Blew up Kubota motor

[ovrszd]

My brother just put a motor with 300 hours for $2000 in my BX2660; found a guy who ships containers of engines. I would have been too worried about quality, but he's a mechanic and asked enough questions to trust them. He checked it out before installation, so time will tell.

Someone, not me ran it too hot too long and seized it. He added an auto high temp shutdown on the new one.

My wife being the good woman she is always wants to help. She's absolutely non-mechanical. She's been mowing at the home place this Summer since I've been busy with the build project at the farm. Twice I've got on the JD after she's mowed to find it in 4wd..... I lectured her about keeping the radiator screens clean. JD has a great system. So good that the outside screens will get completely covered with lint. When it was hot/dry I told her to stop three times and clean the screens. The JD has a tiny "heat" light that no operator would ever notice. So far we've escaped what you experienced.

 

[ruffdog]

I checked around my area for any engines...none. I would be leaning towards a new engine so I could sleep better at night.

 

[LD1]

I have a good V1903 Kubota diesel, not sure that it would work for you or not?
It's 4 cylinder about 40 hp...

SR

Probably more work to adapt than I got time for. And dropping to a 40 hp engine, trying to power a HST and a 8' mower probably isn't desirable.

Now if I had that 2wd mx I'd certainly explore other power options to replace the engine I would pull out of it.

Like maybe a SBC. Anyone say funk v8 Kubota

 

[def38]

When I bought my used M-F 231S, the electrics were not working. Lights and blinkers were non-functional and the engine start lockouts were shorted. Also, the alternator and oil pressure lamps (idiot lights as they are often referred to) were intermittent...the alternator lamp would glow dimly with the engine running and the oil pressure lamp would illuminate only intermittently at key on. Most tractors have relatively simple electrical systems so with an accurate wiring diagram and a VOM, troubleshooting is straightforward and repairs can be made. My M-F had simply been neglected and shortcuts had been taken.

I soon found out that the alternator output was weak. A simple voltage measurement at the battery posts revealed low alternator output. So, I connected a charger to the battery after each use of the tractor (batteries are expensive and routine charging can add years to their life) and an alternator rebuild was scheduled. As for the oil pressure lamp, a simple loose connection at the oil pressure switch was discovered and corrected.

Remember, your oil and alternator lights should come full on at key on before you spin the starter. If you don't see full on idiot lights, don't start the engine. Also, a simple tee and cheap oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure switch is cheap and can keep tabs on oil pressure if you feel the need for an actual oil pressure reading. Me? I'll rely on the idiot lights to keep the engine from oil starvation or a broken alternator belt and eventual overheat.

Now the fuel gauge? I never neglect that reading...running out of diesel fuel is unnecessary and inconvenient.

 

[jdom84]

Had a bad day.

Apparently my oil pressure light is burnt out and I never paid attention.

Just changed oil about 5 hours ago so didn't even think to check. Last mowing job must have had a stick dislodge the oil dipstick. Was 4-5 qts low. Spun front end bearing. Damage done. Lesson learned..(always make sure dash lights work) why we cannot have fail safes in place to shut an engine down when low oil, or no oil pressure is beyond me. A $500 pressure washer has this feature, but not a $20-$30k tractor?

Anyways, tractor is split, engine pulled.

Where is the best place to buy a new or rebuilt engine? Don't really have the time or ambition to want to disassemble and rebuild myself. Would rather just bite the bullet and get back up an operational.

Not really any local shops I would trust.

really sucks that your engine went.... i feel for ya.

I know its to late now but you could use a relay wired between your fuel solenoid and dummy light to energize. you need the type that has a coil and 3 poles, 1 common and while at rest its shorted on one pole and open on the other. when dummy light comes on. it breaks the connection shutting down the fuel... use the other pole to set off a LOUD buzzer. simple 10 cent part and some wires...

Think i might just do this because the dipstick in my tractor already falls out all the time... had to rig it to stay in just at normal operations

 

[TripleR]

My wife being the good woman she is always wants to help. She's absolutely non-mechanical. She's been mowing at the home place this Summer since I've been busy with the build project at the farm. Twice I've got on the JD after she's mowed to find it in 4wd..... I lectured her about keeping the radiator screens clean. JD has a great system. So good that the outside screens will get completely covered with lint. When it was hot/dry I told her to stop three times and clean the screens. The JD has a tiny "heat" light that no operator would ever notice. So far we've escaped what you experienced.

Luckily for me, my wife is comfortable around equipment and took over yard maintenance when she retired and checks fluids, greases everything. Now a couple of our grown progeny from the city...

 

[lt190b]

LD1 Have you looked over at OrangeTractorTalk?

 

[ovrszd]

Luckily for me, my wife is comfortable around equipment and took over yard maintenance when she retired and checks fluids, greases everything. Now a couple of our grown progeny from the city...

Hard to not love a woman with a chainsaw in her hand.

 

[ray66v]

Sorry that happened.

When starting an engine after an oil change, it's a good practice to watch for the oil light to come on momentarily, and then go out. This will verify the oil pressure warning light circuit is working properly.

 

[ruffdog]

Sorry that happened.

When starting an engine after an oil change, it's a good practice to watch for the oil light to come on momentarily, and then go out. This will verify the oil pressure warning light circuit is working properly.

That is also my habit. All the years of rebuilding or replacing engines, the one thing to look for is oil pressure.