YM3110D Overheating - Time for new radiator?

[kenmac]

use to be a lot of guys here. Many have left. Don't know if they just left the site, or left this world

 

[coosa]

There used to be a lot of dealers posting in this forum. Here's a thread where they discussed operating temperature:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/105515-overheating-information.html


And here's a thread I started, where I posted my temperature and oil pressure observations that seemed normal for my YM240.
To summarize - I apparently lost oil pressure then found only the sender had failed. $6 for a new sender ended the issue.

Temperature - I observed 195 degrees at the top radiator tank and 140 on the bottom of the oil pan.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/156109-low-oil-pressure-no-bad.html

Thanks California, lots of great info in those links.

I am running the 50-50 mix recommended in the manual, but I'll try a 30% mix the next time I work it hard.

The Purple Ice folks had test results that showed their vehicle ran highest temp with a 50-50 mix, and about 5 degrees cooler with their product added. Then plain water was significantly cooler, and the coolest was their product added to water. I don't know if this is legit or not, but they did admit plain water was gonna run cooler than what I am using. I just think it oughta run a 4 foot cutter without having to drain the antifreeze, but maybe I'm expecting too much.

It could be something is clogged, but it ran the same temps when I first got it. I did talk with Fredrick's about it. He warned me that it was possible to overwork one of these little tractors, but I don't think I had bought my thermometer when we talked and I didn't know the actual temps it was running. I have been running it during 95 degree days and I have been in some tall grass at times.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[California]

... I just think it oughta run a 4 foot cutter without having to drain the antifreeze, but maybe I'm expecting too much.

It could be something is clogged, but it ran the same temps when I first got it. I did talk with Fredrick's about it. He warned me that it was possible to overwork one of these little tractors...

4 ft cutter on a 3110??? it should run that effortlessly. Even the little guy in my sig photo below - with half your rated hp - can run that size rotary mower without overheating. Old thread with photos. Best example: Here I stalled and had to go to low range to move forward due to tall grass and uphill. It seemed plenty warm but it didn't trip the warning light or boil over.

Something's not right with your cooling system.

 

[coosa]

California, mine is the 2210d, so only about 25 hp. Still, I think it should run it without issue, and maybe it is. If I had a temp light instead of a gauge I would think all is well.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I had a 1700 for 14 years with the thermosyphon system. All I ever did was run a 5 foot rear finish mower. Most of the time it did fine but on the hottest days it would get a little warm and gurgle a little. Added a water pump and it was OK after that. When I got the tractor I had forgotten that our old Super A Farmall used the same thermosyphon system for cooling and my father later added a water pump to help. Great little tractor. The top of the radiator would be hot and the bottom of it would be cool. I read in some literature that a 30/70 mix was preferred for it. I hope you get your issues worked out. Yanmars are great tractors.

 

[clemsonfor]

Sure! I started out poor and had a number of $100 and under cars during high school and college. Used cardboard in a few cases to make the heater nice and warm. Later and more prosperous, I had a Volvo - around 1963 model, egg-shaped, looked like a '47 ford sedan - that I had admired when they were new and eventually bought used. Those have the equivalent of a roller window shade that pulls up from the bottom edge of the radiator as you pull a cable under the dashboard. That works great for getting the heater working in cold weather.

And when I bought the YM240 15 years ago, I tried cardboard in front of its radiator to warm it up. The owner's manual specifies 5 minutes warmup before moving the tractor and I thought this would help it warm up. I soon decided to ignore that recommendation and just drive gently to the first worksite to warm it up so I haven't used cardboard since. Or ever idled it a full five minutes before starting out.

On a related note - you would think the AMC Eagle, a station wagon with full time 4wd and obviously intended for those who live in snow country, would have competent heat. No. I bought that with some 15k miles on it, nearly new. Both the heat and in summer the A/C, were completely ineffective. Consumer Reports verified what I had observed, they said this model totally failed to meet modern (1980's) expectations for both heating and cooling the interior. A $100 radiator shop cooling system tune up - replace thermostat, flush etc - made no improvement. I used cardboard in that car occasionally, as long as I owned it.

My work truck is a 2016 Ram 1500 . It has louvers in front of the radiator that automatically open or close based on speed and temperature. Even here in the south they are closed more than open when its coldest here in winter, this helps engine temps and aerodynamics of the front of the truck.

 

[clemsonfor]

I blew the head gasket on mine the first time I used it hard. It turned out that the Fredrick's mechanic just didn't do a good job when he machined it. They picked it up and fixed it under warranty, but I suppose that experience has made me paranoid about it.

The highest temp I've measured on the radiator is 188. That is just short of the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge and I've always stopped it when it got to that point. But maybe that isn't really a problem? Perhaps I oughta just run it and not worry about it? Does Yanmar ever say how hot it should run? Some folks on here say it should not get above 160, but I really don't know. My Chevy truck is designed to run 210.

I'm thinking the light goes off at like 215 or 220. I know California and Scotty and a few others have it in memory, i have to look in my ym240 service manual to see.

 

[clemsonfor]

Thanks California, lots of great info in those links.

I am running the 50-50 mix recommended in the manual, but I'll try a 30% mix the next time I work it hard.

The Purple Ice folks had test results that showed their vehicle ran highest temp with a 50-50 mix, and about 5 degrees cooler with their product added. Then plain water was significantly cooler, and the coolest was their product added to water. I don't know if this is legit or not, but they did admit plain water was gonna run cooler than what I am using. I just think it oughta run a 4 foot cutter without having to drain the antifreeze, but maybe I'm expecting too much.

It could be something is clogged, but it ran the same temps when I first got it. I did talk with Fredrick's about it. He warned me that it was possible to overwork one of these little tractors, but I don't think I had bought my thermometer when we talked and I didn't know the actual temps it was running. I have been running it during 95 degree days and I have been in some tall grass at times.

Thanks for all the replies.

You can, but i run a 5ft bush hog behind my ym2000 and it will last longer than i want to (were talking hours at the time here) on the tractor in 95F heat cutting grass that's knee high or taller and so thick in places i have to down shift or take a smaller bite and it still will be rolling coal with the petal all the way down till i get out of that thick spot. I do not over heat.

 

[coosa]

Clemson, do you have a gauge on yours and know how hot it gets? If the light doesn't come on until 220, I may not really have a problem.

I have been running my JD in 95 degree temps today and it never got over 159. It may be that the Yanmar isn't designed to run that cool and will never do it.

 

[kenmac]

looking at my service manual. It states the thermostat should open @160 deg. I have never checked mine for a thermostat. I assume it has one. One day I may check to see.

In the cooling section, it states ''when checking temperature sensor with a circuit tester. (I assume a volt meter) current should flow @ 230 degrees''.

The light comes on @ 230 deg

Light off @ 215 deg

under diagnosing malfunctions in the cooling section it list

engine over heats:

loose fan belt
dirty radiator or fan screen
low coolant
low oil
improper operation
defective head gasket
incorrect timing
faulty thermostat
faulty radiator cap
faulty water pump
corroded coolant passages