Educate me on plows please

   / Educate me on plows please #21  
My first use of tractor was clearing what Daddy called new ground. It had hardwoods on it say 3 to 5 inches in diameter and say 12 to 20 feet tall. Had heavy Case with custom made bumper on it. Used a two blade what is being called here a disk plow but here we called the one we had a "new ground" tiller. It would cut those hardwoods into like a knife slicing a twig. Awesome. Issue was where it would cut it, could be leaving no stump to say 5 foot tall stump. We do not have rocks but it would cut roots of at least 5 inches with no issue. Now were not driving fast, probably lowest gear. I know of know reason it would not leave as good looking furrow as a the moldboard plow would but the disc with leave a round bottom where the plow leaves a flat bottom. I would put my money on the disk to cut through sod with much better results at is will "cut" where the plow will tear through the grass unless it has a blade to cut it for the plow. Would be sure on replacement blades for the disk before I bought it. Also as the disk is round where the plow has a point, it you hit a stump or rock it should not be a shock like the plow will. Plow should have shear bolts on them or run very slow in field with roots, stumps or large rocks. Seat belt is not bad, if you do not have shear bolts and running with any speed you will eat the dash if not very fortunate with the plow. I have running plows with shear bolts or trips on tractor with no seat belts.

I think the plow or disk will till deeper than a tiller and they will turn over and cover grass and other stuff to help it rot, tiller will cut it into the cultivator zone. I would not waste time to disk if I were using a disk plow first. You will need to disk following either the plow or the disk plow.
 
   / Educate me on plows please #22  
Thank you Jeff for taking the time to archive FarmwithJunk's expertise so that it won't be lost. He was one of the more colorful TBN members in his day, and wasn't afraid to call a spade a spade. Yet he also knew his stuff, and was good about passing it on.

The 101 is a nice plow, and what I use also. The trip has probably saved me some serious breakage. Yet like my Dearborn harrow it's made for a full sized tractor, and you need to be careful. On my old L275 it only was about 4" off the ground when lifted, and I quickly learned not to run down my planted rows when turning between passes.

I also can attest to your statement about nutrients only being in the top 6-8 inches of the soil. In 2011 I had my field reclaimed with an excavator, pulling and piling all of the stumps. That soil is in the stump piles, waiting for me to find the time to reclaim the soil and landfill the rest; meanwhile I've been building up the residual soil. 2018 is the first time since I've been here that I've seen earthworms in my soil; it's finally starting to come alive again. I'm lucky though, in much of my field I can almost bury the moldboard and still be in the topsoil. I brought up a lot of rocks that way, while thinking I was burying the weed seeds. (I wasn't.)
 
   / Educate me on plows please #23  
Thank you Jeff for taking the time to archive FarmwithJunk's expertise so that it won't be lost. He was one of the more colorful TBN members in his day, and wasn't afraid to call a spade a spade. Yet he also knew his stuff, and was good about passing it on.

My favorite FWJ posts:

Contract Flailing

Answer by FARMWITHJUNK 7/13/2011

I do commercial Right-Of-Way mowing as well as several large acreage tracts. We've tried high end flails on several occasions. (Owned one, demo-ed 3 others..) They do an excellent job in many conditions, but require MUCH slower ground speeds in conditions that are very typically found in my line of work. They also require MUCH more HP in what I'd describe as "adverse conditions". As an example, a tractor we routinely use to pull a 15' bat wing (rotary) struggled with an 8' flail in high weeds. Before that draws a comment on "inexperienced operators", ect, I'll say this. We had a factory rep on hand while we used the flails. They were unable to rationalize the disadvantages of the flails. There was also NO comments offered on the way we used them, leaving my with the impression our results were typical.

When I demo-ed those flails, I was high on the idea of promoting them as a way of setting my business apart from the pack. It didn't take long to realize they simply made me uncompetitive in the market I had to operate in. This isn't Utopia...It's a tough economic environment. Operating at a disadvantage is a mistake, no matter what one would LIKE to do.

Initial cost (for higher quality units) is much higher than a heavy duty rotary cutter (per foot). Routine maintenance was off the charts compared to the relatively low cost involved with a rotary cutter.

Cost to mow an acre with a rotary cutter is fairly constant in varying conditions. Cost per acre with a flail varies wildly, and tends to lean towards VERY high per acre cost in the conditions commercial mowing generally presents. That EITHER makes bids unattractive, OR results in low profit margin. I don't know about you, but I'm in business to make money. A charming sales pitch doesn't feed the bulldog.

Much is made of the "safety factor"....Too much in fact. Flails aren't 100% safe, neither is a rotary cutter. With proper precautions, BOTH can be used successfully. There is a higher incidence of accidents with rotary mowers due in fact to the HUGE disparity in numbers of flails vs rotary cutters. This is one instance where numbers (as they're used in sales propaganda) DO NOT tell the true story.

You'll get the "sales pitch" (and associated propaganda) from "someone" on here who has a vested financial interest in selling flails, but speaking strictly as someone who's used BOTH enough to understand the assets AND liabilities of each, I'm holding steady with rotary cutters. There simply is not enough margin of profit in ROW mowing these days to afford a MUCH more expensive mower. (basing on long term use and maint, initial cost, and volume of billable work performed) You'll find flails more commonly in use by municipalities, where cost vs return on investment isn't a consideration. I have no interest in promoting OR criticizing EITHER, just a financial interest in operating MY BUSINESS in the most profitable (but still safe and efficient) manner.

