extra weight farther back may be more than my tractor can handle. I have been playing with basically the same tongue design as your pictures. I just decided to try out the 3 point hitch version first. When I raise the hitch the steering is touchy. Might have to double the front weights. That would help with my heavy roller too.

 

[Spiros]

I am continually astounded by the depth of knowledge found here in these pages. Thanks for the education guys!

 

[jenkinsph]

This is an excellent idea, and would be a great way to make the BB1284 quick hitch compatible, by mounting the 3 point mounts on the tongue in the correct location to line up with the quick hitch. I may use this.

In the next few weeks I should have the tongue worked out and can send you a cut and build sheet. I will post the pic in this thread.

 

[jenkinsph]

I appreciate your taking time to provide all this information. Certainly not an inexpensive project.

I modified a Landpride box blade as others have done by adding a hydraulic rockshaft to the rear but just pivot mounted and no parallel linkage and caster. The wheels are fairly close to the back of the box blade so no caster is needed even in 3PH mode. Your independent twin lift control sure adds a lot of capability to the package.

I used similar logic in determining the pros and cons of 3PH mounted versus tongue pulled and made a pin-on tongue so it could be used either way. Your flip-up tongue is more convenient and adds more weight for downforce when folded for 3PH use.

Would love to have the laser control but probably not going to happen with my hobby budget.

When I started these designs. A few years ago I knew then that the parallel linkage was the way to go. I looked at countless designs by others such as Level Best and just did not like the idea of the caster operating at an angle. It just made more sense to keep the caster swivel plumb for smooth turns at all height positions. I will post some better pictures showing the wheel carriers. They are heavy duty with no slop or play in the linkage.

 

[Piston]

In the next few weeks I should have the tongue worked out and can send you a cut and build sheet. I will post the pic in this thread.

That would be very much appreciated!

 

[bdog]

A friend of mine has a setup almost identical to what you built. He built his as well. Parallel linkage, and spectra electronics. He originally had two receivers but had problems with getting it to work right so now he just has one. He let me borrow it one weekend. Kind of crazy he didn’t even really show me how it worked but after thirty minutes of messing around I had it running. I laser leveled my roughly 100’ x 200’ parking area. The hardest part was getting the slope set right which I ultimately used my GPS to take measurements and calculate it. It is flat here or so we think but my land actually drops about 1’ in the 200’ direction and about 1’ in the 100’ direction. He had a dual slope laser so I set it up and entered the correct slopes and then it was just a matter of driving around. It works amazingly well and is super accurate. The hardest part if you are not trying to make something flat is setting the slope right on the laser.

 

[jenkinsph]

A friend of mine has a setup almost identical to what you built. He built his as well. Parallel linkage, and spectra electronics. He originally had two receivers but had problems with getting it to work right so now he just has one. He let me borrow it one weekend. Kind of crazy he didn’t even really show me how it worked but after thirty minutes of messing around I had it running. I laser leveled my roughly 100’ x 200’ parking area. The hardest part was getting the slope set right which I ultimately used my GPS to take measurements and calculate it. It is flat here or so we think but my land actually drops about 1’ in the 200’ direction and about 1’ in the 100’ direction. He had a dual slope laser so I set it up and entered the correct slopes and then it was just a matter of driving around. It works amazingly well and is super accurate. The hardest part if you are not trying to make something flat is setting the slope right on the laser.

Would love to see pictures of your friend's set up.

 

[npalen]

I thought that I understood the reason for caster wheels and the resulting need for the parallel lift linkage but now I'm not so sure. Is the need for casters brought about because of the distance of the wheels behind the blade? When pulling in the trailing mode is there any issue with the rig running off center on a steep side slope because of the castering?
I understand that turning while operating would require that the blade or the wheels slide sideways but that wouldn't seem to be a showstopper. Just trying to understand the dynamics since my rig is set up with just a pivoting lift as are most soil movers of the type.

 

[jenkinsph]

I thought that I understood the reason for caster wheels and the resulting need for the parallel lift linkage but now I'm not so sure. Is the need for casters brought about because of the distance of the wheels behind the blade? When pulling in the trailing mode is there any issue with the rig running off center on a steep side slope because of the castering?
I understand that turning while operating would require that the blade or the wheels slide sideways but that wouldn't seem to be a showstopper. Just trying to understand the dynamics since my rig is set up with just a pivoting lift as are most soil movers of the type.

