Comparison Considering Kubota L 2501 4WD as replacement tractor, advice needed.

[Ryan03]

I currently have a Farmtrac DTC 270 with a Farmtrac 5040M loader. It has been a good tractor, but I have concerns about future parts availability for the Farmtrac, and I could really benefit from a more capable FEL with a higher lift capacity and more breakout force. I also would greatly benefit from larger tires than the Farmtrac has, as the 23x10-12 fronts on the 270 are way to small and short for FEL work in my muddy woods. I am considering a 2018 Kubota L2501 gear model to replace the Farmtrac. The Farmtrac is rated at 27hp, 24.8 PTO, it has a 85cu. 3 cyl diesel. The Kubota has a 3 cyl 100cu. diesel rated at 24.8 gross, and 20.5 pto HP. I sometimes run a 6ft rotary cutter on the Farmtrac, and have no issues power wise with what im doing, seldom needing to run over 1500 RPM.

75% FEL work
10% Rotary cutter
15% mix of landscape rake, box scraper, rear blade

Although the Farmtrac is rated at more HP 27/24.8HP, the Kubota engine 24.8/20.5HP is larger and shoiuld in theory make more torque at a given rpm than the Farmtrac, do you guys think there would be a noticable power difference between the two ? I generally run the Farmtrac at around 1500 RPM max, as I simply do not need any more power than that 90% of the time.

What is a fair price to pay for a 2018 L 2501 Gear, 4WD, R1 AG,s, with FEL and Quick attach w/66 inch bucket, NE Ohio Area ?

What would be a reasonable private party sale price, and also trade in price for the FarmTrac DTC 270, 700hrs, R4 tires {filled rear}, with FEL, and one added remote, Tires 80%, cosmetically 5 out of 10,mechanically/functionally 9 out of 10. I was thinking $6 to $7k private party, and around $5K trade. Am I in the ballpark here ?

I really would prefer to stick with the 2501 over the 3301 or 3901 if possible due to the lack of DPF and SCR. I plan to keep this tractor for 30 years, so the simpler the unit , the better.

 

[Tractorable]

One huge downside to the L2501 gear drive is that it doesn’t have an independent PTO. You step on the clutch and the PTO stops like on a 1950’s tractor. Consider the HST model to get a live PTO or move up to a L3301 or L3901.

 

[jeff9366]

With your forecast of 75% FEL work I recommend HST over clutch & gear. A clutch replacement is $1,200 at my local Kubota dealer, probably more in Ohio. An HST transmission will be much more reliable in 75% loader work. Your left leg and your wallet will thank you for opting for HST. Probable resale of a clutch & gear would be low, evidence of which we are informed of here when people discuss buying used tractors of any make.

On my land I would buy an L3901, nothing less, to power a light duty six foot Rotary Cutter ~~ 600 to 700 pounds.
To power a heavy duty six foot Rotary Cutter ~~ 1,000+ pounds, I would buy an L4701/HST or L4760/HST/PLUS, partly for sufficient PTO power, partly for tractor weight, so the 1,000+ pound cutter does not take control of the tractor.

15% mix of landscape rake, box scraper, rear blade

For this small amount of work, which you see parsed between three implements, I suggest a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment for $400, in lieu of implements. Ratchet Rake = Short learning curve, minimal storage space.

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Buy enough tractor.



A warning for those considering a Gear Drive Kubota L2501
Posted by FOXTAIL 10/08/2016

I want to share my experience with a kubota L2501 in case it's useful to anyone considering this tractor, or a L3301. They are wonderful tractors but the buyer should be aware of the following if you're not planning to get a hydrostatic....

First some background: I cut 10 acres of rough land 1-2 times per year. I did this successfully with a John Deere 1023E tractor and 4 foot Frontier RC2048 cutter. The 1023E's ground clearance around the transmission was fairly low, however, and the ride was a bit rough. So I wanted to upgrade this summer. I wanted a Deere 3032E with 5 foot cutter but it ended up being more than I wanted to pay, especially since I am unlikely to ever put that many hours on the tractor. The new Deere 3025E seemed better for my budget, but is not out as of this writing, and in any case my John Deere dealer said it has only 17.4 PTO horsepower and thought that is too little for a 5 foot cutter.

So I talked to Kubota dealers, and they were quite supportive of putting a 5 foot cutter behind a L2501, which has better PTO horsepower than the Deere (and up to 70.2 lb-ft of torque, incidentally, compared to 51.3 for the 3025E and 64.2 for the 3032E; although torque is not probably as important as PTO HP).

