When to use four wheel drive?

   / When to use four wheel drive? #151  
In regards to older 2WD tractors, back in the day many, if not most, tractors did NOT have FEL loaders on them, not having a loader gave them much better traction than a 2WD with loader. Those 2WD loaders really only filled a gap until 4WD with loader utility/compacts became the norm. It is rare to see a new tractor with 2WD and FEL. If I have a heavy load on my 3 pt non loader 2 WD tractor, I can go most anywhere a 4 WD can.

Yep. Well stated.

Additionally those older tractors were AG design. They carry a large percentage of their chassis weight on the rear wheels. This made them more capable with a loader in 2wd.
 
   / When to use four wheel drive? #152  
Growing up we NEVER had 4x4 tractors. They were all 4x2 with chains and individual brakes for the rear wheels. Before my legs were long enough to reach the peddles, I knew how to climb steep grades using those brakes and the front tires were rarely touching the ground. A 4x4 tractor was only NEEDED for the hills too steep to walk on.

But did you have Front-End Loaders on them?

I know that by and large we didn't, so except for the odd Farm-all 3 -wheeler, we never really had to worry too awful much about stability, balance points, hills etc....
 
   / When to use four wheel drive? #154  
except for the odd Farm-all 3 -wheeler, we never really had to worry too awful much about stability, balance points, hills etc....

You obviously didn't drive tractors where ruffdog and I did.
 
   / When to use four wheel drive? #155  
You obviously didn't drive tractors where ruffdog and I did.
Yeah, we had a tall 75hp IH with narrow front and loader that YES, you had to use your head with, climbing up and down wooded areas. One time my dad wasn't careful and he rolled it. We all thought it was time for him to get a LOW 4x4 so it was safer. I still wonder about him.....
 
   / When to use four wheel drive? #157  
Greetings Overszd,

I had posted: "As another example - my scut is certainly not awd - however I'm in 4wd (front wheel assist if you require the phrase) - but neither I or anyone else could tell on lawn or dirt or gravel - that my steering is altered in any way from 2wd. Only on dry concrete or dry blacktop can you "sense" a different sound in 4wd to 2wd - and in no way does it alter the turning ease and turning circle. Maybe larger compact tractors and older equipment is stiffer steering in 4wd compared to 2wd - but I've never ridden on any that are even though I know my neighbor's jd x728 lawn tractor is stiffer in 4wd."

And in response you posted:

I challenge you to a test. With your scut in 2wd, turn the steering one direction to full turn, drive forward for 2 or 3 complete circles so you can see and mark the inside diameter of the circle, stop and mark it. Now engage 4wd and make 2 or 3 more complete circles. Can you stay in the same tracks?

If your turning circle grows that's called "push". Your back tires are out running the fronts and pushing the front out of the circle.

If the circle remains the same diameter with no sign of push the front ratio is different enough to compensate for the different ground distance being covered. If you have this condition you will have severe "pull" when going straight.

I don't know of any SCUT, CUT or Utility class FWA tractor that doesn't display one of these "push" "pull" conditions. Thus, they are all binding and scuffing at some point.

Very high end AG class FWA tractors have the technology to vary the ratio dependent on degree of turn measured at the axis of the front axle knuckles. This allows them to make short turns at the end of the field without disengaging FWA.

Well Overszd, I guess you don't know many current day scuts then, because my Massey GC1715 is one of 4 models and I would propose that all 4 of those models will handle the same. And in testing - my particular unit performs exactly as I stated on grass. You "challenged" me to do a set of instructions you listed and then you prophesied I would have 1 of 2 types of occurrences display themselves. Well . . . . in 2wd, I tight turned to the left in the tightest circle possible and at moderate speed (not creep or crawl speed) - and as you specified it wasn't for one lap but 3. Then I switched in to 4wd as per your requirements and went in the same tight left hand tight turn circle . . . again 3 laps. Then as you required, I turned to going straight ahead.

