David Brown 995 questions

[Richard]

Preface: I live on my wife's family farm. With the passing of her father, there are now 12 owners of the farm specifically (my home is deeded on its own)

So there are others who take care of the place, along with me. We're looking for a batwing mower and a tractor to pull it.


I come home the other day and low & behold, there is a tractor sitting there. Seems my brother in law went to a local auction and bought a David Brown 995 open station.

Today was the first day I got it started (he had it running the other day but only to load and unload it)

Today, I was going to add my finish mower behind it so I can cut the fields.

The 3-point arms on the back are "stuck" in the UP position. Moving the lever did nothing. There is a knob under the lever and that didn't do anything. I also stood on them.....nothing.

Brother in law says they were down when he bought it, raised them to move/load it....and noticed they didn't go down when he unloaded it so they got in the way of his chains (or something). Bottom line, he didn't pay too much attention to that reality, figuring there was a knob or lever he missed. This is exactly what I was thinking earlier today.

So, when stuck up....how do you let them down?


Question 2: The unit has what I think is a breather tube. It's on the right side of the engine (passenger side) and appears to go up to the head. I had some water (steam) hissing out of it in the time it took me to drive it out to get the mower (which I couldn't add) and drive back. He said he glanced at the water the other day so we are presuming it's got water in the radiator but I don't know for sure. Still....that tube didn't strike me as a radiator over flow tube but more likely, a breather for the valves which would imply some negative things if water is steaming out.

Blueish smoke out the stack so I get that it's burning some oil. It's not pouring the smoke out but you can see it.

Question 3: There's the PTO clutch on the left. I get it. But, other than that, is there another way to disengage the PTO? I'm not too thrilled with the clutch being engaged all the time (which I think it says NOT to do), therefore, I'm even MORE un-thrilled (I just now made that word up!) that the PTO might be on all the time as we'll likely have a mower attached on the back and I don't always want those blades moving.

Question 4: Starting procedure?? Turn key 1/2 on, flip switch to glow plugs. Does it go out on its own? Do I just wait 20 seconds? the crank her till she starts?


and I thought our International 444 was a bit funky....

 

[Agvg]

You have the PTO lever on your left under the seat, you have 540 and 1000rpm and neutral.

You also have a lock on the three point on the left where the liftarm are connected.

 

[Agvg]

If it's in ok condition you should just be able to start it without any preheat, it has a flamestart in the intake, if it works you will hear it ignites after 20 to 30 seconds

 

[Richard]

You have the PTO lever on your left under the seat, you have 540 and 1000rpm and neutral.

You also have a lock on the three point on the left where the liftarm are connected.

Found the lever under the seat. I didn't look (nor think about looking) for a neutral. It seems to me though that it would be able to "fall" into gear then? I DID move it and without clutching anything, it jumped from 540 to 1,000. You could see the PTO jump up (or down) in speed. I didn't try a middle. Thank you!!!

Where the lift arms are connected huh??

I'll have to look for that tomorrow. I didn't notice anything however, will admit, I didn't spend much time looking.

 

[Richard]

If it's in ok condition you should just be able to start it without any preheat, it has a flamestart in the intake, if it works you will hear it ignites after 20 to 30 seconds

I saw a youtube where someone started it in something like 22 degree weather. He turned a valve on the bottom of the fuel pump, started machine then, if I recall, he turned that valve off.

Is that related to this flamestart or is it somehow, automatic? (or is that red switch part of the process?)

I need to try to find a manual on this thing.

 

[Agvg]

Do you have a hand clutch for PTO? You might have 996 then. The hydraulic pump will be disabled if you use that for stopping the PTO.

 

[Agvg]

Found the lever under the seat. I didn't look (nor think about looking) for a neutral. It seems to me though that it would be able to "fall" into gear then? I DID move it and without clutching anything, it jumped from 540 to 1,000. You could see the PTO jump up (or down) in speed. I didn't try a middle. Thank you!!!

Where the lift arms are connected huh??

I'll have to look for that tomorrow. I didn't notice anything however, will admit, I didn't spend much time looking.

Jump in speed? Is it very loose?

 

[Weedaway]

PTO clutch should be a hand lever on your left, unlike the earlier two stage foot clutch.

The 3 point hitch may be help up by the lift latch. It's a crescent shaped handle on the left rear of the axle. Says 'Push to engage'. It needs to be vertical, either up or down. You may need to lift the weight off the arms before you can turn it. If you force it the plastic handle will break.

You can get an operator's manual for it here:David Brown info II Please read it before you break something or hurt yourself. The exact title is: "David Brown 990 995 Tractor Operators Manual", about halfway down the page.

There is a dedicated DB forum here: DBTC Forum (Amended �9 May 2�18) - David Brown Tractor Club Forum

 

[Richard]

Do you have a hand clutch for PTO? You might have 996 then. The hydraulic pump will be disabled if you use that for stopping the PTO.

It does have the hand clutch on the left and yes, that does stop the PTO. I just don't like the idea of that being engaged 50% of the time (or whatever time that the mower is attached but not in use) I'd rather totally disengage the PTO and release the clutch.

