Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower

   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower
  • Thread Starter
#11  
You need to find out what is loose.
I'm not being clear enough. The bearing is just fine and is not loose in the face plate. When you put the o-ring into the housing and slide the plate in after, there should be a bit of pressure needed to be able to get that 5" circlip to lock in. No pressure is needed, and in fact, you can slide the plate back and forth in the housing. So either the plate is too thin, the o-ring is too thin or there's damage to the inside of the case. The last scenario seems to be the case and you can see it in this pic.

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   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I have an RD72,,, and a PRD7200
PAqrlPY.jpg
You wouldn't have a picture under that driver's side cover, would you? I would love to see your spring tesioner.
 
   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower #13  
I know the gear in your picture has oil foam on it, but does it also have some debris too?

Check all the mechanicals for play, slop, etc. Debur the edges the oring has to go over. Make sure the oring protrudes a bit out of it's groove. Check closely the surface it is supposed to seal upon. At the edge of the photo, it looks like someone about destroyed the case trying to get the cover off???
 
   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower #15  
I have an old Woods 5' brush cutter and it would not keep oil in the box so about 10 years ago I pumped EP grease (EP- extreme pressure) into it and have been using it ever since.
I did not fill it up but put enough to keep it lubed.
I figured when it quit I would put a new box on it.
I replaced the deck and stump jumper at the same time.
New blades last year!
 

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   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I know the gear in your picture has oil foam on it, but does it also have some debris too?
Both gears are quite clean with no wear spots or nicks.
 
   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower #17  
I'm not being clear enough. The bearing is just fine and is not loose in the face plate. When you put the o-ring into the housing and slide the plate in after, there should be a bit of pressure needed to be able to get that 5" circlip to lock in. No pressure is needed, and in fact, you can slide the plate back and forth in the housing. So either the plate is too thin, the o-ring is too thin or there's damage to the inside of the case. The last scenario seems to be the case and you can see it in this pic.

op6rodmqowhffwb1sb3nchoocs9reuw3vs9xrs6u6xlhon62jhnd4lb2n2ndh9yc8g9vm2vj45nfaz43h-w2440-h1830-no-jpg.462993


OK. Now I understand, and agree with you're diagnosis. The gearbox housing looks rough. I think I'd make a shim to go between the snap ring and the plate.
 
   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower #18  
Could there be a shim to set the gear contact that's missing?
 
   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Could there be a shim to set the gear contact that's missing?

I thought of that, but the play in the front plate is there with or without the input shaft in place. There is a shim on the input shaft.
 
   / Rebuilding a Woods Finish Mower
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Alrighty then... I got in the seal and the oversized o-rings. I went to assemble the plate on the transmission and found it a bit "snug". I couldn't get the large circlip in. So I took a couple of c-clamps and put a good amount of pressure on until I could get it to pop in. I filled her with 90 wt and look ma: no leaks! I'm going to pressure wash the beast before I put the new belt on.

full


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