PT woes..... 1850 wiring
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woodlandfarms
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2006
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- 6,137
- Location
- Los Angeles / SW Washington
- Tractor
- PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
Hmmmm.... Very intersted in the new breaker results. Seems like a very sketchy solution to me.
OP
AVIVIII
Silver Member
I'm still looking for a good running 12v source to trigger the relay in place of the thermal disk. Right now, I've resorted to Moss' alligator clip method and a direct wire. I can't believe how great PT is at hydraulics and how bad they are at electrical....
I also made a handy little tool out of a piece of 3/16 copper bent at the end, a compression fitting, and a blow gun to clean out the cooling fins without taking the shroud off. Temps are still running a little high for my liking, so a full oil and filter change are next. Its a little grimy under the shroud, so I was thinking about washing it. Engine cleaner and a hose? Pressure washer? Please tell me there is a drain so that that tub doesn't fill up with water....
I also made a handy little tool out of a piece of 3/16 copper bent at the end, a compression fitting, and a blow gun to clean out the cooling fins without taking the shroud off. Temps are still running a little high for my liking, so a full oil and filter change are next. Its a little grimy under the shroud, so I was thinking about washing it. Engine cleaner and a hose? Pressure washer? Please tell me there is a drain so that that tub doesn't fill up with water....
ponytug
Super Member
There are lots of drains in the tub.
I use a pressure washer, once a year or so. I do take the precaution of having the engine cold, and taking the air shroud off so that I can spray up as well as down, and it also improves the draining. In between, I use the compressed air trick on an as needed basis (weekly/bimonthly). For me, with my dust/chaff, that's all I need. Others here do use detergents. There are some nice products for cleaning AC evaporators that you spray on, and let drain through. It's simple, and solves the problem if you have sticky gunk in there.
I agree with you 100% on Tazewell. I would ditch the thermal disk. This isn't what they were designed and intended for. Just google radiator fan sensor. You will find a bunch out there. I don't think that the temperature really matters, as all of them are set below the factory setting. Those sensors are design to control a relay, usually included, and just use that to open the PT relay.
I know that you have the BIG machine, but 50Amps into a fan is way too much. Most of the big fans draw 20-30A. I don't recall every seeing one that drew 50A. That would be 85%+/- of your alternator output. If the Tazewell fan does draw that much, I would replace it with a SPAL high efficiency fan for the lower draw.
All the best,
Peter
I use a pressure washer, once a year or so. I do take the precaution of having the engine cold, and taking the air shroud off so that I can spray up as well as down, and it also improves the draining. In between, I use the compressed air trick on an as needed basis (weekly/bimonthly). For me, with my dust/chaff, that's all I need. Others here do use detergents. There are some nice products for cleaning AC evaporators that you spray on, and let drain through. It's simple, and solves the problem if you have sticky gunk in there.
I agree with you 100% on Tazewell. I would ditch the thermal disk. This isn't what they were designed and intended for. Just google radiator fan sensor. You will find a bunch out there. I don't think that the temperature really matters, as all of them are set below the factory setting. Those sensors are design to control a relay, usually included, and just use that to open the PT relay.
I know that you have the BIG machine, but 50Amps into a fan is way too much. Most of the big fans draw 20-30A. I don't recall every seeing one that drew 50A. That would be 85%+/- of your alternator output. If the Tazewell fan does draw that much, I would replace it with a SPAL high efficiency fan for the lower draw.
All the best,
Peter
woodlandfarms
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2006
- Messages
- 6,137
- Location
- Los Angeles / SW Washington
- Tractor
- PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
One caution on the pressure washer is that it will bend fins of the hydraulic oil cooler. Just be a bit gentle.
Agreed with Peter on all the rest. I pressure wash with a bit more frequence, twice to 3 times a year, but I have either mud or dust with all the clay. I also built a 90 degree attachment for my pressure washer to get in the engine oil cooler fins.
Oh, let the engine dry before you move it (assuming it is dusty out). It was an idiot move on my part, couldn't figure out why it was runnign so hot after a good washing on a hot and dry day. All the dust turned to mud in the fins.
Agreed with Peter on all the rest. I pressure wash with a bit more frequence, twice to 3 times a year, but I have either mud or dust with all the clay. I also built a 90 degree attachment for my pressure washer to get in the engine oil cooler fins.
Oh, let the engine dry before you move it (assuming it is dusty out). It was an idiot move on my part, couldn't figure out why it was runnign so hot after a good washing on a hot and dry day. All the dust turned to mud in the fins.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
I replaced the thermal disk on mine - pretty easy to do and useful in the winter.
Ken
Ken
OP
AVIVIII
Silver Member
When mine failed it fried a bunch of wiring too. I'm not looking forward to removing and replacing that all again if/when I loose another disk. I like the idea of the automotive style switch, but I'm not particularly interested in drilling and tapping my oil cooler to install it, Unless there is a removable plug somewhere that i'm not seeing.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 58,222
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Why not just hard wire the fan to a relay, and control the relay with a switch on the dashboard? It does no harm to have the fan on all the time. The fan probably never cycles off once it turns on anyway, does it? On my PT425, once it comes on, it's on for the duration. That's why I just connect it to with the alligator clip, start the machine, and off I go. Someday I'll run a dedicated wire and switch, but I see no need for the thermostatic control, except to turn it on after 5-10 minutes of operation of you forget.
OP
AVIVIII
Silver Member
I'm all about automation. I'll find a good circuit to trigger it, its just a matter of figuring out that wiring nonsense that I need a mirror to see. Plus, in my opinion, the fewer things crossing the pivot point, the better.
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