Blew up Kubota motor

[TractorGuy]

Sorry for your loss!

Might consider adding low oil pressure protection. Should be as simple as routing the fuel cut off solenoid power through an oil pressure switch. That might increase your start up time as it would have to see oil pressure to close the connection.

 

[riptides]

You mentioned no KTAC insurance. Why not try and call anyway? Worth a shot.

 

[LD1]

Still waiting on places to open so I can make some calls.

Liking the looks of countrysalesand service.....not too far from me.

Kubota V243TME-AG-E3 Rebuilt Engine: Kubota L524, L574, MX51 Tractor

But the price is steep.

Bout a grand less for a tier 2 but don't know if other things have changed to make that impossible????

Kubota V243TME-AG-E2 Rebuilt Engine: Kubota L574 & M59 Tractor

Both listed to fit the 5740....but only tier 3 listed for mx??

Still want to call some shops. See what kind of turn around for rebuilding mine.

$4700 seems a bit steep for a reman....which is just a rebuilt one only without the wait.

I guess it's possible that the only damage is #1 rod and corresponding crank journal. And I could rebuild this one for cheap. But so many places for metal in the oil to have done damage, turbo, cam, balancers, etc.

And since the same v2403 turbo engine is used in 51-60 hp range.....new or reman I might get 60hp out of the deal

Called my dealer.

The place I linked above, Country sales and service.....He said thats where they go when they need an engine. They are a factory authorized shop, and supply dealers in this area with re-conditioned engines. and said they are excellent to work with and if there are any issues they stand behind it.

Dealer also told me something interesting....that if I did get a new kubota engine and not a re-conditioned one.....the only way the dealer could sell it to me is to take my old engine in and he has to drill several 1" holes in the block so it cannot be rebuilt.

Which sucks because I was thinking that the $6500 price of a new engine wouldnt be too bad vs the $4800 reconditioned one since I could still part out the old block or sell as a core for $1200 or so to one of these shops.

He said kubota is NOT allowed to sell a new engine that doesnt meet current emissions without destroying the old engine. IE: they can sell replacement "dirty" engines.....as long as it doesnt add to the total number of "dirty" engines in circulation. 1 for 1 swap is okay. Selling me a new one and letting me or someone else rebuild a "dirty" engine is a no-no

 

[LD1]

You mentioned no KTAC insurance. Why not try and call anyway? Worth a shot.

I asked the dealer about this too. He said it wouldnt have covered it. KTAC doesnt cover internals unless caused by outside source.....like a stick poking a hole through the radiator and doing engine damage. He said alleging a stick pulled out the dipstick tube (with no other damage) would be a long shot at best. Kubota could just as easily say I forgot to add oil or that I sabotaged it to get a new engine

 

[searcyfarms]

well crud.................such a bummer.................I cant imagine something like this happening to me but it has more than once, sticks have damaged things, broken things, glass mainly, controls, hoses, radiators, oil lines, I had one possibly cause a burn down last fall of my entire skid steer so I feel your pain!!!!! idiot lights are ok if they are working and yes gauges are nice - I don't know if all of my equipment has a failover low pressure shutdown but sure makes me pucker when I think about this happening to me.

Stick got a tires recently, deer antler got front and back tires of my buddies 2-110 white. What a fiasco out in the middle of the tall CRP and soft ground.

Anyway this stuff happens and its expensive unfortunately, sounds like you are doing the right thing regardless which is good. Do you see evidence of oil blowing out all over the tractor, to blow 5 qts out there should be some evidence?

Maybe something else happened to lose the oil out the exhaust which might be covered under WTY? I know from experience a loose or missing dip stick - oil is going to be all over the place including me. That has happened to me before. Not all the way out but enough it was spraying oil out everywhere.

 

[TractorGuy]

Doesn't the reman engine company require a core or core charge?

 

[4570Man]

Doesn't the reman engine company require a core or core charge?

Usually and I’d bet the core price is high.

 

[LD1]

well crud.................such a bummer.................I cant imagine something like this happening to me but it has more than once, sticks have damaged things, broken things, glass mainly, controls, hoses, radiators, oil lines, I had one possibly cause a burn down last fall of my entire skid steer so I feel your pain!!!!! idiot lights are ok if they are working and yes gauges are nice - I don't know if all of my equipment has a failover low pressure shutdown but sure makes me pucker when I think about this happening to me.

