Blew up Kubota motor

[TractorGuy]

the part that sucks is it seems these engines are all or nothing. Meaning I buy a new or reman COMPLETE engine....or individual parts. No short blocks or long blocks.

Would sure love to find an assembled short block and swap my top end as I dont think any damage was done top side. Just needs a good bath.

The few shops I have found that would do the rebuild, they arent any cheaper than reman because they want to go through and rebuild everything including the fuel system, turbo, etc. Unless I take all that off and take them only a long block. In which case I might as well tear it the rest of the way down and do myself

I thought you wanted it that way? No way to know how much metal got where and all. Only way to offer a warranty is to supply all or nothing.

 

[LD1]

Anyone got a line on a late model tractor junkyard?

After tearing everything apart, the block isnt salvageable. The balance shafts have bearings like a cam. One spun in a bore and no one offers any oversized bearings and the kubota engine rebuilders I have talked to say that block is shot.

And even if block was good, tallying the damage....
Fuel camshaft needs replaced
One balance shaft,
one piston
oil pump
one rod
all the gaskets and seals
machine work that needs done...

EVEN IF the block were good I'd be knocking on $3500-$4000 rebuild.

A reconditioned engine by a kubota authorized/certified place is $4800 + $1200 core.
I was informed that due to the block being a waste...thats $600 off core, and the rod another $100.

So Id only see a $500 core back.

So my options at the moment....

#1....$5500 + tax (~$5900) for a reconditioned motor with 1 year unlimited hour warranty. But I'd have to re-use my starter, alternator, TURBO, bell housing adaptor, etc etc. And surrender all my core parts that I dont use.

#2....$6800 + $100 freight + ~$500 tax = (~$7400) for a brand new engine from dealer with warranty. New turbo and manifolds. but still re-use my alternator, starter, flywheel, clutch, etc. And would have to surrender block only (which is junk) to be destroyed. But could probably re-coupe some money selling spare parts on ebay.

#3. $6500 + $300 = (~$6800) freight for a BRAND new complete motor out of indiana. No warranty but Brand new and guarenteed to run. This is complete with alternator, starter, flywheel, turbo, etc etc. Dont have to surrender anything. So its $600 less than dealer and Would give a few more parts for spares to hold onto or sell on ebay like the starter, alternator, flywheel, and a few other things that dont come on a new one from the dealer, all for giving up a 1-year warranty.

So does anyone know of any other options, or tractor salvage yards that might have one? I have called all I can find. At this point I am out of options. Leaning torward option #3. New is new, and more spare parts. And with a junk block eating my core credit, just not enough of a savings to go re-conditioned.

Will see if anyone has any suggestions but probably gonna call and order the engine monday morning so I'll have it by next weekend.

 

[aczlan]

Wenger's of Meyerstown might have something.

Aaron Z

 

[LD1]

Wenger's of Meyerstown might have something.

Aaron Z

Called them already. As well as the western Kentucky place

 

[CalG]

Option 3 is looking attractive.

Who are they, and how do they do it?

 

[LD1]

He said they but overstock new engines. They aren't a dealer. Thus the no warranty part. And since it's a tier 3 engine, overstock makes sense. Still not a huge deal (cost wise). $6495 when a new one from dealer is $6835. But the whole outta state and tax thing, and the fact that it comes with starter and alternator.

It was probably a package engine destined to run a compressor, or generator somewhere, at some mfg, then teir 4 hit......the rest is history

 

[thepumpguysc]

Engine Power Source in NC..!!!

 

[Alan W.]

LD1 was the short block that alibaba had not an option

 

[not2old]

Sorry for your loss!

Might consider adding low oil pressure protection. Should be as simple as routing the fuel cut off solenoid power through an oil pressure switch. That might increase your start up time as it would have to see oil pressure to close the connection.

I'm not sure how they work, but it might not start without the fuel pump working. On a gas engine, I'd wire up a push button switch in parallel with the oil pressure switch that you would have to keep pushed until the pressure was up.

 

[Rustyiron]

Anyone got a line on a late model tractor junkyard?


Will see if anyone has any suggestions but probably gonna call and order the engine monday morning so I'll have it by next weekend.

LD, real sorry for your luck. It might be worth a call to Messicks Parts, There are a few compact tractor & skid loader salvage yards I see advertised in Lancaster Farming (along with Messicks) and they may have a similar lead as your dealer gave you. Of course it will be in PA but if your lucky that's not that bad of a road trip. The Amish/Mennonite deal with a lot of small diesels for their pneumatic & hydraulic requirements (non electric).
I'll have to wait for Tues or so for my next issue. Good luck.