YM3110D Overheating - Time for new radiator?

[coosa]

So if the light cuts off at 215, isn't that a pretty strong indication that they don't consider 215 to be overheated?

It sounds like I just need to run mine and not be overly concerned. I am still 25 degrees away from it being overheated. Thanks for all your help.

 

[clemsonfor]

Clemson, do you have a gauge on yours and know how hot it gets? If the light doesn't come on until 220, I may not really have a problem.

I have been running my JD in 95 degree temps today and it never got over 159. It may be that the Yanmar isn't designed to run that cool and will never do it.

No gauge, just the light. But the light works and it has to be pretty plugged up for more than a few minutes to make the light flicker or come on. I clean the fluff prior to a problem.

 

[clemsonfor]

So if the light cuts off at 215, isn't that a pretty strong indication that they don't consider 215 to be overheated?

It sounds like I just need to run mine and not be overly concerned. I am still 25 degrees away from it being overheated. Thanks for all your help.

yea that's what I'm saying i knew the temp was way up there, KenMac has a 3110 but its probably close to the same spec and I'm sure the same temp sender. But i knew the light comes on way hotter than most worry about. 230 sounds right, i was thinking it was in the 220 range so i feel that it is the same on the YM2000. One difference i know is that the YM2000 and ym240 DO NOT have a T stat. So you wont find one of those if you go looking. That's why when its cold it take forever to really warm up.

 

[kenmac]

Mine could be running 228 degrees and i would never know. Because according to the service manual. The light don't come on until 230 deg .
I would say you are in excellent shape @ 215 deg.
Of course, This takes into account these sensors are still in calibration

 

[coosa]

Mine could be running 228 degrees and i would never know. Because according to the service manual. The light don't come on until 230 deg .
I would say you are in excellent shape @ 215 deg.
Of course, This takes into account these sensors are still in calibration

Mine is the 2210db model. I think the b indicates that it has a different grill and has several gauges instead of lights. But there are no numbers on the temp gauge, so I've had to use the laser thermometer to try to figure out what temp each mark means. The center mark is 160 and it appears that the 3/4 mark is 190, so I would guess that all the way over to the red is gonna be about 220. It has never even made it to the 190 mark, so I am gonna assume I am ok and quit worrying about it.

Thanks for all the good info.

 

[CalG]

Run straight water with a loose radiator cap. You will know when the water reaches 212 degrees as it will steam out and spray everywhere ;-)

 

[normde2001]

So if the light cuts off at 215, isn't that a pretty strong indication that they don't consider 215 to be overheated?

It sounds like I just need to run mine and not be overly concerned. I am still 25 degrees away from it being overheated. Thanks for all your help.

If the temp rises from harder use or higher ambient temps, you still have a problem.

 

[normde2001]

Mine is the 2210db model. I think the b indicates that it has a different grill and has several gauges instead of lights. But there are no numbers on the temp gauge, so I've had to use the laser thermometer to try to figure out what temp each mark means. The center mark is 160 and it appears that the 3/4 mark is 190, so I would guess that all the way over to the red is gonna be about 220. It has never even made it to the 190 mark, so I am gonna assume I am ok and quit worrying about it.

Thanks for all the good info.

My YM2000B, same gauge, never gets off the 1/4 mark until the radiator screen begins to clog with chaff, no matter how hard I work it. or ambient temps. Been working that way for 17 years.

 

[California]

Run straight water with a loose radiator cap. You will know when the water reaches 212 degrees as it will steam out and spray everywhere ;-)

I see the ;-), Sure, use that to calibrate the gauge!

But really, I think back in the 70's when these were designed, some owners filled them with ditch water for the few weeks of tilling/planting instead of running coolant year round. And the designers anticipated this. According to this chart the theoretical boiling point of plain water with a 13 psi cap will be around 240 degrees. Running 33 or 50% antifreeze allows another 10 - 15 degrees before boilover.

Now the question is, should we ignore obvious heat until a boilover-warning light comes on? The gauge pinned on a later model can be interpreted as abuse, but how hot is within what the designers intended for normal use?

 

[kenmac]

Mine is the 2210db model. I think the b indicates that it has a different grill and has several gauges instead of lights. But there are no numbers on the temp gauge, so I've had to use the laser thermometer to try to figure out what temp each mark means. The center mark is 160 and it appears that the 3/4 mark is 190, so I would guess that all the way over to the red is gonna be about 220. It has never even made it to the 190 mark, so I am gonna assume I am ok and quit worrying about it.

Thanks for all the good info.

Is this thermostat a liquid filled bulb type, that when the water gets hot, a liquid within the thermostat bulb expands/contracts and moves the gauge ?