Stick got a tires recently, deer antler got front and back tires of my buddies 2-110 white. What a fiasco out in the middle of the tall CRP and soft ground.

Anyway this stuff happens and its expensive unfortunately, sounds like you are doing the right thing regardless which is good. Do you see evidence of oil blowing out all over the tractor, to blow 5 qts out there should be some evidence?

Maybe something else happened to lose the oil out the exhaust which might be covered under WTY? I know from experience a loose or missing dip stick - oil is going to be all over the place including me. That has happened to me before. Not all the way out but enough it was spraying oil out everywhere.

I too would have though I'd notice 5 qts of oil. But the dipstick is kinda shielded behind the hood. And over the course of 3-4 hours mowing in the field, with the tall brush further hiding the mess....I guess I just missed it.

Doesn't the reman engine company require a core or core charge?

Yes, reman requires a core.

$4800 + $1200 core. And Im gonna have to eat that $1200 for awhile and make a second trip most likely. Because I dont know exactly what all comes on the reman. And what parts I would have to swap if any.

Maybe they can give me more detail so I can only make one trip??

the part that sucks is it seems these engines are all or nothing. Meaning I buy a new or reman COMPLETE engine....or individual parts. No short blocks or long blocks.

Would sure love to find an assembled short block and swap my top end as I dont think any damage was done top side. Just needs a good bath.

The few shops I have found that would do the rebuild, they arent any cheaper than reman because they want to go through and rebuild everything including the fuel system, turbo, etc. Unless I take all that off and take them only a long block. In which case I might as well tear it the rest of the way down and do myself

 

[the old grind]

If you still consider rebuilding your engine call a race car shop to for crankshaft/bearing grind/polish/fit. Several around here are open to all makes and models, vs say just Chevy, Ford, or Chrysler. @ what was said about metal bits being caught by the filter vs getting by a sump pickup screen. Obviously be sure that you rebuild/replace the engine's oil pump. I've had very good luck with 'reman' engines in cars/trucks and with my EZ-GO 22. Rebuilders tend to scrutinize details that might slip by QC on the assembly line. (me 30 yrs at GM from assembly to QC to Toolmaker)

Wherever your oil pressure light's sender is you can probably tee in another line to add a gauge and a beeper. btw, my Terramite came with the ignition cobbed mostly due to having the ignition switch replaced with one lacking an 'M' terminal to ground the coils for Honda GX-620's now-obsolete 'ground to stop' setup. I kept the switch and wired a conventional auto-type relay (normally open and normally closed terminals) to perform the 'stop' function. It was pretty simple to also connect the low oil shutdown switch to the relay, something anyone might connect via the power wire to the injector pump.

Breaks my heart to hear that this happened to you, my good fellow. Here's hoping the right way is also an affordable one.
t o g

 

[Alan W.]

I too would have though I'd notice 5 qts of oil. But the dipstick is kinda shielded behind the hood. And over the course of 3-4 hours mowing in the field, with the tall brush further hiding the mess....I guess I just missed it.



Yes, reman requires a core.

$4800 + $1200 core. And Im gonna have to eat that $1200 for awhile and make a second trip most likely. Because I dont know exactly what all comes on the reman. And what parts I would have to swap if any.

Maybe they can give me more detail so I can only make one trip??

the part that sucks is it seems these engines are all or nothing. Meaning I buy a new or reman COMPLETE engine....or individual parts. No short blocks or long blocks.

Would sure love to find an assembled short block and swap my top end as I dont think any damage was done top side. Just needs a good bath.

The few shops I have found that would do the rebuild, they arent any cheaper than reman because they want to go through and rebuild everything including the fuel system, turbo, etc. Unless I take all that off and take them only a long block. In which case I might as well tear it the rest of the way down and do myself

Found this dont know if it would work or final price.

Pc56-7 Engine Block V243t V243 Cylinder Block - Buy V243 Cylinder Block,Pc56-7 Engine Block,V243 Engine Cylinder Block Product on Alibaba.com