25 HP vs 35 HP

   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #81  
with another tractor pushing on the other end LOL - or with tipping it up and putting logs underneath to roll it on.

my neighbor used his 706 farmall at 75ish HP and his was 20foot vs 40 and it handled it but a 40 footer would have been a different story

id just make friends with a big tractor and invite him over when you need to move it and offer him some sort of bartering :drink:
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP
  • Thread Starter
#82  
I was able to tug around a 20 footer with open side doors with my Toyota Tundra after putting some wood skids under it. Never even broke traction. The 20 ft open side containers weigh almost as much as a 40 footer. I guess the tractor will just have to clear room for the pickup cause I certainly am not upgrading to a 75+ hp tractor to do what I can do with no tractor at all. Just dont like risking scratches on my pretty truck. Surprising that a 75 horse tractor can barely do what a half ton pickup can do without even a tiny bit of struggle. Maybe you were picking the entire box up? Not using skids or rollers?
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #83  
I was able to tug around a 20 footer with open side doors with my Toyota Tundra after putting some wood skids under it. Never even broke traction. The 20 ft open side containers weigh almost as much as a 40 footer. I guess the tractor will just have to clear room for the pickup cause I certainly am not upgrading to a 75+ hp tractor to do what I can do with no tractor at all. Just dont like risking scratches on my pretty truck. Surprising that a 75 horse tractor can barely do what a half ton pickup can do without even a tiny bit of struggle. Maybe you were picking the entire box up? Not using skids or rollers?

No I can pull them around ok. I could also pick up one end

Andy
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #84  
How about some videos of these container moving feats?
Sounds interesting to watch.
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #85  
I moved an old semi trailer without a semi. I picked up the front end with my skid steer and set it on my rollback and then picked up the back and we drove it about a hundred yards. The CTL couldn’t push it with one end on the ground and the back axel was buried when we started so pulling it wasn’t an option. That trailer was heavy. I’d guess at least 2 tons at each end.
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP
  • Thread Starter
#86  
Sounds like neither 25 or 35 hp tractor is ideal for moving shipping containers. Neither is a pickup, for that matter. That's okay. Not a deal killer. I can handle moving a shipping container around a few times with less than ideal equipment. There are lots of vids on YouTube showing people moving containers around.
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #87  
To be 100% honest we can only go on what WE PERSONALLY know and have experienced.
SO..is kioti good? I've owned one for 57 hours..been perfect.
Had an older Kubota for about 100 hours..again, perfect.

I've had 2 subarus - a '14 that has been very very good and an 07 that had all sorts of issues by 66k miles that most cars never have.

Are subarus good cars? Should you buy one? Is there any fact out there to say one way or another? Maybe 'would YOU buy another one?' - i'd certainly consider it.

But if YOU don't have any experience with using/owning/buying/ something (brand, tractor, wine, mattresses) it's typical to ask around. And the internet lets that question go to a very broad audience - is that good or bad?

Do you trust your mom? Brother? boss? BFF? Sure, so you ask them for advice on things. Would you stand on a street corner and ask complete strangers for advice? No. Yet that's essentially what the internet allows us to do.

tehy say there is a collective intelligence to crowds and the web...so maybe it does work?
OK, thanks for staying with the fact vs opinion subject. I'll drop it now; the point seems to have beeen made.
Using the definitions from the original post those statements in the quote above look to fit the definition of hear-say opinion rather than facts.

As in: " ...hear-say (my buddy, dad, I read, heard, saw in a tv show, guy on the next barstool said...)

rScotty
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #88  
I'll throw in, go with the 35hp. I've got the 25 hp cabelas/tym built and definitely while using pto I would want more hp if I were cutting down scrub. I've only a belly mower and it bogs down if I let grass get to hay size. I'd like a bit more umph if I could get it. My neighbor has had a kioti 35hp for 5 yrs or so, and it's been good tractor. But she does baby it. An alternative is to get a 25hp and find a 50 to 75 hp old running tractor and use it for grunt work......
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #89  
mowing grass, yard grass anyway, takes HP. Or it's nice to have.

