Mowing Kubota B2650 not enough power for FDR2572 mower?

[SDT]

I run the wheel and tire package that is optional when buying the B3350SU.
According to a Kubota engineer response, it costs me 7.?? Percent of the designed gear reduction.

But, it adds a lot more fluid fill weight for my hills, it takes my width to 60.5" in the rear, it gives more aggressive tread design and it has much greater surface area... So it has at the least, equal or possibly less ground pressure per square inch to allow for less damage the grass.

Oh, and it looks cool as heck View attachment 550173View attachment 550174View attachment 550175View attachment 550176

Great photos of the standard/Optional R4 tires.

I bought a new B3350 this past Wednesday. I specified standard R4 tires because I may use it with a MMM in the future. I did not buy a MMM at this time.

I'm replacing a very good late model Ford 8N with the 3350. I use the 8N only to pull a 60" rotary cutter in areas that do not look well if I use one of my larger tractor/mower combinations.

I try to keep overall tire width more narrow than mower cutting width. The B3350, with AG, turf or standard R-4 tires is well within 60." I did not know the overall width of the Optional R-4 tire package.

I can live with 60.5". I just measured the overall width of my 8N with one size oversize tires (12.4X28) adjusted about as close as possible without fender clearance with tire chains and it is about 63+". No significant issues with mowing quality.

This week, I will change my tire specification to the optional R-4s so as to increase ballast weight and contact patch. If I ever decide to install a MMM on this tractor, I will buy a set of turf tires/rims.

Good thread.

SDT

 

[Rock Crawler]

Note that I'm at 60.5" rear width WITH the kubota 1.5" wheel spacers added, so 57.5" with the optional tires and no spacers. I believe it's 54" with no spacers and the standard R4 tires.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I need all the width I can muster

 

[MossRoad]

I run the wheel and tire package that is optional when buying the B3350SU.
According to a Kubota engineer response, it costs me 7.?? Percent of the designed gear reduction.

But, it adds a lot more fluid fill weight for my hills, it takes my width to 60.5" in the rear, it gives more aggressive tread design and it has much greater surface area... So it has at the least, equal or possibly less ground pressure per square inch to allow for less damage the grass.

Oh, and it looks cool as heck View attachment 550173View attachment 550174View attachment 550175View attachment 550176

Gotcha. The taller tires will definately hurt you on hill climbing ability. 7% doesn't seem like much, though.

Again, I have to wonder why it won't go up the hill in L range any better than M range? Just doesn't make sense.

 

[SDT]

Note that I'm at 60.5" rear width WITH the kubota 1.5" wheel spacers added, so 57.5" with the optional tires and no spacers. I believe it's 54" with no spacers and the standard R4 tires.

Even better. Thank you.

SDT

 

[The Fred]

Keep the mower, trade the tractor and problem solved.

Kioti CK3510 or in that range, you'll absolutely love mowing again.

Regards, Fred

 

[Rock Crawler]

An update to the situation for you all who may have interest...

Kubota B2650 with LP FDR2572 mower part 2 - YouTube

 

[JWR]

So the video illustrates that you don't have the weight you need on the front to steer properly without the loader, you don't have the power to comfortably pull the mower (even when there is no grass being cut) with the loader. I don't think you could call it comfortable margin even without the loader. It just seems to me you have proven (more ways than most users ever try to) that you just don't have an adequate tractor for that mower. Lots of education in there for you (and the rest of us) but that is the bottom line.

I don't know that it is written in stone anywhere, but if you can't run whatever rear attachment you want with plenty of margin while carrying the loader then you are marginal and not robust. Not where you want to be. For the long run you are always better off robust with plenty of margin to spare. My opinion.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I wouldn't disagree. I say that it's doable, not optimal. While another 10 or 15 hp would be just grand, I'm $31,000 in on this machine that is 3 months old. So for the next couple years I'll be staying right here and dealing with it.

That also gives everyone 2 or 3 more years to play with the federal emissions systems before I move to something with more power under the hood.

 

[JWR]

Sure. Understand that !