The result? I was able to maintain the same turn circle size and position over the 2 sets of 3 laps. (I varied in 2wd on the 3 laps by 1.1 inches of each other in circle size - in 4wd I varied within 1.2 inches of each lap in circle size.) And I was able within those individual variations of each lap to be in the very same turning circle between 2wd and 4wd of LESS THAN 0.2 inches. Then I went straight and saw or felt or heard no difference in performance.

At no time during this "challenge" did I sense any tightening or stiffness or resistance to steering. At no time did it require more or less strength or did I hear or experience any of the conditions you stated.


You also posted as a followup to our discussion the following:

"I've had a FWA SCUT for 15 years. Two models. Nothing bold about my statement at all. Simple logistics."

But Overszd - I suggest you make bold statements like this one was "I don't know of any SCUT, CUT or Utility class FWA tractor that doesn't display one of these "push" "pull" conditions."

How is that not a very bold statement when you have such a tiny little (and aged) experience with only 2 scuts and especially older model equipment besides. The universe of well known scuts is 8 to a dozen brands minimum with numerous models in each and then who knows how many more not well known brands besides.

I also suggest Overszd that you predicted CERTAINTY of the future results to be stated in more than two following posts as well. When in fact the result was anything but certain.

As a poster, I quite often communicate my opinion but also clarify that opinion to my model or my amount of experience or other model experiences so as not to mislead readers and imply a level of knowledge I don't have or can prove. I post too many words often - but its specifically because I specify the conditions of my statements. I only have experience having driven/operated about 12 different models/brands of scuts and only 3 models of small compacts, and I never state or assume product size or equipment I have no experience with. All of us can make mistakes in our posts - but we also need to be responsible as words have importance - and brash statements can influence some readers to be influenced incorrectly by inaccurate posts.

I appreciate you wanted to challenge my statements - and I think that is fine as long as youdon't think you can "command it". But I dislike your boldness (or maybe its just arrogance) that you could be the only possible correct one (and with only 2 scuts as experience besides).

I'm sure you have a ton of valuable and desired experience in various areas relating to tractors that I don't have even though we are likely very similar in age (early 60's). Please aim that valued experience with a more accurate siteline and direction or clarify it so there is no confusion. I'd hate to see you look wrong again after prophesying certainty several times. Thank you.
 
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   / When to use four wheel drive? #158  
:rolleyes:?
Greetings Overszd,

I had posted: "As another example - my scut is certainly not awd - however I'm in 4wd (front wheel assist if you require the phrase) - but neither I or anyone else could tell on lawn or dirt or gravel - that my steering is altered in any way from 2wd. Only on dry concrete or dry blacktop can you "sense" a different sound in 4wd to 2wd - and in no way does it alter the turning ease and turning circle. Maybe larger compact tractors and older equipment is stiffer steering in 4wd compared to 2wd - but I've never ridden on any that are even though I know my neighbor's jd x728 lawn tractor is stiffer in 4wd."

And in response you posted:



Well Overszd, I guess you don't know many current day scuts then, because my Massey GC1715 is one of 4 models and I would propose that all 4 of those models will handle the same. And in testing - my particular unit performs exactly as I stated on grass. You "challenged" me to do a set of instructions you listed and then you prophesied I would have 1 of 2 types of occurrences display themselves. Well . . . . in 2wd, I tight turned to the left in the tightest circle possible and at moderate speed (not creep or crawl speed) - and as you specified it wasn't for one lap but 3. Then I switched in to 4wd as per your requirements and went in the same tight left hand tight turn circle . . . again 3 laps. Then as you required, I turned to going straight ahead.

The result? I was able to maintain the same turn circle size and position over the 2 sets of 3 laps. (I varied in 2wd on the 3 laps by 1.1 inches of each other in circle size - in 4wd I varied within 1.2 inches of each lap in circle size.) And I was able within those individual variations of each lap to be in the very same turning circle between 2wd and 4wd of LESS THAN 0.2 inches. Then I went straight and saw or felt or heard no difference in performance.