 

[Richard]

Jump in speed? Is it very loose?

Now we have to define loose?

With the engine running, I was able to lift/lower that lever and move the PTO from the 540 to 1000 range without any clutching. Yes, there was a slight gear grind but the first time I did it, I didn't know what the lever was for. Now I do.

Still.... I thought it was perhaps strange that you could "live swap" between the two speeds without having to clutch.

Then again, I also figured out that the foot clutch works.....but.... it has to be ALL the way to the floor to work 100% and when you start lifting your foot, the clutch starts to engage immediately. Suggesting to me it either needs adjusted or is near worn. (I much prefer the clutch to do its thing on the early part of the stroke, not the last part)

 

[Richard]

PTO clutch should be a hand lever on your left, unlike the earlier two stage foot clutch.

The 3 point hitch may be help up by the lift latch. It's a crescent shaped handle on the left rear of the axle. Says 'Push to engage'. It needs to be vertical, either up or down. You may need to lift the weight off the arms before you can turn it. If you force it the plastic handle will break.

You can get an operator's manual for it here:David Brown info II Please read it before you break something or hurt yourself. The exact title is: "David Brown 990 995 Tractor Operators Manual", about halfway down the page.

There is a dedicated DB forum here: DBTC Forum (Amended �9 May 2�18) - David Brown Tractor Club Forum

I'll hunt down the lift latch and see if its there and what it's doing.

I think I've figured out this is "selectomatic" or something. As you are sitting in seat, there is (behind you on the right) a 'box' for lack of better word, and on this box is a selector switch. I don't know yet what that's for but I THINK it's to let that box (some kind of diverter box??) change what it does, depending on the location of the switch.

Also, the "T-screw" on the underside of the fuel pump is evidently used to ****** the pump a bit to make it easier to start. I'm going to look into that this morning. I tried to move it yesterday but it was frozen in place.

 

[Agvg]

You are suppose to clutch when engage the PTO.
But you had a hand clutch for the PTO? Does it work?

 

[Richard]

Update:

First, I found the manuals on that site....THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! It was invaluable.

Second, turns out you have to pull the 3-point height lever BACK to "Adjust" (or whatever it's called) before you can turn the selectomatic switch. Now that I know that, it's easy-peasy and the 3-point isn't stuck in the up position.

Third: Found the neutral for the PTO lever. Yesterday, at idle, it DID jump from high to low. Today, I tried it again (but, I was moving and RPM's were probably a bit higher though, still low) Anyway, today, it would NOT move freely between them. I had to engage the hand clutch to change speeds.

Fourth: I don't know if the battery is 100% or not so right now, I'm not indicting anything, just reporting the process. I went to start it (cold) this morning. I turned the valve on the bottom of the fuel pump. Personally, I didn't notice much difference in how quick the engine started. I ALSO had it hooked to my charger (feeding 20 amps) because the battery started slowing down REAL quick....so I'm suspecting we have an aged battery. It's on my charger right now to see if that helps.


Last (I think!): Glow plugs. I don't "know" that they exist on this.... but in the instructions, I think I read something about taking the ignition switch turning it to the first "click" and then (if I recall correctly) do a PARTIAL turn for 20 seconds to heat the glow plugs before turning fully to engage starter.

Is that the correct process?


Found out we need a top link, one (anti) sway bar and the muffler sucks. Has a big hole on side so half the exhaust comes out right at face level....and of course, blows right back to you. I found out that the whole stack will simply pull off. There doesn't seem to be a clamp holding it on. I'm going to yank the entire (rusted) stack and put a straight pipe on it with a flapper......unless somehow, removing the muffler is going to be considered some negative. I'm not terribly concerned about the noise of the machine because I always wear hearing protection AND, the tractor we've used for years......has no muffler!!


ok....so THIS is the last question.... on the passenger side of the engine there is a flexible tube coming down. I made earlier mention of it. I"m guessing it's a breather vent. Looking at what was coming out of it today, I'm not sure now if it was steam or smoke. I'm still leaning on the side of it being steam. I'm going to work the tractor later after it charges a bit and we maybe get a stabilizer bar.... but if it is in fact steam coming out of that tube, what problems are we in for??

 

[Richard]

Do you have a hand clutch for PTO? You might have 996 then. The hydraulic pump will be disabled if you use that for stopping the PTO.

Sheet metal says 995 but on one side of the machine, someone has taken some paint and above the 995, written 996.

So if I believe the sheet metal, it's a 995 BUT....yes, there is in fact, a hand clutch on the left so if that answers anything, so be it.

 

[Richard]

The 3 point hitch may be help up by the lift latch. It's a crescent shaped handle on the left rear of the axle. Says 'Push to engage'. It needs to be vertical, either up or down. You may need to lift the weight off the arms before you can turn it. If you force it the plastic handle will break.

I guess someone has already broken the handle. Looking through the posted manual (thanks again!!!!!), I think I saw where to go on the tractor.

