Modern equal to mythical Stihl 026 chainsaw?

[yomax4]

(Pardon me, OP, but I gotta butt in right here....)

Yomax4, what did you do to modify the muffler?
I have read where others have discussed muffler modifications, but haven't learned if such a mod is applicable to a MS250....any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in Advance!

BarnieTrk :drink:

I bought an adjustable carb 1st. The one it had could have been messed with to make it adjustable but the carbs are less cost than a kit so i went that route. My muffler didn't have much inside other than a baffle that I drilled a 3/8 hole in and on the outside toward the blade side of the exit I did a 1/4" hole and bent the exit a little so the smoke would go toward the bar. Re-tuned so that it would 4 stroke running wide open until under load. My bigger saws i did similar except the 44 mag I gutted the muffler, Brazed in a 3/8 elbow as an additional exit hole and took it to be adjusted with a tach on it. She's a Loud Dog now though. I saw where others on here did muff mods so i had to try it mostly just for fun.

 

[xyz123]

Just muffler modded this 026. Sounds pretty good to me for 44mm 49cc.

Gave it a new heart yesterday and cleaned up the scored cylinder and then put a fresh crosshatching in.

 

[grsthegreat]

Just muffler modded this 026. Sounds pretty good to me for 44mm 49cc.

Gave it a new heart yesterday and cleaned up the scored cylinder and then put a fresh crosshatching in.

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cool. i just love my 026 saw. i bought it back in 1996ish, and use it every year since. it does get heavy at times....then again im alot older. but still starts with only a few tugs.

 

[John_Mc]

I am far from an expert too, but have found this to NOT be true more often than not.

First, I would never mod a saw without a tach and the knowledge to tune. Because improper tune will destroy a saw in no time.

But too many times I read of people being told to "richen" up a saw if they mod it....and you may very well be defeating the purpose of the mod by doing so. So a good tach and some knowledge is a MUST

But on to the "technical" aspect of it.......a carburetor is nothing more than a fuel metering device. And the amount of fuel being sucked into the engine......via the carb......is directly proportional to the air flow.

So people think by doing a muffler mod to help a saw "breath" that they need more fuel to compensate. And they arent wrong. But the carb already does that. Because more air...also means more fuel is being sucked in. Up to the limits of what the jets can flow. Thats why with hotrodders...be it two stroke or 4....guys change carb jets.

I have seen too many saws that someone has hacked on a muffler....turned the mix up....and are left with a saw that is noisy, burns more fuel, and doesn't preform any better than stock or even worst.

On the surface, it would seem a carb would work that way, but if you make a significant change, it's likely you will need to adjust. They are not perfect instruments, and variations in back pressure, fuel type, temperature, etc all can throw the carb off a bit. If you read my first post, you'll note I said "adjust", not "richen up". I do agree that just blindly enrichening the mixture is a dumb way to react to this. (On newer saws, people might get away with it, since most of them come from the factory set on the bleeding edge of being too lean in order to meet EPA regs.) Tune the mixture properly, or take it to someone who knows how to do it right.

I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but I've been told by a guy who modifies chainsaws (and much more extensively than just muffler mods) that the carbs in a typical chainsaw are only "in tune" at two throttle settings: idle and wide-open-throttle - midrange is just sort of a "close enough" situation (which is why you are not supposed to run them at part throttle). Since a muffler mod changes what WOT is, you need to retune.

 

[tomplum]

(Pardon me, OP, but I gotta butt in right here....)

Yomax4, what did you do to modify the muffler?
I have read where others have discussed muffler modifications, but haven't learned if such a mod is applicable to a MS250....any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in Advance!

BarnieTrk :drink:

Earlier this year I did the muffler mod on my MS250 , which is ~ a 2003 model. I opened the inside up so it was as big as the port and brought the deflector open a bit more and left the screen in. It woke up nicely. I could get it to 15,000 RPMS Adjusted it back to 14,500.

 

[goeduck]

I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but I've been told by a guy who modifies chainsaws (and much more extensively than just muffler mods) that the carbs in a typical chainsaw are only "in tune" at two throttle settings: idle and wide-open-throttle - midrange is just sort of a "close enough" situation (which is why you are not supposed to run them at part throttle). Since a muffler mod changes what WOT is, you need to retune.

I am the type that likes to keep everything stock. Kudos to those that can do a good mod.

 

[yomax4]

On the surface, it would seem a carb would work that way, but if you make a significant change, it's likely you will need to adjust. They are not perfect instruments, and variations in back pressure, fuel type, temperature, etc all can throw the carb off a bit. If you read my first post, you'll note I said "adjust", not "richen up". I do agree that just blindly enrichening the mixture is a dumb way to react to this. (On newer saws, people might get away with it, since most of them come from the factory set on the bleeding edge of being too lean in order to meet EPA regs.) Tune the mixture properly, or take it to someone who knows how to do it right.

I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but I've been told by a guy who modifies chainsaws (and much more extensively than just muffler mods) that the carbs in a typical chainsaw are only "in tune" at two throttle settings: idle and wide-open-throttle - midrange is just sort of a "close enough" situation (which is why you are not supposed to run them at part throttle). Since a muffler mod changes what WOT is, you need to retune.

I only did this for fun that's it. I'm not at all an expert. I saw some of the guys on here had done it so I looked into it. I did an 026 Pro, 034 EQS, 039 and an 044M. The only one I had trouble with was the 044 so I took it to a Tune Guru. I did a crap load of research before I messed with my saws. The smaller saws are only worth a couple hundred bucks so I wasn't too worried. You just have to know that it's tuned correctly before you have at it on a log. Absolutely does eat more gas but each saw cuts like one model size bigger than it is except for the 044. It acts like a Motocross bike. I absolutely Love my 039 with Muff Mod too. Cheap saw with a big heart and lungs
.. Good luck messing with your saws.

 

[5030]

My father bought a Stihl 026 back around 1990, we estimate 1990 as the latest possible year as that was when he built his house out on farm property and had the saw. He thinks it may have been purchased a year or two earlier.

The saw has been a total beast, a workhorse that has no equals. This thing is near mythical in it's tireless performance and near zero down time. But one day, even the mightiest beast will die. So I am starting to consider a new Stihl that can attempt to replace the light weight, high power, ultra reliable and insanely durable 026 model.

Are saws today made to the same caliber of this legendary steed, or is there no real modern equal of a saw of such stature as the legendary 026?

I really would like to stay with Stihl, as this saw has proven to be so durable and long lasting that I have no good reason to look for "better" brands, I am not so sure a better brand could possibly exist.

If your a Chainsaw guru, please enlighten me on what is out there today that can be considered a suitable match to the 026.

I still have an use mine. Bought in new about the same time as your dad did. Been through a few bars, loops and drive sprockets. I don't see it ever failing. I like to because unlike the modern Stihl's, there is very little plastic except the top shroud and top handle, everything else is light alloy and it's an RPM saw too. Positively screams and no noise police muffler too. Mine has the optional heated handgrip for cold weather use as well. Excellent saw. No plastic to fail and runs like a raped ape. I run .325 chipper chain. Considered .404 but never switched.

 

[Deere Dude]

I bought a new 026 around 1998 and love it. But I got sick of waiting for it to chew through large oaks. I bought a new Echo 620p that can rip through the same log in 1/3 the time and much easier that the 026. I would never sell my 026 though because it is light and durable and a good runner.

 

[Raul-02]

or is there no real modern equal of a saw of such stature as the legendary 026?

you'll be wantin' the MS 881 with the 41" bar.