My zero turn is 26hp..weight 550 lbs and cuts 42" like a beast. I wouldn't expect a 3000lb tractor with less HP overall to do better, would you?

My Kubota 17hp/15hp pto had a 59" woods deck finish mower and as long as yuo only too 2" max off the grass, preferably less, it was fine. Push it to cut more and it would get hot. My zero turn routinely cuts tall grass and even hay size grass once or twice a year. So did my snapper before that (42" cut 18 hp). I had a 19hp sears 48" cut that would do it, but would complain. I have a 14hp zero turn and forget high grass...just won't do it at all (38" cut).

25 to 35hp is what, a 30-35% jump in power? With no penalty in size/weight...yeah, sounds good.
I'll throw in, go with the 35hp. I've got the 25 hp cabelas/tym built and definitely while using pto I would want more hp if I were cutting down scrub. I've only a belly mower and it bogs down if I let grass get to hay size. I'd like a bit more umph if I could get it. My neighbor has had a kioti 35hp for 5 yrs or so, and it's been good tractor. But she does baby it. An alternative is to get a 25hp and find a 50 to 75 hp old running tractor and use it for grunt work......
 
   / 25 HP vs 35 HP #90  
Regarding RPM operating range, I've just always preferred running engines at lower RPM's. It's just psychological as it seems like running higher RPM's is harder on the engine (more friction with more movements within a given period of time), but I understand that is not necessarily the case. It's also just less stressful to hear the engine lugging around that screaming. but, I will operate at whatever the recommended range is, and get used to it. This was something I had a hard time with riding 2 stroke dirt bikes. They really like to be wrung out. I always felt like I was about to melt the engine. Probably both are true!

Geotech, did you decide on a tractor yet? It sounded like you were getting close.

I've been thinking on some of the things that you mentioned as concerns and comparing them with my own experience.

On dealers, I'd feel more comfortable with a dealer who had a good parts inventory and an active, well-equipped service department. How far away he was wouldn't matter if he was within an hour or so driving time. But that's from the perspective of being a guy who likes to fiddle with mechanical things as a hobby. One of the things I like about tractors is working on them, adding things, experimenting with implements....that sort of thing. If I wasn't a mechanical guy I might feel differently about dealerships; just don't know. I might add that I like to support old established small businesses over big corps.... but that's just a personal thing.
So all in all, any advice on dealerships seems like a personal thing.

On 25 vs 35 hp.... That's more mechanical knowledge than opinion. Other than the ability to lift more weight at either end, I feel that both machines will do the same job. It just takes less time with the larger machine and you can run lower RPM doing it.

On operating RPM..... This is a biggie for me because I've always liked to work with a machine at the lower end of the RPM range. It's just how I like to work, other people can differ all they want. The good thing is that with tractors it doesn't make much difference what RPM you start doing a job at because either you naturally advance the throttle as needed, or else the load-sensitive governor does it for you. Every tractor I've ever been on - even the old 195-s 30 HP JD I started with had a decent load sensitive governor and convenient throttle as well. So if you want to set a low base RPM and just advance the throttle as needed to match the load, that works fine. Just don't lug it; lugging it can overheat engine or tranny, but of course that's no different whether it is a car, tractor, or horse.

Just be aware that when a diesel runs at low RPM - especially at idle - it puts more soot in the engine oil. Soot in diesel oil is inevitable and too much is harmful. So extended idle at low RPM means more frequent oil & filter changes are an absolute necessity. And if you pick a tractor with some sort of soot extractor on the exhaust, then extended low RPM is going to make the soot extraction system work harder. So those are the tradeoffs for low RPM work & idle.

I accept the increased maintenance costs of low RPM because running that way also increases how much I enjoy tractoring. The bigger the engine, the better it runs slow.
Tractors don't wear very much. Basically the older the tractor gets, the more I trust it.
rScotty
 

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