First of all I have not put the caster locks on yet. I was just trying out the new rig to verify the hydraulic and electronic operation.

On a steep side slope the caster locks would help when releasing the dirt in low spots. In high spots while cutting the wheels will raise up clearing the ground.

The casters help reduce the stress in sharp turns, I can definitely tell the difference as the turns are very smooth. Making the orbital movements between the borders as you work down a field can stress every part of the machine. I am hoping that smooth turning casters help with this but time will tell.

 

[jenkinsph]

I also will switch to manual when I'm driving with an empty blade for another load. I feel that this helps keep the valves from operating more than necessary, therefor adding to it's lifespan and keeping the oil from overheating.

I will find out soon enough whether I will need to add a fan drive oil cooler in series with the return line. There are lots of these coolers available with DC fan motors. Such as the Cool-Line oil coolers that is a compact fan unit with flows up to 50 gpm. This is less than $500 and can really help lower the temperatures overall. Since the flow through the valve and the return line can be continuous this would help cool all the oil. Lower the temperature from heavy hydrostatic transmission loads would also benefit from this. Most of these newer tractors have a thick stack of coolers and accessories condenser coils and a cooler on the box blade would help with this.

 

[RDrancher]

Well buddy, that's a pretty cool setup you have there. But to be honest...you had me sold with the vette wheels... :thumbsup: We were up your way last fall doing a drive-by, but I didn't have your number with me at the time. We'll plan to get back out sometime later this year to beat the heat for a few days. Maybe you'll even let me regrade your front yard with the new setup. Hey...a guy can dream right?

 

[jenkinsph]

John,
Any time you're over this way you can test it out. All day long.

 

[npalen]

Well buddy, that's a pretty cool setup you have there. But to be honest...you had me sold with the vette wheels... :thumbsup: We were up your way last fall doing a drive-by, but I didn't have your number with me at the time. We'll plan to get back out sometime later this year to beat the heat for a few days. Maybe you'll even let me regrade your front yard with the new setup. Hey...a guy can dream right?

Good to see you back here, John! Haven't heard much from you lately. Always enjoyed your comments and pics. Don't be a stranger.

 

[Rustyiron]

Good to see you back here, John! Haven't heard much from you lately. Always enjoyed your comments and pics. Don't be a stranger.

What he said ^^:laughing:
What machinery are you running these days? I remember you had issues with the Case CTL and there was a Kubota involved, rental iirc.

 

[MidTn Mark]

Very nice...

So... 15k to not look like an idiot with a box blade?

Bargain.

 

[RDrancher]

Good to hear from you guys as well. I haven't been doing much of anything online for quite awhile. I'll have to make a few updates.

Very nice...

So... 15k to not look like an idiot with a box blade?

Bargain.

Yeah..all that wanting to provide the customer with a better job and leaving the lesser equipped competition in the dust is just dumb, right?

 

[Complete Turf Care]

I have an outboard knob with a switch for auto/manual operation. It is currently just to the right of the control panel. Just have not had time yet to pick a good mounting spot for it. It has about 10 ft. of wire on it so it will fit somewhere.

My hydraulics can be set to a time limited response, so after the cylinders have had enough time to cycle it will shut off to prevent dead heading the pump. I still need to get a better handle of all the built in functions.

The black knob is over the rear view mirror inside the cab.

I put several hours on my rig again today. This is a pic of my control box. The switch on the top right switches between manual and auto. The bottom right is for operating the blade while in manual mode. The middle button is the on/off button. Behind the 2 knobs on the bottom are the adjustments.

One adjustment is to adjust the 'dead zone' on the receiver. The other adjustment changes the reaction time of the valve.

I usually start a job with a wider 'dead zone' on the receiver and slower reaction time. As I get closer to a finished grade, I will reduce the 'dead zone' and increase the reaction time.

 

[MidTn Mark]

Good to hear from you guys as well. I haven't been doing much of anything online for quite awhile. I'll have to make a few updates.



Yeah..all that wanting to provide the customer with a better job and leaving the lesser equipped competition in the dust is just dumb, right?

Possibly my answer was not interpreted correctly? I think what he built is incredibly cool. The guy that looks like an idiot using a box blade is me.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I am impressed!

Like they said on Hee Haw,

Sal-loot!

 

[npalen]

I'm guessing you are running open center valves and, if so, with power beyond?