Slope Question

[aczlan]

You think the lesser weight from the FEL is better gone than if I'm carrying it low, just above the ground? I figured that weight, on balance, would be better on the tractor.

I would say to leave it on and low enough to be just above the ground for the first few mowings. That way you can find stumps and rocks with the bucket instead of with the front axle or the underside of the tractor.

Aaron Z

 

[jajiu]

You might want to think about a 'tiltmeter' like they have in the site store. I bought one because I have a lot of hills and uneven areas on my property.

 

[ericm979]

4wd is useful in any sketchy situation because that's how you get braking on the front wheels- the rear wheel brakes slow the drivetrain. Also keep in mind that the front axle has a pivot where it attaches to the frame. So the sideways tilt of the tractor is solely determined by the terrain under the rear tires. If a rear wheel goes into a hole the tractor will tilt even if the front wheels are on level ground.

When I got my new tractor last year I got it with smaller diameter wheels & tires to lower the CG, rear axle spacers, and the rear tires loaded. Our land is steep and I wanted the tractor to be as stable as possible. When mowing steep terrain I go mostly up and down and make my turns where the slope is less. I've tried mowing with the bucket off but loader still on. There's a noticeable reduction in stability than with the bucket on and kept low.

 

[davidcbaker]

I've tried mowing with the bucket off but loader still on. There's a noticeable reduction in stability than with the bucket on and kept low.

Thanks. Good to know. I'll try it both ways.

 

[rScotty]

I'm newer and have done what I could on the search side, scouring Youtube, etc., but still have a succinct (I hope) question. Manual doesn't seem to address this.

Equipment: Kubota M5-111 pulling LP 3615 (15 batwing). has wheel weights. LA1854 loader (could take it off if I need to). Rear wheels have not been widened. I haven't planned on filing tires, though I could.

Land is full of 8-degree slopes with a few steeper ones at 12-degrees.

If I take my time and am not an idiot, would that slope scare any of you?

Thanks!

Slopes always scare me.

BTW, when looking up information about slopes, keep in mind that most slopes are given in terms of percentage or gradient rather than in degrees. For small angles, % grade is is roughly twice what the slope measured in degrees.

So your 12 degree slope is about a 22% grade. A 45 degree slope is a 100% grade, because 45 degrees is where the rise and the run are equal. (1/1=1, & times 100 is 100%)

I'd be OK with most tractors with Ag tires (but would prefer industrial tread) on an 8 degree slope (about a 15% grade) being slow & careful plus keep the bucket low & the batwing down.
At about 12 degrees, is where my personal pucker factor makes me feel more comfortable widening the stance or going up and down rather than a traverse. Side Slippage is a big worry for me. Are your rear wheels reversible for a wider stance?

If there is any doubt, or any change of side slippage, I always go up and down a slope rather than try to traverse it. Remember to always be in 4wd going down any slope.
rScotty

 

[davidcbaker]

Are your rear wheels reversible for a wider stance?

Good question. My salesman is out w/ family issues and I'm not sure.

(And thank you for the other information. I have a lot to learn.)

 

[captronr]

David, I suspect the reason the manuals and your dealer are hesitant to name a "maximum slope you can safely traverse" is to avoid liability if you roll your tractor. So many factors over and above 'slope', such as smoothness of ground, type of soil, dampness, configuration of your tractor, speed, etc, can all effect what a safe slope is.

A general statement by a rep or the manual stating "Be extremenly cautious of driving your unit across a slope to avoid the possibility of a roll over..........." might give them protection in a lawsuit.

Tractor manufacturers destroy more than a few units in testing to make sure their units are as safe as they can be. Once, I worked for a mfger who was testing the cab structure for operator protection. We made a fixture where a huge I beam was swung into the cab to simulate the stress the cab might expect in a rollover. Engineers had calculated the weight needed and the speed it was to hit at. The beam crushed the side of the cab, and distended it, but analysis determined a seat belted operator would have survived. It passed.

A better approach for you might be to ask a nearby farmer to look at your ground and see what he thinks. Or just be safe and mow up/down until you get more experience.

Ron

 

[SDT]

You think the lesser weight from the FEL is better gone than if I'm carrying it low, just above the ground? I figured that weight, on balance, would be better on the tractor.

Remove it, or at least the bucket.

It will be in the way, reduce visibility and is a potential hazard if low to the ground.

Do not remove the grill guard.

Yes, you may want to leave it in place the first time you mow unfamiliar property (while moving very slowly) if you expect obstacles that are difficult to see.

SDT

 

[SDT]

Good question. My salesman is out w/ family issues and I'm not sure.

(And thank you for the other information. I have a lot to learn.)

View attachment 550833View attachment 550834

Yes, your rear tires/rims can be widened considerably.

The good news is that your tractor has the optional cast wheel centers, which add considerable weight.

SDT

 

[CobyRupert]

Remove it, or at least the bucket. It will be in the way, reduce visibility and is a potential hazard if low to the ground. Do not remove the grill guard.
Yes, you may want to leave it in place the first time you mow unfamiliar property (while moving very slowly) if you expect obstacles that are difficult to see.
SDT

There's are pros/cons to having bucket on/off. Any additional weight below the tractors center of gravity (COG), like a lowered bucket, or bucket with ballast in it, will lower the tractor's COG and make it less likely to roll over. Conversely if it's raised above the COG, more likely.
As you noted, bucket on makes it easier to run into fences, buildings, etc.., but also handy to knock down tall grass and scout hidden "surprises" when mowing.

From OP's picture, it looks like outer rim (with tire) could be mounted on the outside of the rim's inner dish (plate) to increase the width a couple more inches (by the width of the mounting tab on the outer rim that we can't see in the picture).
Widen the stance and fill the tires.