3 years ago, we demo-ed 2 Alamo commercial grade flails. While mowing highway right-of-ways, BOTH required repairs that would have resulted in substantial expense, while mowing a stretch of road we routinely mow with Bush Hog bat wing rotary cutters. (Due to hitting exposed rock hidden under downed weeds) Quite simply put, rotary mowers will take FAR MORE punishment, do a more than satisfactory job, and do it at a much lower operating cost. Anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is simply ignoring/misrepresenting the facts to promote their own agenda.

Flails do an admirable job in select conditions. If you have the luxury of picking and choosing what you mow, fine..... The conditions that caused problems for the flails I saw represent approx. 75% of my business.

In the final analysis, the difference in quality of cut was minimal, if at all, when mowing in like conditions with a flail mower vs a "bush hog". A flail will obviously leave a better "lawn" than a bush hog in "lawn" conditions, but that isn't what is being compared in this thread anyway..... And with this type of mowing , 24 hours after the fact, it's virtually impossible to distinguish which type of mower was used in rough cut conditions.

Another valid point of comparison....Size of mower....I run a fleet of 15' bat wings. To get that width of cut, the typical set-up is to run a rear mounted 3-point flail, PLUS a side mounted hydraulic driven wing flail mower. The hp required, as well as the weight of the tractor serving as a power unit is substantially more demanding for the flails. (and cost goes up as you might expect) Rotary cutters can be run at lower engines speeds than the rated pto rpms with minimal drop off in quality of cut. Flails require (according to manufacturers) full, constant pto rated rpms. We found that recommendation to be "gospel". That's a critical difference when mowing in tight confines or when dealing with vehicle traffic only inches away. It's mandatory we be able to throttle back in certain situations.

BTDT, loaded the shelled flail mowers on a truck and sent 'em back to where they came from with no regrets. I compete against several other mowing contractors for my work....NONE....NOT ONE of them use flails. They simply DO NOT pencil out against a rotary cutter under the typical contract mowing conditions MOST of us are dealing with.......

Flail mowers have their niche. Making claims that they're THE answer to every question tends to make me discount ANY claims being made in their favor.




Later FARMWITHJUNK became a little less diplomatic. 2/01/2012
EDITED FOR BREVITY

In need of implement advice for 10 acres.

If you ever have the call for mowing anything except nearly scalping turf, avoid flails like the plague. They do a pitiful job if you try to cut "long"..... They require much more power per ft in dense grass. They're useless in wet grass. And flails equipped to do rough cutting aren't worth the time of day as a finish mower (and vice versa) Not such a glowing report from a mower that will cost several times as much as a more durable, more versitile rotary cutter.

For the record, I own a commercial mowing business, which mows (literally) thousands of acres per season. I've used some of the most expensive, highest quality flails in the business. I had plans of marketing that portion of my business as "an advantage".....Gave up on that idea real quick once I found out the added cost, lower productivity, higher maintenance cost, MUCH higher initial cost, and in most cases mediocre performance would have made my business uncompetitive.

If you have endless hours of spare time on your hands, aren't interested in quality of your work, have plenty of money laying around with nothing else to do with it, plan on mowing on an intense schedule, and just LOVE spending your time S.L.O.W.L.Y. mowing what could be done better in less time with a good rotary cutter, by all means....buy a flail mower.

BUT....If money IS an object....If time IS a valuable commodity.....and being able to buy one LESS EXPENSIVE mower that does the job seems like a more intelligent solution, buy a GOOD rotary mower.



(FARMWITHJUNK liked Bush Hog brand Rotary Cutters.)
 
   / Educate me on plows please #24  
Farmwithjunk post sure changed my mind , as I was already to give a flail mower a try . I have a new rotary cutter on order from Everything Attachments .


I was able to pick up an old 3 bottom ford trip plow for $300 here in potato country .
 
   / Educate me on plows please #25  
I was able to pick up an old 3 bottom ford trip plow for $300 here in potato country .

$300? Good buy!

I paid $1,200 in 2014 for my 12" Ford 101 two bottom trip with Landing Lever in 95% condition. High, but it was the plow I wanted.
 
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   / Educate me on plows please #26  
I would like to be out cultivating the garden today and doing a little mowing of the rest of about 30 acres of fields but it is to dang hot ( 90 ) , I guess you guys down south are used to that hot weather but not me.
 
   / Educate me on plows please #27  
I would like to be out cultivating the garden today and doing a little mowing of the rest of about 30 acres of fields but it is to dang hot ( 90 ) , I guess you guys down south are used to that hot weather but not me.

Would be easy to say, ohh a cool spring day but if humidity is high that is hot.
 
   / Educate me on plows please #28  
Here is a disc plow
View attachment 560675


And this is a moldboard plow

View attachment 560676

For what I do the disc plow in the top photo works better. Mine is a 2 disk 1951 dearborn. We have used it with tractors from 35hp up. Doesnt seem to take as much HP as a bottom plow. Anywhere with fresh ground that could have roots etc in it they work great, and to me easier than a bottom plow. We drag a piece of railroad rail 8 ft wide behind it to smooth it out.
 
   / Educate me on plows please #29  
I had never seen or heard of a disc plow until recently on the you tube channels . I guess they aren't very popular up in this part of the country . We use disc for hilling potatoes and corn etc. . They look like they would do a great job .
 
   / Educate me on plows please #30  
I had never seen or heard of a disc plow until recently on the you tube channels . I guess they aren't very popular up in this part of the country . We use disc for hilling potatoes and corn etc. . They look like they would do a great job .


Dont see many of them down here. never saw one before 7 yrs ago, or if I did i didnt pay it any attention.
After seeing how well it did on new ground with a lot of debris I had to get me one. Down here a 2 disc will run about 350-450. I have seen some 3's and they were about 550. between our little group after they saw how well they worked we probably have 5 or 6 now.
 
 

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