Ford 3000 won't crank to start

[rwridle]

Thanks again for the feedback! Here is an update after more troubleshooting this morning:

1) The starter solenoid is bad. Confirmed by removing and bench testing. Also compared it to the old starter, which works correctly.
2) The flywheel does not turn with the wheels when it is in gear.
3) The PTO does not turn either. See new video. Ford 3000 motor siezed? - YouTube

Anyone have experience with a seized motor and how to un-seize it?
Why does the PTO not turn with the wheels when the PTO is engaged?
Am I looking at a major shop repair or is this a do-it yourself project? The tractor only has about 350 hours on it.

 

[radios1]

if it is truly seized, then ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone in the cylinders with the injectors removed may do it. let that sit overnight to make sure it works, if it don't, then a combination of strong acids, which is used to eat away a bit of metal to loosen a broken tap in a machine shop, but would work as a last resort here, may be required, then a teardown to determine what needs to be replaced is needed after that extreme measure, I'll post the ingredients if you really need it, but you have to be VERY careful, as it's a mixture of VERY strong acids.. possibly your oil pump has failed?..

 

[geblackwell]

With the wheels jacked up, turning one wheel at a time will not make the engine turn over. The is an "open" rear end. Each wheel turns independent of each other. If that tractor has a way of "locking" the rear
end, then you could tell if the motor will turn over.

 

[sd455dan]

Thanks again for the feedback! Here is an update after more troubleshooting this morning:

1) The starter solenoid is bad. Confirmed by removing and bench testing. Also compared it to the old starter, which works correctly.
2) The flywheel does not turn with the wheels when it is in gear.
3) The PTO does not turn either. See new video. Ford 3000 motor siezed? - YouTube

Anyone have experience with a seized motor and how to un-seize it?
Why does the PTO not turn with the wheels when the PTO is engaged?
Am I looking at a major shop repair or is this a do-it yourself project? The tractor only has about 350 hours on it.

I would take it out of gear and make sure the PTO is disengaged while you have it on stands .
Remove the starter and get a pry bar and see if the flywheel can be moved a tooth at a time, Using a socket and ratchet or breaker bar on the crankshaft dampener bolt is also a good way to determine whether the engine itself is stuck .

Not a fan of trying to move the crankshaft by trying to turn the pto or wheels not sure that would work with man power.

 

[rwridle]

I tried the prybar on the flywheel teeth. It wouldn't budge.

 

[rwridle]

With the wheels jacked up, turning one wheel at a time will not make the engine turn over. The is an "open" rear end. Each wheel turns independent of each other. If that tractor has a way of "locking" the rear
end, then you could tell if the motor will turn over.

Before jacking it up and turning the wheels while looking at the flywheel, we towed it behind my truck. The motor would not turn over and we dug ruts and spun truck tires.

 

[sd455dan]

Oh , OK got it , have you had the tractor for a long time or is this a new acquisition?

 

[rwridle]

Oh , OK got it , have you had the tractor for a long time or is this a new acquisition?

It has been in the family since 2000. My dad bought it. There is a sticker under the hood where he changed the oil at 50 hours. In 2011 it showed 100 hours, but the hour meter no longer works. I estimate I put 150 hours on it in the last 8 years. It has been a good tractor, very reliable.

 

[Texasmark]

The Bendix sounds like it's being thrown out and hitting the flywheel with a good amount of force, but no cranking. Do you have an amp probe? Is the battery cable getting hot while cranking? What do YOU think caused it to stall?

On the + cable, what is that 90 degree bend? Is the cable cut? Where is the - lead attached on the starter end.

On the throwing the Bendix and then no whoopie, again smells of worn brushes (if not that kinked wire) that have adequate contact area to toss the Bendix (being it takes little amperage to do that) but when you start asking for 200 amperes or somethere around there the brushes/brush armature connection can't handle it. Course if the engine is frozen, all bets are off.

Did you put a volt meter on the starter like I mentioned while cranking and if so what was the voltage".

This thing is getting confusing: Battery good or bad....will it hold 11v across the terminals while supplying 200 amps....battery tester will determine that. Did you do that?

You were running ok and it quit. Now it won't start, nor even turn over but has plenty of oil. But the engine turns over ok with the load (gear train) disconnected via the clutch? Which is it? Crowbar won't roll the engine.....was the clutch pushed in when you did this test essentially disconnecting the driveline from the engine....aka are we chasing a battery problem, engine problem, or driveline problem?

Is there a problem in the drive train? What kind of PTO does it have.....your question about the PTO not turning if the rear wheels are turning?

Did you have a look at the oil in the tranny and hyd-differential? Milky? How about the levels, were they where they were supposed to be?

 

[sd455dan]

On the + cable, what is that 90 degree bend? Is the cable cut? Where is the - lead attached on the starter end.

On the throwing the Bendix and then no whoopie, again smells of worn brushes (if not that kinked wire) that have adequate contact area to toss the Bendix (being it takes little amperage to do that) but when you start asking for 200 amperes or somethere around there the brushes/brush armature connection can't handle it. I didn't watch the movie.

Sorry- guys but if the crankshaft can't be moved with a pry bar there are bigger concerns but the starting system will have to be dealt with eventually.

That sure sounds like a SUPER LOW hour 3000