At no time during this "challenge" did I sense any tightening or stiffness or resistance to steering. At no time did it require more or less strength or did I hear or experience any of the conditions you stated.


You also posted as a followup to our discussion the following:

"I've had a FWA SCUT for 15 years. Two models. Nothing bold about my statement at all. Simple logistics."

But Overszd - I suggest you make very bold statements like this one was "I don't know of any SCUT, CUT or Utility class FWA tractor that doesn't display one of these "push" "pull" conditions."

How is that not a very bold statement when you have such a tiny experience with only 2 scuts and especially older model equipment besides. The universe of well known scuts is 8 to a dozen brands minimum with numerous models in each.

I also suggest Overszd that were also predicted CERTAINTY of the future results in more than one post as well. And the result was anything but certain.

As a poster, I quite often communicate my opinion but also clarify that opinion to my model or my amount of experience so as not to mislead readers and imply a level of knowledge I don't have or can prove. I post too many words often - but its specifically because I specify the conditions of my statements. I only have experience driving about 12 different models/brands of scuts and only 3 models of small compacts, and I never state or assume product size or equipment I have no experience with. All of us can make mistakes in our posts - but we also need to be responsible as words have importance - and some readers may get influenced incorrectly by inaccurate posts.

I appreciate you wanted to challenge my statements - but I dislike your boldness (or maybe its just arrogance) that you could be the only possible correct one (and with only 2 scuts as experience besides).

I'm sure you have a ton of valuable and desired experience in various areas relating to tractors that I don't have even though we are likely very similar in age (early 60's). Please aim that valued experience with a more accurate siteline and direction or clarify it so there is no confusion. Thank you.


I get the impression someones 4 wheel drive has never work and they do not know it! :)
 
   / When to use four wheel drive? #159  
:rolleyes:?


I get the impression someones 4 wheel drive has never work and they do not know it! :)

My front wheel assist is used and challenged every time I mow the lawn or go on my steep hills and sidehills. Steep mowing in good months is matched with steep plowing on a lengthy steep driveway and sidewalks. One part of my driveway when iced in winter - I can't walk up or down - yet I have no difficulty with my GC1715 and my turf tires (no chains).

I've always been quite surprised just how incredible the hydro braking is in 4wd and how dangerously lacking it is in 2wd.

But how about an example. Yesterday I was mowing on the front yard - and my very most steep area ends at a culvert area. Unfortunately rains have cut into a very small area just below the steepest part of my lawn. Until it gets repaired (for about the 5th time) - if I fail to stop prior to the cut out - I'll drop both front wheels into the eroded area and bottom on the front axle or worse. My neighbor across the street had gotten in his truck parked in his driveway - and was getting ready to leave while I was doing this (he has steep areas too). But he didn't leave. I drove down very slowly to just a few inches within the point of erosion while cutting - with my foot close to the brake as well. Now this is steep enough that you slide forward in the seat till the seat belt stops you as well as pushing back with hands on the steering wheel etc.. And then I backed up the hill to continue cutting next to it.

I'd asked him how come he hadn't left - and he said he didn't want to start the truck for fear it would distract me - or in case I needed his help if the unit slipped.

He was just amazed what that Massey could do - and he's been cutting on steep hills for decades. I said "well its not just the Massey you know - its the operator too." LOL
 
   / When to use four wheel drive? #160  
If you have hilly parts, I'd leave it in 4wd ALL THE TIME. You may forget sometimes and then go skidding down the hill with front wheels freewheeling and rear wheels just skidding. Then if you get very slightly sideways and hit a spot that stops you abruptly, you could very easily turn it over. In the meantime, you will have absolutely not control other than a little bit of steering. Been there; done that. KEEP IT IN 4WD!

Ralph

AMEN, Brother... What he say's...:thumbsup:
 

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