I ended up with a Gear Drive Kubota L2501 with 5 foot Land Pride RCR1260 cutter. The gear drive saved maybe $1000 and offered more PTO horsepower (20.5 PTO HP vs 19.0 for the L2501HST). HOWEVER, the gear drive was a big MISTAKE for my situation:

Problem 1: Nonlive PTO. When mowing if you ever need to change a gear or reverse, you must fully depress the clutch pedal, which also shuts off the transmission-driven PTO (and rear cutter). If you are in heavy material and want to slow down or back up, your only choice is to raise the mower and keep going (but not getting the grass cut) or to put the clutch in, bringing the tractor and PTO to a complete stop. (Note that the gear drive L3301 also has nonlive transmission-driven PTO. The L3901 gear drive might have the advantage of a two stage clutch pedal, which can let the PTO keep going as you change gears. However, buyers should check this carefully).

Problem 2: There are only 8 forward gears on the L2501 and they are spaced somewhat widely for mowing. It's hard to find the specs, which are only in the Kubota owner's manual and not online. Here are the details:
Low2 is 1.1 mph (much too slow for mowing except for very heavy conditions)
Low3 is 1.6 mph (very slow for mowing -- much slower than I generally did in my 1023e with a much smaller engine -- but this is the most realistic option for most conditions)
Low4 is 2.8 mph (substantially faster than L3, and generally too fast for mowing for all but the lightest material -- but still may not get a good cut because you're going so fast)
Also: on the L2501 (unlike L3301 as I understand it) there is no shuttle shift, which means that if you want to go from forward to reverse, you have to fully depress the clutch, come to a complete stop, which shuts down the PTO as well, and slowly shift and let your clutch out again. To save the clutch, the PTO and the implement, you really should do all this at fairly low RPM. However, since this action is also how you get the tractor to start moving again, you need some power -- maybe 2000 RPM to get the whole thing to go. Your left leg will really get some strength training!

Anyway, a gear drive L2501, with its transmission-driven PTO and somewhat widely spaced gears, is a little bit like a 1950s type tractor, and is not for everyone! I am sure there is someone out there who loves it, and will promptly tell me I'm just inexperienced. If someone has had a good experience with this tractor, please share.

After nearly 5 hours of frustration, my dealer let me trade up to a L2501HST, which essentially solves the problem. I would not hesitate to recommend the L2501HST to anyone wanting to run 5 foot implements.

 

[jeff9366]

I am considering a 2018 Kubota L2501 gear model to replace the Farmtrac.

What is a fair price to pay for a 2018 L 2501 Gear, 4WD, R1 AG,s, with FEL and Quick attach w/66 inch bucket, NE Ohio Area ?

The Kubota web site will provide L2501 and L3901 MSRP(s) as guidance:

https://apps.kubotausa.com/configurator/BuildMyKubota.aspx?pgId=1&bmId=1060&sId=125

 

[Agvg]

One huge downside to the L2501 gear drive is that it doesn’t have an independent PTO. You step on the clutch and the PTO stops like a 1950’s tractor. Consider the HST model to get a live PTO or move up to a L3301 or L3901.

This setup was useless 1960, and it's fantastic that a maker like Kubota still thinks it's a usable solution for PTO.

 

[Turbys_1700]

1. Get the hydro...
2. I know several folks that have purchased the 25, 33, and 39 HP models. No issues with any of them... If you think you may need more HP don't let the emissions scare you...

 

[jeff9366]

I sometimes run a 6ft rotary cutter on the Farmtrac, and have no issues power wise with what im doing, seldom needing to run over 1500 RPM.

I must believe you run a six foot FINISH MOWER with your Farmtrac, rather than a heavier, power demanding Rotary Cutter.

 

[majorwager]

If you live in OHIO, you have access to RK Tractors. Even if you do NOT select them, their website offers net pricing on all tractors and implements w/ no nonsense, no haggling.. Kubota would not want you to watch videos below.

RK Tractors


OUTDOORS WITH THE MORGANS is a you tube channel. Mike is testing three RK Tractors for the manufacturer, and this IS an HONEST ASSESSMENT. Here are just a few video samples of the RK's in action.

#147 Comparing RK 37 to Kubota L 391 - YouTube #16 Lift Capacity, Testing GRANITE GRAPPLE on RK 37 Compact Tractor Part 2 - YouTube #167 SUBCOMPACT TRACTORS, Toy or Serious Tool? - YouTube

 

[Jstpssng]

I would not let the emissions get in the way. Since you plan to keep it for 30 years, make sure that you get what you want.
As others have said; live PTO is almost a necessity if you ever plan to do rototilling, bush hogging, snowblowing, et.al. Unfortunately the smallest geared L series Kubota offers it in is the 3901.
I'm not a fan of the HST; and have found plowing snow in particular to be a real PITA after using my shuttle shift for 15 years. The only reason I bought it was for the live PTO. A year ago I was looking for what was to be my last tractor; now I can't wait until I pay this one off so that I can get something I like; i.e., a geared tractor with live PTO.

 

[Ryan03]

I must believe you run a six foot FINISH MOWER with your Farmtrac, rather than a heavier, power demanding Rotary Cutter.

I measured the rotary cutter this evening, it is a 60 in, not a 72 like I had thought.