When I was standing behind the tractor, looking at the left wheel where the lift arm attaches, there is a "knob" that extends out of the assembly. This knob is round... I looked for a flat spot to indicate where something might be able to press/push to rotate the knob...but as best I can see, it's simply round. I grabbed it with a pair of pliers (while the 3-point was stuck in up position) and it didn't seem to turn at all.....nor did I sense any slop in it. The pliers just rotated around it.

Once I figured out the selectomatic switch and got the 3-point working, I forgot about this lever (and don't know if that's ok or if I should be sure it's rotated one way or another)

Right now it's "out of sight, out of mind"

 

[Weedaway]

First, I found the manuals on that site....THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! It was invaluable.

You're welcome. Sorry if my earlier post sounded lecturey but it seemed like you were rushing things.

ok....so THIS is the last question.... on the passenger side of the engine there is a flexible tube coming down. I made earlier mention of it. I"m guessing it's a breather vent. Looking at what was coming out of it today, I'm not sure now if it was steam or smoke. I'm still leaning on the side of it being steam. I'm going to work the tractor later after it charges a bit and we maybe get a stabilizer bar.... but if it is in fact steam coming out of that tube, what problems are we in for??

Does it look like #20 in this diagram? Official Case IH Online Parts Store
If so it's an engine breather and hopefully it's just a bit of oil vapour. If it's steam, you're in trouble. I'll leave the diagnostic advice to others. I've never noticed anything coming out of mine, but it's tucked into the chassis. I guess you could put a jar under it and see what condenses.

Once I figured out the selectomatic switch and got the 3-point working, I forgot about this lever (and don't know if that's ok or if I should be sure it's rotated one way or another)

Right now it's "out of sight, out of mind"

If the rear lift is working, it's in the right position.

 

[Agvg]

Sheet metal says 995 but on one side of the machine, someone has taken some paint and above the 995, written 996.

So if I believe the sheet metal, it's a 995 BUT....yes, there is in fact, a hand clutch on the left so if that answers anything, so be it.

Then you have a 996.

 

[Richard]

996 huh?

So someone put new metal on it.

The tube does look like item 20. Looking at the machine, it does look like a breather.

The muffler is shot and there's no flapper on the exhaust pipe. I'm beginning to suspect there's water in the oil (but the dipstick looks "fine" on initial viewing)

Brother in law is bringing some oil & antifreeze over so we can flush those two items.

I do have another question....but first, the symptom.

Put 6 foot, (2 meter) finish mower behind tractor. There is a section that's a hill. When I go over that section with our old IH 444 (something like 30/40 HP...not sure which) it will lug down & blow black smoke while going up this hill.

Today, when I took Mr. Brown up the hill, (what's it have, 60/70 HP?) it bogged down in same area...to the point that I clutched at the top so the engine could catch up. Frankly, I was a bit surprised that it lugged like it did. The IH has a LOT of blow by so I know it's a weak machine. This one is probably at least 50% stronger, if not more.

So, later on, I was on a flat space... saw a thick log in grass and didn't want to cut over it so clutched machine, kicked out to neutral (leaving blades turning) and dialed the throttle down to idle. The machine RPM's just kept dwindling and it dies.

It would NOT start again... curious.... looked in fuel tank. Something is in there (fuel). Couldn't tell how much so put a stick down. The very tip of stick got wet so the tank is essentially empty.

Trudge back to get 5 gallons, bring CAR back so I can attach jumper cables.

Tried to start machine over & over & over..... NOTHING. Just cranking over. Not even puffs of smoke out the stack.

Attached car to help boost battery and it fired right up.


Brother in law said the fuel pump (transfer pump) is dead.

We removed supply line at the MAIN fuel pump (injector pump) and manually pumped the transfer pump....it did nothing.

Went to transfer pump itself, detached the output hose & put finger over it while pumping...... again, it did nothing.

Cranked engine (with rubber hose detached) and it sprayed fuel 6-10 inches out the end so we put it back together.

He STILL thinks the transfer pump is bad....thinking that it should pump fuel with less energy than the engine cranking over.....and if it's weak, it might explain why the engine won't (yet) start on its own.... I've always had to jump it.

I figured if the transfer pump was shot, then nothing would come out....but when engine was cranking, it FLOWED out but it didn't come out like it was under a lot of pressure. (my understanding is its job is only to supply the injector pump and the injector pump is what jacks the pressure up)


Right now, we're 50/50 on keeping tractor verses getting rid. Nobody wants to spend too much money to perhaps find out that the head is cracked (or worse)..... so we're fixing some easy things to see if anything improves with some little things done.

Brother in law said the tractor was running maybe 30/60 minutes at the auction.

I let him know that in the 2 days I've been messing with it, it does seem to idle fine. It's when you speed it up a bit that it must warm up and the "smoke/steam" (which ever it is) starts to come out the vent. It's well behaved at idle speed.

 

[Richard]

Been doing some reading.... it seems they built the 996 and simply kept using the decals for the 995.

Strange.

 

[Weedaway]

If you’ve run it out of fuel you’ll need to bleed the air out of system. The procedure is in the manual.